Summer Storage Tips

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00-SRX-700

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Jan 15, 2007
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41
Location
Allenford, Ontario
Well its almost that time of the year agian, and I was wondering if anyone had any good summer storage tips like running the fuel tank dry, spraying oil down the cylinders etc. ???
 

i just emty out my Gas, Shine the sled up, put the cover on it and store it.

During the summer start her a few times to get her to burn out all the oil and gas for about 5 minutes or so
 
How about disconnecting the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump OR installing a TEE inline and SUCKING AUTOMATIC transmission fluid through the fuel pump, into the carbs, until it begins to burn in place of the gasoline and stalls the engine... Your motor is FOGGED, your whole fuel system IS BEING cleaned AND KEPT full of atf ALL SUMMER, and your powervalves will also be covered in TRANS FLUID with the detergents EATING AWAY at the CARBON DEPOSITS ALL SUMMER!!!!. You will have to drain the carbs and push NEW FUEL through the fuel pump and lines when you get ready NEXT WINTER,,,BUT,,, You will NEVER have to take your carbs apart for cleaning and PROBABLY NEVER HAVE to take apart your POWERVALVES AGAIN!!!! ATF has some REALLY GOOD detergents in it!!!! Did you ever see a trans leak on an automobile???? The area that its leaking is REALLY CLEAN!!!! Clean like BRAND NEW!!! Isn't it????? Gary Oles nosboy
 
Your WHOLE MOTOR will be cleaned out.. The only drawback,,, is,,,, WHEN you restart the sled in the fall,,, YOU WILL SMOKE UP the NEIGHBORHOOD!!!! Don"t do it in the SUMMERTIME or FALL when NEIGHBORS windows are open, you MAY have some PISSED OFF NEIGHBORS!!!!
 
ONE BYPRODUCT of combustion is WATER... By running your sled for 5 minutes in the summertime, you've just collected enough WATER to let sit in the pipes to RUST BIG HOLES in your exhaust system... Another GREAT IDEA is the AUTOMOTIVE guys STARTING and letting run for 5 minutes their $40,000.00 VINTAGE MUSCLE CAR!!!! PLEASE READ VERY CAREFULLY......... UNLESS your car OR SLED reaches NORMAL OPERATING temperatures... (gearbox, trans,etc,etc,etc), you are producing WATER,,, the WATER WILL prematurely DESTROY your CYLINDERS,,, BEARINGS,,,, GEARS,,,,,CHAINS,,,,,, SHAFTS,,,,,, ANYTHING STEEL inside your engine... The CONSTANTLY CHANGING TEMPERATURES will ACTUALLY produce CONDENSATION inside your engine on a DAILY BASIS!!!!! the STARTING YOUR SLED or CAR up ONCE A MONTH IS UTTERLY INSANE!!!!! There are SO MANY people out there that were told BY AN IDIOT to "start it up once a month" that its AMAZING!!!!!! FOGGING your motor is a MUST!!!! (unless you have an controlled enviornment that you keep your sleds in)... FOGGING oil will work fine... AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID is the ABSOLUTE BEST way to store your motor!!!!!!
 
Well said Nosboy, I completely agree with you 100% starting them up every month or 2 weeks or whatever is a completely bad idea, my buddy screwed his engine up pretty bad doing exactly that. Fogging is by far the best idea.... And the tranny fluid trick sounds pretty nifty, i might give that a try when i go to put mine away this summer
 
I'm gonna try it the ATF way. Nosboy made a few posts about it before and I had already forgot about it. I'm off to the gas station to pick up some ATF.
 
fogging

I guess I'll get burned eventually by starting up sleds every couple months but right now I'll stick with what has worked for me for 17 years, 5 snowmobiles, and over 30K miles on the sleds in total.
I have them on a track stand, let them warm up for 5-10 mins, then run them at high rpms, back them down, high rpms again, etc. I also store them indoors in a well ventilated area.

For my ski-doo friends who faithfully fog, they havent been so lucky................
 
I suppose,,, OTIS,,, you could have went with synthetic oil and only have went through 2 sleds with the same 30,000 mile trip... I understand that OLD HABITS DIE HARD,,, but,,,, the guys who came up with the "start it up once a month" WEREN'T very educated in the field!!!! Maybe the CORNFIELD,,, But NOT the snowmobile or AUTOMOTIVE field... There are STILL people who use GEARLUBE in their chaincases and people who still pay $20.00 a gallon for YAMALUBE!!!!!! Maybe running them at HIGH RPM'S will help with the EVACUATION of the PUDDLES of water created by combustion,,,but,,, I suggest you try the TRANS FLUID trick!!!! Its a LITTLE MESSY and it takes a little longer,,,but,,, you could install a TEE in the fuel line and KEEP THE TEE in there all the time.. if your friend runs LOW or OUT of fuel,,,you could just WHIP OUT your tee(hose) and push a gallon or two of fuel to SAVE THE DAY!!!! The ATF TRICKis MESSY and you get ATF all over the place when you try and restart/drain the carbs in the fall,,,but,,,, the ATF really CLEANS THE HECK out of EVERYTHING in its path,,,,,, COMBUSTION CHAMBERS,,,,PISTON DOMES,,,,TOPS,,,,, TRANSFER PORTS,,,,, BOTTOM ENDS,,,,, KEEPS CRANK SEALS NICE AND LUBRICATED,,,, CLEANS the inside of your PIPES!!!! It MAKES A MESS and you'd better NOT start it up on ANY SURFACE that you DONT WANT STAINED.. You will have BLACK SHIT all over the ground.. its a GREAT IDEA to get a bunch of pieces of CARDBOARD and start it up on the cardboard!!!! ALSO TRY AND PICK A WINDY day when you go to restart.... BELIEVE ME,, The neighbors think MY GARAGE is on FIRE!!!!!! It is a little time consuming,,,,but,,, you will NEVER EVER have to clean a PILOT JET EVER AGAIN in your LIFE!!!!! (or take apart a float bowl again) PROBABLY NEVER have to take apart your powervalves EITHER!!!!! Don't wait till you RUST UP A 1000.00 worth of parts before you get a QUART of ATF and a 5/16 plastic (or nylon) tee and a piece of 5/16 CLEAR TUBING!!! the WHOLE THING costs you about 10.00 (TEN DOLLARS) not a THOUSAND!!!!! I do NOT recommend SYNTHETIC TRANSMISSION FLUID because the CHEAP STUFF WORKS BETTER!!!! This is an OLD TRICK that has been around for a ZILLION YEARS... THEY used to use it (and STILL DO) to store stuff INDEFINATELY!!!!! if you want to store an OLD HEMI for a DOZEN YEARS,, you would buy a couple of CASES of ATF and FILL the motor up to the TOP!!!! ( a couple of CASES will do)..... Come back 20 years LATER and it will be FRESH AS A DAISY!!!!! A FEW HOURS OF PREP TIME and you can START it up and it will run LIKE BRAND NEW!!!! (ATF has only been around for the last 50 years!!!!!) Gary Oles nosboy
 
What if you drained your fuel tank to almost dry but not all the way, and dumped in a couple litres of atf and ran it till it quit, then filled the tank so no condensation gets in there?
 
how to

if i were to take the hose off my gas shut off and submerge it in a can of trani fluid and run it would that work?and how many minutes do you want to run it on the atf fluid?
 
I don't know IF the fuel pump would pick the trans fluid up and suck it through the system????? It probably would!!!! You want to run it as long as you can with the trans fluid. The sled is NOT GOING to run very well at all (that's the idea of FOGGING) and when she starts to die out,,, you want to try and run the sled around 4500rpm's and try and KEEP IT THERE while she is trying to die out... Your thumb, trying to feed her more fuel,, is actually doing the right thing to FOG the motor and get the ATF through the entire motor!!! I SUGGEST RUNNING your sled for 5 to 10 minutes to get the motor HOT... GETTING THE MOTOR HOT before you try and fog it, actually works BETTER than trying to fog a cold motor!!!! REMEMBER,,,a BYPRODUCT of combustion is WATER!!! MOISTURE is all throughout your motor UNTIL your motor reaches OPERATING TEMPERATURE!!! Then,,,hopefully,,,,it turns to a vapor and leaves the inside of your motor!!! Fogging a COLD motor will work also,,,but,,,not as good!!!!!
 
When I said that a byproduct of combustion was WATER,, KEEP IN MIND the guys who start their muscle cars up ONCE A MONTH and let them run for 5 or 10 minutes in the garage.. the MOISTURE CREATED by running and the "beer can effect" condensation created by running actually DESTROYS their WHOLE CAR!!! the WORST THING you could POSSIBLY do is to START the car (or even the sled in the summertime) and let it run for 5 or 10 minutes!!! 10 minutes will actually be better for it than 5 minutes!!! STILL,,, leaving the car ON THE RUBBER tires in 1 spot for 6 months is a DUMB IDEA in the first place!!! JACK IT UP (that goes for sleds too) and get the weight OFF THE suspension and OFF THE TRACK!!!
 
Summer storage issues

I have had two issues with mice and storing my sleds over the years. The first one was with a mouse that decided to crawl up the exhaust system to the clutch side cylinder and store dried corn on my ’96 VMax. I don’t start my sleds in the summer because of the condensation issue Nosboy mentioned in earlier posts so when it came to fire the ol’ girl up that fall I very suddenly found the problem on the first pull. I thought the fuel had leaded through the carb and hydraulicly locked the cylinder. It was quite a surprise when I started to take the exhaust off to check the cylinder and had nothing but corn spilling out. The other issue I had was with my ’99 SX 600, the damn mouse crawled into the silencer and built a nest that totally plugged the exhaust system to the point that I couldn’t even get the sled started until I got the silencer cleaned out. So, I now use a tennis ball and ram it into the exhaust port of the silencer to keep those pesky little buggers out. I also use Bounce drier sheet in and around the sleds because they hate them and keep away from them.

Mills
 
marty, the atf will go through the system!!! You want to put the bottle of atf HIGHER than the carbs and let it suck through the fuel system.. The fuel pump, carbs, and whole engine will benefit!!!!
 
removing moisture

I plan on trying this product in my shed and will put one under the hood. Under $10.00 Used a lot in RV's and Boats.

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm?skunum=4735&src=SCG

Dri-Z-Air dehumidifier products help prevent condensation, mold and mildew from forming in areas that may be susceptible to dampness and moisture, such as items in storage or your window sills. Dri-Z-Air proactively removes excess moisture from the air and protects your belongings from damage caused by moisture. The crystals in the Dri-Z-Air dehumidifier container do the magic of absorbing the moisture from the air easily, quietly and conveniently.

How it works
Air is drawn around the basket which contain crystals that absorb moisture which is deposited into the bucket below the basket. The process happens naturally and continuously with little need to monitor the unit while it is working.

1 13-oz. bag of refill Crystals included with Unit.
Why do I need to control moisture?
Moisture that continues to collect in an environment leads to mold and mildew problems.
 
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