bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
maybe I'll put a hold on those HC for I don't want a problem tuning all riding season.Could try 8BU's.
Skidooslayer687
Member
The main reason i like the heelclickers so much is that there easily adjusted for the different types of riding your doing. I had the stock weights on my machine and now have the heelclickers. Even though they still aren't set up perfect (LOL nearly but now i need to wait for next year for snow to try the new helix) they still seem to pull a lot harder out of the hole then the stock weights... Thats MO anyways other guys on here do not like the heelclickers at all.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
good to hear slayer.I am debating if it is a good choice for me.I am tired of banging out rivets all the time.Some of the set-ups I have read about is:
HC 40-10yb
4-5g in heel
5-6g in tip
50/40 Dalton or 51/38
Green Spring at 70
Red Primary spring.
What do you have exactly in yours.
HC 40-10yb
4-5g in heel
5-6g in tip
50/40 Dalton or 51/38
Green Spring at 70
Red Primary spring.
What do you have exactly in yours.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
THAT RIGHT THERE WILL BUT YA REAL CLOSE. 3:16 (yammie tony)
pro116
Lifetime VIP Member
blue with the set up you won't have to do much tuning
Exciterfan
Member
I can't see reeds adding much HP, BUT the carbon techs did make my throttle response much crisper (much better than stock).
That said, I have a few friends who have had great sucess with VForce reeds and swear by them.
That said, I have a few friends who have had great sucess with VForce reeds and swear by them.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
still would like to know which track to buy.Still thinking of the 1.25 ripsaw.Have one on my SXR,and love it.For the SRX you want hood hookup and a lot of guys are using 1'' Predator or 1" Hacksaw.I won't be racing as a full time job,but still want an all around decent track.Not going to use studs either,so maybe the 1.25 Ripsaw would be my best choice.
fourbarrel
VIP Lifetime Member
Yea I'd say from everything I've seen and read about the Ripsaw plus I've tried out a few sleds that have them on,and they work excellent,it would be the one to go with especially where you state you dont plan to stud it.
I have a Hacksaw on my MXZ and I loved it. It hooks very well in hard packed and pretty descent in snow. Its very light and works great. I think if you are not playing that much in the deep snow and more on the hard packed, this track is defenitly the one to get. But if you are going in deep snow get the Ripsaw. Now for top end you are looking probably around the 2 to 4 mph faster with the Hacksaw on hard packed.
Skidooslayer687
Member
for my weights in my hc's im running i think its 4.8 in the heel and 5 in the tip, that was with the stock helix though, havn't been able to tune it for the new helix cuz now theres no snow, gotta wait till next year for that
03viperguy
Moderator
I say ripsaw and mono. when I did both I seem to be just as fast if not a tad faster than stock. I lost nothing but backpain and @14lbs with my mono install. go mono, its real easy and a great trail skid
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
it's going to hard to find a mono 06 and whatis the price on one,pretty expensive I guess.Would love to try one.How did you find yous 03viperguy.
pro116
Lifetime VIP Member
they been going 500-800.00us mostly
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
that will make it over $1000 here then.Would be nice to find a wrecked sled with one,but the skid could be wrecked to then.
03viperguy
Moderator
got mine from Boomer on here, for $850 shipped. no top end loss though, and a ride near that of an m-10 for a LOT less just keep an eye out, you will find one. more and more of them for cheaper as they begin to age too!
jr_amsoil
New member
i got simmons skis love them
heel clickers work great you'll like em
put a 1.25'' predator on my sled also and it made a world of difference in traction.
heel clickers work great you'll like em
put a 1.25'' predator on my sled also and it made a world of difference in traction.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
So the impression I am getting from you guys is go with the Heelclickers and the Simmon's Ski's.Then go with the 1.25 Ripsaw or 1.25 Predator 6 PITCH
track.I do most of my riding on a hard packed surface or on a well travelled trail.But once in a while will wander off.So is the Predator better then the Ripsaw then.Was told that the 1 " Predator is a fast track also.Some on here have mentioned they use the 1.25 Ripsaw and still hit good top end speeds.I have to order my track befor April 1 to get a 25% sale price,so really need to get a few more opinions please.
track.I do most of my riding on a hard packed surface or on a well travelled trail.But once in a while will wander off.So is the Predator better then the Ripsaw then.Was told that the 1 " Predator is a fast track also.Some on here have mentioned they use the 1.25 Ripsaw and still hit good top end speeds.I have to order my track befor April 1 to get a 25% sale price,so really need to get a few more opinions please.
03viperguy
Moderator
if you do mostly on trail riding I would say the ripsaw would be your track
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
How would you rate the 1.25 Ripsaw over the 1.25 Predator (6 pitch)???????
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Take a look at this:
Rip Saw Top Speed
Dear Ralph:
I ordered a new Yamaha Apex GT and it comes standard with the Camoplast Rip Saw track. I recall you had extensive experience with this new track design, and was wondering about top-end speed with this track. I only ride hard packed groomed trails in Northern Ontario. Compared to a 1” track, is there a significant difference in top end speed? I’m going to stud the track with 96 studs, so would there be any significant difference between a 1” track with 96 studs and the Rip Saw with 96 studs? Any detailed information would be greatly appreciated.
Andy Leblanc
Ontario, Canada
The main factors in top end difference between tracks would be weight, wind resistance and rolling resistance. Back when 1.25” lug height tracks first came out there was more of a top end difference as older design 1.25” tracks had fuller lugs, or more of the lugs actually at 1.25” height. The Rip Saw uses the latest track construction technology so it rolls easily, is super-light and doesn’t have the wind resistance of a full-bar lug pattern of previous 1.25” tracks.
So, with the Rip Saw there should be no significant difference in top end. In fact, the Rip Saw will actually be faster when compared to most any 1” track. About the only 1” tracks that might be a mph or two faster would be a brand new design like the Camoplast Hacksaw, or maybe the 1” conical lug track that has proven to be so very fast on top end. Other 1” tracks are heavier, balloon (stretch) more and consume more power to spin them than the new-technology Rip Saw.
When we add studs to the formula, it could be argued a 1” track allows the use of shorter studs, thus less rotating mass, and this will affect top end. Again, you could also stud a Hacksaw or conical lug track and see a slight difference. If maintaining top speed AND having traction devices is paramount for you, one option would be to install one of the Ice Ripper pre-studded tracks that is a Rip Saw with 256 lug studs installed that is said to only weigh about one pound more than your stock track. I doubt you’d have any trouble finding a buyer for the track you’d be taking out!
Rip Saw Top Speed
Dear Ralph:
I ordered a new Yamaha Apex GT and it comes standard with the Camoplast Rip Saw track. I recall you had extensive experience with this new track design, and was wondering about top-end speed with this track. I only ride hard packed groomed trails in Northern Ontario. Compared to a 1” track, is there a significant difference in top end speed? I’m going to stud the track with 96 studs, so would there be any significant difference between a 1” track with 96 studs and the Rip Saw with 96 studs? Any detailed information would be greatly appreciated.
Andy Leblanc
Ontario, Canada
The main factors in top end difference between tracks would be weight, wind resistance and rolling resistance. Back when 1.25” lug height tracks first came out there was more of a top end difference as older design 1.25” tracks had fuller lugs, or more of the lugs actually at 1.25” height. The Rip Saw uses the latest track construction technology so it rolls easily, is super-light and doesn’t have the wind resistance of a full-bar lug pattern of previous 1.25” tracks.
So, with the Rip Saw there should be no significant difference in top end. In fact, the Rip Saw will actually be faster when compared to most any 1” track. About the only 1” tracks that might be a mph or two faster would be a brand new design like the Camoplast Hacksaw, or maybe the 1” conical lug track that has proven to be so very fast on top end. Other 1” tracks are heavier, balloon (stretch) more and consume more power to spin them than the new-technology Rip Saw.
When we add studs to the formula, it could be argued a 1” track allows the use of shorter studs, thus less rotating mass, and this will affect top end. Again, you could also stud a Hacksaw or conical lug track and see a slight difference. If maintaining top speed AND having traction devices is paramount for you, one option would be to install one of the Ice Ripper pre-studded tracks that is a Rip Saw with 256 lug studs installed that is said to only weigh about one pound more than your stock track. I doubt you’d have any trouble finding a buyer for the track you’d be taking out!