To stud or not to stud?

2datrl

2datrl

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That is the question.
I have a 2004 Viper S with 1.25 inch ripsaw. The track performed great in the UP on and off trail. In the Northwoods where things get icy, it can be a different story.
I can change the drivers etc. and stud the ripsaw, or change the track to a 9830 or hacksaw (1 inch) and not change the drivers. In both cases I need to add all of the protection for the tunnel and exchangers.
So either way I'm looking at spending $800 or more. Is it worth it?
Do the studs help anywhere besides the ice?
Thanks for the input, winter is coming.
2datrl
 

In low snow they can help get a grip, but they can also bend, break and pull out in low snow too. I won't ride without studs anymore. It only takes one icy corner to ruin a trip, and I don't get that many a year. Tunnel protectors can be made cheap out of 1 inch square aluminum tubing, I may even have a set for a 121 sled. If you are going to change tracks get a 1.25 6 pitch, and 8 tooth drivers. Thats what I would run. Maxdlx
 
An ice ripper can be run without tunnel/exchanger protectors, you just need to make sure you don't run it too loose. Buddy of mine has that set up - he likes it a lot. (I'm thinking about copying him.)
 
I am with MaxDLX, I can see the logic of no studs- save money, protect track, less rotating wt etc; BUT I have an unplanned tendoncy to come into unknown corners and over rises and have the surprise of ice and or need for emergency manuver with more speed than ice and rubber alone can handle.

So I go with studs and usually a couple times a year I say in my helmet, "Thank God I had studs for that". So if you know you are always in controll and have no ice than ride safe with no studs. I can't say that so I stud.

I do not mean to offend anyone, that is just how it is for me. I am sure there are better riders than me out there who never stud, and more power to them.

Yamadoo
 
I would try the ice ripper. It will cost just as much as studding your track and maybe less depending on how crazy you want to get with the amount of studs, brand, and length, backer plates and T-nuts. and dont forget about the cost of the 8 tooth drivers and a gear change to compensate for the smaller drivers
 
I would definetly stud it. Last winter I rode with a 1.25" Ripsaw and it was downright dangerous in the corners. I basically drifted every corner.
Hills were a problem at times too. I would basically have to get a good run at every hill othewise it would just spin and Id get stuck halfway up the hill.
Some people will tell you that with a Ripsaw that studs are not needed, but I disagree with that.
 
I've ridden a ripsaw without studs for 4 years and it can be a little scary at times. I think the ice ripper is a great solution. My buddy that has his ice ripper use to have 144 studs and he said it's not the same, but he would do it again.
 
Either stud, or go with the Ice ripper. I've simply had too many scares without studs. Of course it all plays into how much you really want to spend.
 
tomseal6 said:
I would try the ice ripper. It will cost just as much as studding your track and maybe less depending on how crazy you want to get with the amount of studs, brand, and length, backer plates and T-nuts. and dont forget about the cost of the 8 tooth drivers and a gear change to compensate for the smaller drivers
Click to expand...

i agree with this post maybe try a 1" ice ripper and see how you like it depends on what your going for really

our zrt has 96 as my dad just wants them for safety and 96 down the center is the most reliable apparently

my sled i have 192 1" stud boys, i like the sled to hook up 100% every single time i stomp the throattle

so question is are you performance orientated or safety?>
 
Safety is my primary concern, I think that I will go with a 1 inch track, either pre-drilled and start with 96 picks or, try an ice ripper.
Thanks 2datrl
 
The Ice Ripper is a good track for someone who is just a casual trail rider. That might be something to consider.
The Ice Ripper doesnt give you quite as much hookup as a track with traditional studs, but if all you want is enough traction for safety in the turns, the Ice Ripper might be the way to go
 
I rode with studs for a year, then decided that I will never ride with studs again. After running without studs last season on my 1.25" predator, I'm going back to a 1" predator with 144 studs again. The additional traction is not only good for performance, but also as many have said, additional safety. If I hadn't have been running studs this year, I would have hit about 3 dear on the road/trail this season. I was literally about 10 feet away on the road in February last winter, without studs I would have smashed that dear at 60 mph. Sure, if you ride in good snow conditions, a 1.25" track is all you need, but with the declining trail systems here in Ontario where you are running roads about 30% of the time, and all the icy corners/ hard pack situations you run in to now that the winters are so warm during the day and cold during the night, I can't afford to run without them anymore. I personally think that a 1" track with 144 studs is the way to go.
 
Change Up, you hit it there on the kind of winter your having.I've had years where studs are needed, but then I've run without them some winters with constant fresh snow and very little ice and they were'nt neede nearly as much.There definetely a good safety net, but what your riding on sure makes a difference.
 
either way by march you will need them the B trail in around muskoka/ jolly roger area is one of the trails that i find studs are almost a necesity (sp) there really steep hills over and over, and in the march the snow and ice mix all over the place so you might be half way up a hill and hit us

HUGE thing i find is on the way down if somone needs to check up for a bump or washout with studs in front of you they will stop but without studs your just along for the ride basically

also if your safety is number 1 a simple V pattern 96 is all you will ever need, stays away from the edges and is the safest bet when it comes to your track longevity
 
Personally, I wouldnt waste my money on a new track untill it is necessary. The ripsaw is a great performing track (I didnt say it was the best!!) and studs only improve its performance and safety.
Stud it, add protectors and change to 8 tooth drivers(Im still running 9 tooth without any issues)
Im sure this will be less than $800 and you can buy a new track when your ready for one!
Good luck
 
I would think you could get the top speed fairly close by re-gearing.
 
Thanks to all of you that swayed me back to stud land. I really liked the Ripsaw, but under certain conditions... So, I have ordered a 1 inch hacksaw, pre-drilled for studding.
My Ripsaw will be available hopefully in 2-3 weeks for sale. I'm thinking of asking $175.00 for it. Approx. 1800 miles on the track, no rips, etc.
2datrl
 
My used Viper came with 144 studs in the stock track. There are times I would like the rear to be a little looser. If I were going to stud a Viper track I would not use over 120 studs. 96 might be a good number to start with. G.B.
 
I just put 96 studs in my Viper a week ago. Did it myself and didn't need to install any tunnel protectors.
I used the simple and effective V pattern as well. Safety is essential, and after a close call on an icy road, each of these studs is worth it's weight in gold.
Many people might say 96 is far too few, but I'm not drag racing, and I don't brake hard unless it's an emergency. 96 studs is plenty. I don't expect to bend, break, or loose any studs from my track.
 
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