progold
New member
Kirkswim i am in the process of purchasing a 02 viper with a MBRP RACE CAN and i dont understand why you would wrap the can? what if i dont wrap the can will it hurt the performance?
on kirkswim's viper, the mbrp can un wrapped looses 400 rpm on top end when you are hammering it across the lake on your 2nd run. on the 1 run across the lake fresh from the trail the can is hot so rpms do not fluctuate. the can cools down on the 1st run and you would have to heat it up again for the rpms to stay up.
with the header wrap on it, the can holds it's tempurature wayy better and the rpm's do not change on repated lake runs.
he/we learned this after trying to get his clutching set with the can on. it would not pull the rpm's with the can on. switched it back to stock can and rpms where bang on where turk said they should be.
with the header wrap on it, the can holds it's tempurature wayy better and the rpm's do not change on repated lake runs.
he/we learned this after trying to get his clutching set with the can on. it would not pull the rpm's with the can on. switched it back to stock can and rpms where bang on where turk said they should be.
yammyhamer408
New member
ok where did u get ur heads done and what did u pay for ur pipes and cluch kit and evrything what did the kit cost
Progold
After just comming off the trail(50-60kph) if I hammered it on the lake I would pull 8500-8600 rpm with the MBRP can stock and definetly be doing over 90mph. But I found that if I turned around to do a second run I could only get it to rev at 8100 at wot. I tried fixing it with clutching but I would then either over rev on my first run and be good after or have my revs off on both runs. I mean if you are doing wot runs the exhaust should be hot right? The problem with the MBRP can is that it is much smaller than the stocker(and way lighter) so it allows more air to flow around the can. With no or little insulation around it the can cools off very quickly(after 2 wot runs i could remove it wearing leather work gloves with out burning myself could not do it after a trail run) I though about blocking the side vent in the belly pan to help cut down the air flow but decided not to since the brake and chaincase are also cooled by that air some. I then used some old exhaust header wrap I had in the garage to layer the body of the can. This helped to keep the heat in(got the idea from a friend that told me they put header wrap on their performace car to help keep the exhaust at the same temp to make tuning easier). I can now switch back and forth between the MBRP can(wrap'd) and my stocker with no large rpm change.
I now only use my mbrp when I am planing on being in deep snow all day(the weight saving makes it easier for the front end to stay up)
After just comming off the trail(50-60kph) if I hammered it on the lake I would pull 8500-8600 rpm with the MBRP can stock and definetly be doing over 90mph. But I found that if I turned around to do a second run I could only get it to rev at 8100 at wot. I tried fixing it with clutching but I would then either over rev on my first run and be good after or have my revs off on both runs. I mean if you are doing wot runs the exhaust should be hot right? The problem with the MBRP can is that it is much smaller than the stocker(and way lighter) so it allows more air to flow around the can. With no or little insulation around it the can cools off very quickly(after 2 wot runs i could remove it wearing leather work gloves with out burning myself could not do it after a trail run) I though about blocking the side vent in the belly pan to help cut down the air flow but decided not to since the brake and chaincase are also cooled by that air some. I then used some old exhaust header wrap I had in the garage to layer the body of the can. This helped to keep the heat in(got the idea from a friend that told me they put header wrap on their performace car to help keep the exhaust at the same temp to make tuning easier). I can now switch back and forth between the MBRP can(wrap'd) and my stocker with no large rpm change.
I now only use my mbrp when I am planing on being in deep snow all day(the weight saving makes it easier for the front end to stay up)
progold
New member
progold
Thanks for the explaination MAIM.
Thanks for the explaination MAIM.
progold
New member
Progold
Kirkswim do you just wrap the can or the pipe leading to the can? reason why im asking because the guy i am buying the sled from said he can notice the difference between the stock vrs the MBRP ,he said there is not much of a difference but said it was a little slower at wot.
Kirkswim do you just wrap the can or the pipe leading to the can? reason why im asking because the guy i am buying the sled from said he can notice the difference between the stock vrs the MBRP ,he said there is not much of a difference but said it was a little slower at wot.
kirkswim is in bed but as his brother i can tell you that he only wrapped the body of the mbrp can.
Like Maim said I only wrapped the body of the can. To me the MBRP can even wraped does not perform as well as the stocker at wot. But without a dyno it is hard to tell. But wrapped the rpms stay within 100 of the stocker which helps to keep the clutching/power delivery more consistent. So if you wrap the can it might get that power back that the owner said he was missing/lost on top end.
