1/2 Ton Pick-Up Pulling 24ft Enclosed Trailer????

BBlueSRX} I just read an article in Road & Track on the 07 chevy Z-71 1/2 ton that in stock form real life was getting an impresive 13.4 MPG. That SUCKS !!! Why are we accepting getting fuel mileage similar to a F-700 dump truck that weighs 15 said:
In that article was the truck even broke in yet? What gears did it have? Were they testing it with E85 or Gas? These are 3 major players when testing for fuel mileage. The truck Im getting is E85 compatible and has the multi displacement feature which drops 4 cylinders when you reach a cruising speed. 16MPG City and 20MPG Highway is what its rated for, so even if I get 12-14 in the city Ill be happy with that. Compared to my F-150 4x4 4.6L 3.55 gears Auto that gets like 10-12mpg in the city and 14-16mpg on the e-way.

Alot of you guys are telling me to go bigger truck wise, when this trailer will only be used 4-6 times a year MAX, the rest of it time will be used for storage. IMO I dont see the point of spending more money on a truck that will be used very little for HEAVY loads such as the trailer Im looking to buy. I mean if your all willing to donate some cash please feel free. But I went with what I could afford and what seems practical on daily basis not for 4-6 trips out of the year. Just doesnt seem practical to go bigger IMO.
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i wouldnt do it even though you are only going to gaylord or where ever. too much stress on a truck not designed for that type of load. especially want to talk you out of ANY steel trailer. cheap yes, and it will show in a few years in rust.

i wouldnt haul anything close to the gvwr rating on any car or truck. just cause it is rated for it doesnt mean it is going to last doing it. lots of stress on suspension, frame, TRANSMISSION. even in third and a tow haul enguaged, just not worth that wear n tear to a vehicle you just paid upwards of 30,000+ that you plan on keeping. if you want to haul 4 place enclosed trailer or heavy loads buy a truck rated for it with a diesel.

ask yourself this, if you were buying a used truck and knew it was used to do what you are describing several times a year, would you still be interested in buying it? i know i wouldnt want to shell out good money for that used truck, and find out i have to replace a tranny, suspension, or go to alignment and find out my over weighted vehicles frame was damaged in the rear and now it has to be repaired on my dime for someone elses poor judgement.

just food for thought. can it be done, sure... should it, you be the judge. ski
 
I previously pulled a 6000 lb pulling tractor with a 1/2 ton Yukon XL and now my H2 . It stops better with the trailer and tractor better than it does w/o. As long as you have a weight distribution hitch and brakes there is no problem.
 
I do have the extra trans and oil cooler. The Yukon had a 5.3 with 3.73 where my H2 has a 6.0 with 4.11 gears.
 
skidooboy said:
i wouldnt do it even though you are only going to gaylord or where ever. too much stress on a truck not designed for that type of load. especially want to talk you out of ANY steel trailer. cheap yes, and it will show in a few years in rust.

i wouldnt haul anything close to the gvwr rating on any car or truck. just cause it is rated for it doesnt mean it is going to last doing it. lots of stress on suspension, frame, TRANSMISSION. even in third and a tow haul enguaged, just not worth that wear n tear to a vehicle you just paid upwards of 30,000+ that you plan on keeping. if you want to haul 4 place enclosed trailer or heavy loads buy a truck rated for it with a diesel.

ask yourself this, if you were buying a used truck and knew it was used to do what you are describing several times a year, would you still be interested in buying it? i know i wouldnt want to shell out good money for that used truck, and find out i have to replace a tranny, suspension, or go to alignment and find out my over weighted vehicles frame was damaged in the rear and now it has to be repaired on my dime for someone elses poor judgement.

just food for thought. can it be done, sure... should it, you be the judge. ski
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This thread is now turning me a$$ backwards not knowing what to do.

I diff. see where your coming from and I am really leaning away from a steel trailer cause of the weight and corrsion issue. Im curious to hear what you have about the R n R 24ft Snowfire Aluminum enclosed weighing in at 2600lbs, still wouldnt buy/pull it if you got a decent deal on it??? Reason I ask is the truck I order is not going anywhere, so what would you suggest a good enclosed trailer(NO CLAM SHELL!!!) would be. I could live with a 2 place but really want a real enclosed trailer, price range is $4000-4500 max.
 
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6x24 haulmark enclosed steelie, loaded with 3 sleds and gear towed with a 97 F150 (5.4) 4x4 with tow package, for 4 seasons without issues. Had to use the load levelers when it was loaded but otherwise it was a combination I would tow with for many years. Fortunately for me, we bought a fifth wheel that didn't tow so well with the 150 so now I have a 250 diesel.

I say get the 1/2 ton and just be sure of the load your towing and don't cheap out on a brake controller. If you're going with a 4 place, get aluminum, other wise a three or less inline steelie is fine. After 7 seasons, we just now need to add sone plating on the lower outside walls (aluminum skin has some cancer) but the frame and wall framing are in great shape. We will be oil spraying the area where the walls meet the deck from the inside this year for the first time but the deck frame has been done 3 times. The whole rear panel of the trailer needs to be re-skined, but the steel is solid.

And your pickup was made for towing/hauling. The engineers put some thought into this when designing the truck and as long as you keep up with maintenance and don't overload it, it should last many miles. Anybody shopping for a used truck should be well aware it was used for towing, that's why your supposed to buy one.
 
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I have a 25 or 26' enclosed 4 place aluminum trailer, and weight on it is 2500 and change without the interior finished or anything inside. So with 4 sleds, fuel and gear it is over 6000 easy. I personally would not pull that with a 1/2 ton, but on the other hand it can be done and still be legal as well. The only thing I hate about my diesel is having to take it out of cruise when the roads get nasty.
 
I drive a 04 half ton Chevy, I love it, but in my opinion they are 4wd cars. Most will comfortably pull HALF what they are rated for ( I have gears and tow package). Pull them at the rated limit and you will see the tack at 5500 rpm and the milage computer at 6mpg, with no wind or hills. Or ...get a Dmax and a small chip drive whatever speed you want and never have it down shift and get no less than 12 mpg.
 
You wont have a problem.I have the same truck (07 chevy silverado 5.3 with 3:73) and i pull my 29' (7000 lb)travel trailer with no problem.I have 1000 lb bars on my distribution hitch and it sits nice and level with the trailer on it too.
 
Alright when buying a Weight Dist. does it matter its a little over rated for your application????? I found a brand new weight dist. that a guy is looking to sell for $200. Its made by Tow Products(Plymouth, MI) its rating is 1000lb tongue and rated for a 10,000lb trailer. Will this work or no?????
 
It will work fine, does this price include the load equalization bars and trailer mounts? If so, that is a good price.
 
sxrron said:
It will work fine, does this price include the load equalization bars and trailer mounts? If so, that is a good price.
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From the pics and what he told me it includes everything I need to bolt on and tow. And like I said before its brand new, thought its was a good deal compared others I priced out.
 
ExpertXViper said:
From the pics and what he told me it includes everything I need to bolt on and tow. And like I said before its brand new, thought its was a good deal compared others I priced out.
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Yea that is a real good deal if that includes everything.
 
Watch for the proper 2 5/16 ball dia.....
While the brakes are new on the trailer , with a good controller
and proper adjustment of the gain control , the trailer will
stop itself with almost no load to the brakes on the pull vehicle.
...the problem is the 6 month of off season and brakes working
at 65 percent , the trailer can just run right over you in a panic
stop .
Power train,,,along the road at reasonable speed should be fine .
starting out in low with your foot tramped can twist the bolts
right out the hubs . Drive in 3rd and tow/haul and you should be fine.
When going up a long grade your temp gauge will tell you when you
pushed to hard (bigger eng and tran cooler in bigger trucks) and
leave the air cond OFF. (it adds heat ahead of the others).
IN General ....drive like you have eggs under the pedals and
keep the brakes working on the trailers....going up long grades,don't
floor it to hold speed , put on the flashers and let it slow a bit.
Good luck ....and be carefulllllll.....
.....Every answer to this post seems correct to me ......It comes
down to truck life time expectancy , your required / expected
performance and proper service of the puller and the pullee .
RON
 
my neighbor pulls a 32' travel trailer non 5th wheel behind his half ton ford with no problems. and he dosen't shy away from the hills either. but he has a weight distributing hitch and trailer brakes. remember the truck is more than rated for this weight. you're trailer should be under 6000 and the truck can definately pull that.
 
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