bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Got the jackshaft bearing off the jackshaft with a puller for the SRX.Now how in hell is the best way to get the new bearing back on without recking it.It is a tight fit.
And what is the proper procedure to drain all the antifreeze from the engine and lines without making a mess everywhere.I siphoned the reservoir empty,took out the carbs and drained the 2 lines there.Do I have to lift the sled's back end and open the bleeder.Then somewhere under the exhaust manifolds there must be a drain,but antifreeze will spill out all the the bellypan and floor.Who's got the cleanest method to do this.
And what is the proper procedure to drain all the antifreeze from the engine and lines without making a mess everywhere.I siphoned the reservoir empty,took out the carbs and drained the 2 lines there.Do I have to lift the sled's back end and open the bleeder.Then somewhere under the exhaust manifolds there must be a drain,but antifreeze will spill out all the the bellypan and floor.Who's got the cleanest method to do this.
redsnake3
New member
jackshaft as in the secondary clutch shaft? the bearing behind the secondary should be collared and have to set screws like the drive shaft bearing.
there is a antifreeze drain plug on the water pump cover. it is one of the cap screws that hold the water pump cover on and is one of the top right cap screws when looking at the sled from the front, it will basically fall through all the holes in the bulkhead/bellypan so a mess is almost inevitable without other precautions.
there is a antifreeze drain plug on the water pump cover. it is one of the cap screws that hold the water pump cover on and is one of the top right cap screws when looking at the sled from the front, it will basically fall through all the holes in the bulkhead/bellypan so a mess is almost inevitable without other precautions.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
redsnake.I got that bearing off already,but to get it back on,how do you tap it back along the shaft to it's position.Bearing is a tight fit,don't want to use a hammer on it directly.I guess I will look for a piece of pipe that fits over the shaft and butts up against the bearing.Then I can hammer away at the pipe,which in turn will drive the bearing down the shaft.Will put the opposite end on a 2x4 or something so not to damage that end,and drive it home.
I guess I should push the sled outside and drain the antifreeze on the gravel,not on my garage floor.
I guess I should push the sled outside and drain the antifreeze on the gravel,not on my garage floor.
Put the shaft in the freezer and the bearing in the oven. Works on farm stuff so I would thing it would work on a snowmobile part. Actually you probably don't need to do the freezer part, but since it will fit in the freezer it will make the job a little easier.
doesnt that bearing and race have a eccentric color, to lock the colar and then the set scew prevents it from spinning....
Don't Beat On It!!!
Dude, get some emery cloth and clean up the jack shaft. You've got it all burred up from pulling the bearing off. That bearing should slide right on there easily. You don't want to pound on it! The last thing you do in this process after everything else is all tightened is tighten the set screws on the bearing collar. Otherwise you will side load the bearing and it will prematurely wear it out.....plus it will be inefficient. On the antifreeze. Open the bleeder on the waterpump and let it run into the belly pan and out in a pan or on the floor. When it is out just pour a couple of buckets of hot water down through to wash it all clean. Good luck.
Matt
Dude, get some emery cloth and clean up the jack shaft. You've got it all burred up from pulling the bearing off. That bearing should slide right on there easily. You don't want to pound on it! The last thing you do in this process after everything else is all tightened is tighten the set screws on the bearing collar. Otherwise you will side load the bearing and it will prematurely wear it out.....plus it will be inefficient. On the antifreeze. Open the bleeder on the waterpump and let it run into the belly pan and out in a pan or on the floor. When it is out just pour a couple of buckets of hot water down through to wash it all clean. Good luck.
Matt
Use the old bearing and a hammer to finesse it on. Inner and outer races line up perfectly, so it won't damage the new one. Should just slide on though?!?!
should slide on and move fairly easily. If not try and clean up the shaft, I wouldn't beat on it.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
well with the puller it really took it's time coming off.Set screws were backed off in case you think I didn't do that.New bearing won't just simply be pushed on by hand.I got the one on my SXR 2 years ago done,can't remember how I got the new one back on.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
BOY I AM NOT THINKING CLEAR TODAY.The set mscrews on the new one were sticking into the clooar.SHEESH!!!!Shame on me.Now the beaing slides on and the last 3/8" it gets tight again.Just put the old bearing over the new one and tapped a little until it was in the correct spot.BINGO.That was easy.Thanks for the input anyways guys.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
One more thing,before I tighten the setscrews,do I put Assembly Lube on the threads or loctite before torquing them.
Blue locktite
I use blue locktite. I have never had a problem getting the set screws out using this. I honestly believe it prevents corrosion too.
Madmatt
I use blue locktite. I have never had a problem getting the set screws out using this. I honestly believe it prevents corrosion too.
Madmatt
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Thanks Madmatt
Yes locktite them. I had them come out on me in the U.P. and F'ed the jackshaft up pretty bad.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
right on dudes.