PUt weight where on heelclicker?

Sounds almost like I have to put on 3.3 grams in the middle to keep the rpms down.
 

7 grams tip, you may have to slightly face the bolt head to clear the spider,(common) just leave enuff left to get the allen wrench in the bolt.

back off the secondary spring tension

you can always go to a red secondary spring as well, as long as it doesnt suck the belt on take off, the softer secondary spring will yield even higher topend speed numbers.

dont run any weight in the middle hole, it will only slow down the reaction of the engine and slow the sled down.
 
Thanks, will try 2 non lock washers and one lock washer first, because the non lock washer is even so slighly thinner. Heck, maybe even 3 non lock washers?
I just have to get them first. I don't think I will go to a red secondary spring, with the riding I do, it will suck it in bigtime. I guess the next thing is to get a gram scale, getting a bit un accurate with all this facing/grinding.
 
I got a gram scale now. I weighed what I had in there. 5,0 to 5,1 grams in heel and 6,2 in tip. Still the sled was revving to like 8800 with ease. I prefer to run the green spring at at least 70 degrees, because I "feel" that if I go softer than that the sled loses responsiveness. I also had one tooth smaller top gear at that time. Would this be enough to cause a high rpm situation?
Also I noticed that the clutch buttons on the secondary were worn beyond the limit. Will this cause higher rpm?

I also have a question about the facing the bolt bit. I tried that too, but with the side to side play of the weight (yes the hc washers on each side are installed), it was possible in theory that the bolt head would contact the spider pocket. This was true for all combinations heavier than the 4 gram and 2 lock washers combination. If I had 3 in there, grinding the whole head of the bolt would still not help, it would contact the spider pocket if you took the end of the weight and pushed it lightly in the direction of the spider pocket. For now I will only run combinations that will not allow the bolt head to contact the spider pocket even if you take the weight and push it against the spider pocket wall. This is why I am looking for a nut to fit the hc bolts, see another post (Sorry that I made another post just about the bolt and nut.

Thanks
 
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gearing a sled down REMOVES load from the engine, allowing it to use more clutch weight to be at a specific rpm, so you answered your own question. By having the sled geared down your going to need more weight to keep at a specific rpm, the load is less on the engine and thus requires more weight. I would gear the sled up(larger top sprocket), you will load the engine more and it will be faster, the srx likes to be overloaded and tractor its way up in the rpm range, they are consistantly faster this way. The engine rpms will respond by dropping and allowing you to run the weight you already have. Gearing up also keeps the belt in a better ratio in the primary clutch, a belt radius that is close to the same for the front and rear clutch is where youll have a cool efficent running clutch and the sled will be fast.

Worn secondary cam buttons can cause high rpms as the clutch doesnt smoothly slide and has extra friction on the ramps of the helix, you can also blow a belt with those.

You can place a nut on the opposite side of the bolt head, some spiders are closer then others so double check all clearances. Usually the thread will stick beyond the other side of the weight with the long bolt and 1 or 2 washers, allowing you to place a thin nut on it, but beware that the nut does not interfere with the roller or the inside of the spider. blue loktite is a must on this hardware.
 
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Your gonna have to add some weight to the inner hole. Don,t be scared to do this cus I have had some very good running SRX,s running weight in all the holes. Ur maxxed out & need some inside weight. Won,t hurt to put some there to get rpm,s in the sweet spot.
 
Thanks both of you. Especially the info about the worn buttons. Apprechiate!
Tractor loading the clutch tends to activate the dcs on my sled. Do you think replacing the piston rings will make the dcs blink less? (It has 7000 km on it now)
Thanks
 
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run bigger jets, better octane fuel or add octane booster to gas then.
 
I run 151 and 150 and 150 at the lowest elevation, the best fuel avaiable and the octane booster didn't help a squat. Will the new piston rings reduce the dcs blinking because of better sealing or something? Thanks
 
place both shims under the clip with the metal clip in the number 3 groove. the needle shimmed up will richen it in the 1/2- wide open section of fuel curve as it lifts the needle up further out of the main jet.

what octane is your gas? must be very low if you added octane booster and still have the light.

rings have nothing to do with it.
 
The needle position is like that now. My gas is 98 octane research, which according to the sticker on the dash is a little better than your 91, which is stated as 97 research.
However I've discovered that clutching plays a significant role whether it blinks or not, too.
 
Running higher octane than recommend from the factory really isnt doing you any justice, besides more $$$ and possibly less performance. The reason why is Yamaha did not design the motor/jetting for that high of octane. But even still I dont think your light should be blinking with higher octane. But I'm no motor expert like the guys above, so listen to what they have to say. You sure your not reading them numbers backwards "89"?
 
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Junior said:
guys the european and north american octane systems are not the same. You can't compare the numbers.
Click to expand...


Thats news to me...... So my next questions is, since his SRX that he owns was built for "91" North American octane then how would you know what octane to run in Europe? Is there some kinda conversion you can do?
 
the worry in my mind is that there's water contamination in the fuel there, or that the gas station owner isn't actually putting the correct fuel in that tank, or he's cutting it. Reality is that you're pretty isolated and there's not a lot of vehicles in your area that are running that fuel, high probability that it's stale if it's not contaminated.

octane boost bottles will only raise your octane less than a point, so you're not likely to make much difference with them. Given the length of time that you've been chasing the problem, I would consider running a batch of aviation fuel thru it and seeing how it responds, if the dcs shuts up, then atleast you know what the problem was.
 
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