Help with Ohlins

ReaperSRX

ReaperSRX

Member
Joined
May 26, 2003
Messages
589
Age
53
Location
New Liskeard, Ontario
I in the process of installing extensions to shocks, but i have to remove the split metal busing with ruber orings, some guys have just kept it in when the heat up eye, but i would like to remove, the instructions aren't clear on how to remove, any out there removed both bottom and top bushings on Ohlins, and could you give detail instructions....thanks.... Reaper
 
Why would you want to remove the top bushings?To remove the lower ones i just put a socket over the bushing and taped it with a hammer.Poped right out of there.Take the orings out and install the extensions.
 
Hey Atlas, i tried by laying shock with spring off on wood with eye hanging off a bit and put socket over and hit with hammer, hard enough and nothing, could let me know how hard i should be hitting it, and if i understand you correctly.............Reaper
 
I kinda figured out i had to remove the orings first, with pick tool, but i am still trying to get that metal insert out of the eye, i must be pulling a Homer Simpson or somthing because i just don't get it :oops: .........Reaper
 
Well try clamping the bushing in a vise and pull,wiggle,pry,etc.. on the shock to slide it off the bushing.Or try clamping the shock in vise and use a big screw driver or pry bar and slide in the bushing and try to wiggle or pry it out.All i did to mine was lay the shock eye on top of the vise.With the vise open enough for the bushing to drop out.Placed a socket on top of the bushing so i wasnt pounding directly on the bushing and hit it with a hammer.I didnt have to take the orings out first.They came out after the bushing came out.
 
So far only working on one shock, like i said took orings out first and did pry out that split busing, now still left with metal piece in eye does that stay in or can i should i knock out with socket and hammer....i think i am going about this backwards............i will try on other shock, like you describe just place on vice, put socket on top on hammer till it all pops out other side...........Reaper
 
I must not be understanding you correctly.You got the bushing and the orings out right?Thats all you need to remove.The bushing that im refering to is the one that the bolt slides through.This is the one you have removed correct?It should pop out fairly easy.If you are refering to something that the bushing slides through you dont need to go that far.I tried to find a diagram of the shock but couldnt.I cant remeber if there was a needle bearing in the shock eye or not.If you are trying to remove a needle bearing you dont have to.
 
Well i finally got them off, what i found best was to use small srewdriver, inserted in split and popped out one side then used small socket and hammer and popped other out.....there is another type of insert, but i left in and will finally get to install extensions today, thanks for all the help, i know you must have been getting tired of my questions!.........Reaper
 
i knew you could do it! never had a doubt in my mind. LOL! while you were doing that, I was busy taking off my track and pulling the skid to install my rear rail extensions from tracks usa. they are great pieces to work with. had to trim my rails just slightly with a hand file as the new extensions are tight (which is a good thing) i did have to buy 4 more stainless bolts, 8 washers and 4 nuts to make the install look alot cleaner. i phoned bruce at tracks usa to tell him of this issue and to make the install cleaner for him & his customers for a better final product. now i just need to pick a track. it is so hard to pick a track and pick the right one which isnt going to break the bank but will do what i want/need it to do. any help anyone????? ski
 
I know what you mean, i was looking at new track this year, 1.25" , but to get quality Camo track was just out of my budget this year, after getting long travel kit, new transfer rods, Ohlins extensions, handle bar hooks, wheel kit and other seasonal parts, but still have lots of kms on current stock track, no studs(do need them up here or believe in them, but thats another story), good luck with your project cause winter's comming, we got wet snow yesterday!!!!.....Reaper
 
Ski, the 9818 (I think!) is the 1.25 version of my 9830. It's meant for snox, to perform in loose sloppy snow. I can tell you, it's a great pattern! As long as I don't pull a bone head manuver, like stopping with the skis pointing up hill...I have no problem getting around in the deep stuff, and I know thats watcha like!

I think I saw that track going for under $400 from Bruce too...just call him up and ask him!
 
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