Antifreeze additive ?

Ok this is starting to make very little sense. No matter what way you put it water has a thermal conductivity than ethylene glycol, a higher specific heat (which is important even if reduced effect due to the rpm of the engine, it still has the ability to carry MORE heat away from the source), and the higher thermal conductivity transports that heat to the exchangers MORE QUICKLY than ethylene glycol. Ethylene glycol is used to lower the freezing point, raise the boiling point, and to reduce the corrosive effects of water in an engine. It is NOT USED to be a BETTER COOLANT. Even the thermal conductivity of 50/50 is MUCH lower than that of pure water. The thermal conductivity constant of pure water is 0.60, for 50% water/50% ethylene glycol it is 0.41, and for pure ethylene glycol it is a measly 0.25. Now it is fairly difficult to accurately create and measure the effects of surface tension inside a running engine, but in theory yes the water will have more bubbles formed at the hot spots (along the cylinders and head) than ethylene will due to the lower boiling point of water. The alcohol ethylene glycol raises the boiling point, which reduces the chances of small scale boiling at the hot spots that would cause gas bubbles to form. That being said, water still has MUCH more ability to carry away heat from the engine as long as you are pumping the coolant through fast enough that the cylinder walls the coolant touches do not get above the boiling point of the liquid at the given pressure of the system. That is why cooling systems are pressurized, to raise the boiling point further.
 

By the way i am not getting angry or frustrated at all. I love a good debate and im sure we all stand to learn a little something from doing things like this. :winterrul
 
thing is that in my mind, without having any actual testing data infront of me, eliminating flash points is far more important than an increase in specific heat capacity, particularly since there's more than enough flow to keep up with heating ability, you're running against the thermostat the VAST majority of the time anyways. so you realistically won't get the motor much (if any) cooler by increasing specific heat capacity. And getting better surface tension and boiling point properties will actually raise your coolant temperature, but that's the point, the energy is coming out to the heat exchangers in your coolant, not building up in your aluminum cylinder walls.
 
Jeeeesh, You guys are making this way to complicated for me and now I'm scared my sleds going to burn up and leave me stranded. I guess I now have no choice but to drain and flush my whole cooling system, fill her up 100% with Seagrams VO and pack a nice glass tumbler in the tool box. I have experiance with the stuff, know it doesn't freeze and it goes good with water so if my motor burns up I'll just get out my tumbler, pack her full of snow, drain some coolant into my glass, sit down and wait for a tow. Hell if I can figure out a way to fit a cash register in the trunk and brings some extra cups I might be able to make a few bucks. ;):D ;):D :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:


(opsled)
 
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