Installing 6502RS bearings in my chaincase,both sides are sealed,compared to one side

bluemonster1

bluemonster1

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Read many posts on this issue with the chaincase bearings.It was putting me to sleep already.I know the original bearings where open to the outside and closed to the oil side.But on the 2002 SRX I purchased last Feb.,one of them bearings is grinding when I spin it.It only has 3800 miles on it. The bearings I have new are sealed both sides.Would I be making a mistake taking the seal out of one side and placing it in the same as original...open to the outside and closed to the oil side(gear side)All other bearings on this sled I installed new and are all closed.So why would I have one side open on the chaincase bearings and have the oil comtaminate it.I am running good bearing to, NTN bearings.
 
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well I really would like to know what is the best way to install the bearings.I guess can't go wrong with the way Yamaha did it originally,open bearing to the tunnel side,closed to the chain side.
 
the seal should be on the side facing the elements and open towards a lubrication source. if the seal on the outside was missing it was put in wrong. the bearing would last longer with both seals on then one facing out and even longer if it has a constant lubrication source. bearing can last almost indefintly if they are constantly lubricated and free of grit or electrical current (fluting).
 
?????????????

Does the pics of the grease points show that you have to put grease on the open side of bearing,grease against the outer rubber seal and grease on the spacer/with the o-ring that slides on the jackshaft and or driveshaft.Is this correct?
 
That's ridiculous!!!! As terret725 said, A bearing with oil form the chain case lube-ing it all the time is going to out last a bearing with snow and salt and dirt running in it all day! as long as one keeps your chain oil changed! My phazers are all open to the oil. and I have never replaced ONE!

silversnow
 
is the bearing u talkinkin about the lower or uper? if its the upper it may use grease because the sproket may block oil from getting to it is there a grease fitting there?. if thats the case then the bearing should be sealed off anyway from the elements.
 
That`s the thing I am worried about when one side of the bearing is open,the side that faces the tunnel.The one I removed had 3800 miles on it and it already is making sounds when you spin it,and jambs sometimes.This is the one exactly behind the small sprocket.So your theory is correct.Maybe the oil can`t splash behind the upper sprocket enough to lube the open side of bearing.So maybe it is best to have the bearing with both seals on it installed that way.The bearing is lubed inside from factory,and that way no contaminants will work it`s way into it.So I will then install the upper and lower chaincase bearings the way they came,both sides sealed.The bearing on the chaincase cover is open on the inside from factory.I will be leaving that one the way it is,not even touching it.
 
Leave both seals on.
It's not good if "dirty" oil from chain case goes in bearing or water/snow from tunnel
 
I've seen a lot of chaincase bearings through the years and am convinced that the factory spec is best in this case.
 
by leaving both seals on the bearing it will fail sooner then later, the small amount of grease that comes in them wont make it as long. It will become hard and wad up between the bearings and then starve the bearing for lube, same exact way the idler wheels will do without any care given to them each season.The reason the seal is off on the inside is to allow the puddle of oil that will accumulate between the outside chaincase(closest to the jackshaft and driveshaft)seal and the space in betweeen to lube the bearing, there is a extra seal on the upper and lower shafts to shield the outside snow/dirt on back of chaincase. This is why both your jackshaft and driveshaft have a special spacer on them with a o-ring seal and this spacer resides in the inner seals both upper and lower. The seal on the chainside obviously keeps the large metal peices from chaincase from contaminating the bearing. If you spin a bearing in oil when its bone dry the rotation from the bearing will draw some oil thru past the seal, the small area in between the chaincase inner seal and the bearing width to chaincase side bearing seal is what will keep the bearing alive and lubed with chaincase lube.
 
If you leave the seal off facing the chain lube, just change your chain case oil every season and your bearing will last a long time. I had 9,000 Km on my 87 Exciter with the original bearing (inside seal removed). I changed it "just because" and the original bearing was still in good shape.

If you don't change your lube every season then there may be a reason to leave the inside seal on as per factory spec. There is some logic to decision.

I just changed mine on my SXR 600, 2 years ago and I decided to leave the outside seal on , removed the inside seal, used synthetic lube, and promised myself to change the oil each season. I'm doing a controlled test!!! I'll keep you posted.

Exciterfan
 
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