One of my summer projects was to build a seat riser. My riser is a combination of seat riser and extra foam mod seat top for under $27 bucks.
Seat Riser
Demension 2" in front and 3" in rear
2 pcs of 1/4 plywood - cut to underside of seat: $6
1 1/2 x 14 of trim wood for front of riser: $1.50
1" plastic pipe cut on angle to 2 1/2 for rear bolts: .67c
3 - cans of expand foam that hardens (red can): $15
2 - 55mm bolts 10.9: free
2 - 55mm coupler nuts: free
2 - 1/2 plastic washers: free
7 - sticks of hot glue sticks: $2.00
Vinyl: free
Foam 1": $3.60
1" - Galvanized steel strap: $3.00
Closed cell dense foam: $ 4.50
Cut the front wood support and the rear plastic supports measured to get the spec of 2" in the front and 3" in the rear edge. Drill a hole for the rear bolts. The plastic supports will go over the hole. Cut extra wood supports: 3 pcs in the center and 4 pcs in the rear past the plastic supports. Screw the supports in the top and bottom. Hot glue all supports. Drill 1" holes: 8 accross from front to back, top and bottom. Spray foam the riser and let DRY for 24 hours. Keep and eye on the rise of the foam so the riser does not expand. Cut off excess foam and paint. Use 1" foam around the edge. On one side make a 1/2" edge that goes around the top edge to cover the gap. Then staple the vinyl over the foam. Duck tape the staples.
The steel strap is measured to the riser and seat height tabs and fastened by using the gas tank bolts. The strap allows the front seat tabs to hook under and secure the front of the seat. You have to measure the height to make sure your strap fits your gap. Cut the closed cell foam to fit around the edge of the tank to take up the gap between the seat and the tank.
Assemble the the riser by using a plastic washer, existing seat nuts and coupler nuts to the seats old studs. Seat riser and seat and bolts with plastic washers.
Foam 1" added to the top of the Seat
Bought a 1" thick by 14" by 20" to the top of the Viper seat. Use mesh sandpaper used for drywall sanding to sculpt the edge to a bevel 45 degree on the sides. Take the seats front staples out. I wrapped the foam in a slippery packing paper and put it in the seat. Positioned it to te exact spot and pulled out the paper. I used super stickie double sided tape in between the foam the full length in 3 strips. Restaple. Make sure you have room to add the foam to your seat.
The combination of the seat riser and foam gives the seat a close 3" in the front and 4" in the rear. Overall, the seat fits great and gives the sled a more rider forward position for me.
The pictures show the seat completed, wood with the holes, and supports prior to foam. Bracket for the lip of the seat that fastens to the tank bolts.
Thanks to Bearit for original concept.
Seat Riser
Demension 2" in front and 3" in rear
2 pcs of 1/4 plywood - cut to underside of seat: $6
1 1/2 x 14 of trim wood for front of riser: $1.50
1" plastic pipe cut on angle to 2 1/2 for rear bolts: .67c
3 - cans of expand foam that hardens (red can): $15
2 - 55mm bolts 10.9: free
2 - 55mm coupler nuts: free
2 - 1/2 plastic washers: free
7 - sticks of hot glue sticks: $2.00
Vinyl: free
Foam 1": $3.60
1" - Galvanized steel strap: $3.00
Closed cell dense foam: $ 4.50
Cut the front wood support and the rear plastic supports measured to get the spec of 2" in the front and 3" in the rear edge. Drill a hole for the rear bolts. The plastic supports will go over the hole. Cut extra wood supports: 3 pcs in the center and 4 pcs in the rear past the plastic supports. Screw the supports in the top and bottom. Hot glue all supports. Drill 1" holes: 8 accross from front to back, top and bottom. Spray foam the riser and let DRY for 24 hours. Keep and eye on the rise of the foam so the riser does not expand. Cut off excess foam and paint. Use 1" foam around the edge. On one side make a 1/2" edge that goes around the top edge to cover the gap. Then staple the vinyl over the foam. Duck tape the staples.
The steel strap is measured to the riser and seat height tabs and fastened by using the gas tank bolts. The strap allows the front seat tabs to hook under and secure the front of the seat. You have to measure the height to make sure your strap fits your gap. Cut the closed cell foam to fit around the edge of the tank to take up the gap between the seat and the tank.
Assemble the the riser by using a plastic washer, existing seat nuts and coupler nuts to the seats old studs. Seat riser and seat and bolts with plastic washers.
Foam 1" added to the top of the Seat
Bought a 1" thick by 14" by 20" to the top of the Viper seat. Use mesh sandpaper used for drywall sanding to sculpt the edge to a bevel 45 degree on the sides. Take the seats front staples out. I wrapped the foam in a slippery packing paper and put it in the seat. Positioned it to te exact spot and pulled out the paper. I used super stickie double sided tape in between the foam the full length in 3 strips. Restaple. Make sure you have room to add the foam to your seat.
The combination of the seat riser and foam gives the seat a close 3" in the front and 4" in the rear. Overall, the seat fits great and gives the sled a more rider forward position for me.
The pictures show the seat completed, wood with the holes, and supports prior to foam. Bracket for the lip of the seat that fastens to the tank bolts.
Thanks to Bearit for original concept.
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