Mod Or No Mod?

justaviper said:
I'm a little curious why i should be checking squish clearance before i send the head to bender. I would think bender knows what it is, and machines accordingly. Do you think an aftermarket head would be a better choice? SRX parts are not DCS compatable. I would like to keep the DCS. Also the viper pipes are not designed to be used with SRX CDI and head. They were built for the viper with a higher rpm power band. I believe with the right jetting and compression the pipes will work great together with the DCS. Just have to find the sweet spot. I couldn't care less about fuel mileage. I'm looking for the fun factor. My drag car would use 1/2 a gallon a pass. At $12.00 a gallon it was worth every penny.

PS, You really seem to be against pipes. Is it only because of fuel mileage, or is it a reliability issue?
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Reason behind checking squish clearence before you send your head is because like I mentioned in a previous post. Just because you have a Viper doesnt mean your tolerence from your sled to mine is the same. I could have a squish clearence of say .058in across the board, and yours clearence could be .055in. So Bender would remove less material from my head compared to yours. From previous readings you want a squish clearence of .055in.-.058in. to me consider PUMP fuel safe on a Viper.

Im not againest pipes, Im just not a fan of riding a ticking time bomb esp. at times I ride by myself. Ive been told countless things about a piped viper that pushed me away from them.
Bad gas will lead to detontion
Bad MPG- Not worrying about if Im gunna make it to the next gas station when I was getting 12-14mpg out of my STOCK Viper.
Finky with air changes
Loose of relaibilty-Not worrying about buring down and having to replace pistons and replate cylinders which isnt cheap
To short of a season for ME to spent all that times tuning when I could be riding.
I could keep goin but I think you get the point.
 
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I understand what your saying. Thats exactly why i'm serching for the best all around combination. I want to keep the pipes, and still ride without problems. I don't want to be changing jets and clutch parts all day iether. If it has to be jetted rich to be safe, i don't have a problem with that. I might loose a few hp, but it wouldn't be mutch. I noticed on a very cold day the DCS light would come on even with the stock pipes. On a warmer day i could hold it to the bar all day. I don't think it would be any different with pipes. The proper set up should be just as reliable as stock, but without the fuel mileage. I'm willing to try it. If it blows, i'll fix it and try again. I'm trying to reserch it best i can, so it won't come to that.
 
i have found the cpr modded head to be great. although some are SCARED about the pipes, the only issue is the fuel consumption. anyone who can tune can keep a piped viper on the trail. i havent had any issues with my viper as long as i ran it with the modded head. dont let anyone scare you away from the pipes because of incorrect information.
 
redsnake3 said:
i have found the cpr modded head to be great. although some are SCARED about the pipes, the only issue is the fuel consumption. anyone who can tune can keep a piped viper on the trail. i havent had any issues with my viper as long as i ran it with the modded head. dont let anyone scare you away from the pipes because of incorrect information.
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Im not trying to scare anyone away first off. But please share with me what information I posted that was incorrect.
 
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Expert X - It just sounds negative, negative, negative. Modding sleds is alot of fun. Some guys dont go - postal - just because of a squeaked piston. "justaviper "get a hold of Don he can advise you. Keep DCS. Keep Viper CDI. Do head mod to reduce compression and even out PSI. Stock 13.5 to 1 is to much for a mod trail sled held to the bar all day. CRP brings them down to 12 to 1. Yes hp (4-6) is lost but the motor won't burn down.
 
Mac said:
Expert X - It just sounds negative, negative, negative. Modding sleds is alot of fun. Some guys dont go - postal - just because of a squeaked piston. "justaviper "get a hold of Don he can advise you. Keep DCS. Keep Viper CDI. Do head mod to reduce compression and even out PSI. Stock 13.5 to 1 is to much for a mod trail sled held to the bar all day. CRP brings them down to 12 to 1. Yes hp (4-6) is lost but the motor won't burn down.
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I never said modding anything wasnt fun, but not eveyone can afford to fry a couple cylinders and pistons here and there and call it a day. Not all have bank rolls to take that chance, me I could squeeze it by but in my mind it wouldnt be worth it for a 3 month toy.

Redsnake- I apologize, since I was being so "negative" I thought you were implying me.
 
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Mac said:
Expert X - It just sounds negative, negative, negative. Modding sleds is alot of fun. Some guys dont go - postal - just because of a squeaked piston. "justaviper "get a hold of Don he can advise you. Keep DCS. Keep Viper CDI. Do head mod to reduce compression and even out PSI. Stock 13.5 to 1 is to much for a mod trail sled held to the bar all day. CRP brings them down to 12 to 1. Yes hp (4-6) is lost but the motor won't burn down.
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Not to speak for him, but to save him having to respond again to the same questions, I did get ahold of Don. He recomended "ya, youll need the head mod with the DCS. I am not set up to do 1 peice 3 cylinder heads so youd have to have bender do that art still. The bender head gasket is fine also."
 
Thanks for the boost guy's. I was starting to get a little negative myself there. I talked with Don, and he is whilling to help me with the clutch set up. I,m planning to do a little porting on the motor, so hopefully i can make up for the loss of hp from the lower compression.

Redsnake, i noticed you have coated pistons and domes. That probably helps the engine run cooler. Does bender do this?
 
just:

if you had cpr pipes i would reccomend you call jeff & do as he says since he did the r&d on his pipes.
you have bender pipes & bender did the r&d so they can tell you what to do with their pipes. guys get in trouble when they try to recreate the wheel. countless hours are spent in r&d by experts to bring a product to market & have it work correctly under various conditions.
don't be one of those guys that buys missmatched pieces from various vendors & then wonder why they keep having problems. the majority of mechanical failures are not caused by the design/manufacturer but by the purchaser who either doesn't follow the directions, doesn't have the mechanical expertise to do the job properly or tries to be creative & puts their personal twist on the modification.
bender racing: 716 941 5840.

bob
 
BufaloBob is correct. The people who designed the pipes know what to do to make them safe, and they're usually more than willing to help. Call the pipe manufacturer and ask informed questions and they'll help you out. If I was you I'd ask where the "hotspots" in the rev range are with each set of pipes, so that you can avoid that RPM range with your clutching.

every pipe is different, and designed to work at different temperatures, pressures and engine speeds. Even across pipes 1,2,3 there'll be differences. The manufacturer will know and have the information you need to avoid danger.
 
Junior said:
BufaloBob is correct. The people who designed the pipes know what to do to make them safe, and they're usually more than willing to help.
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Sounds like sound advice to me!
 
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