w8tn4snow
New member
Getting ready to send my head to Bender for the head mod and i was wondering if theres and tips on taking it off that would be good to know ? Any tricks to draining the coolant or anything before i tear it down . i remember someone posting something about it being hard to get all the air out after . Also does anyone know if theyll tell me how to rejet ?
JeepTherapy
New member
Bender has a chart for jetting specs with their pipes. Safe jetting for me is 167.5/55s. I am going to start with 165/55s though. Those are recommended for known good fuel. Instead of the head mod ($175? plus shipping two ways? plus opticool gasket?) which gets to about $250 I bought a new peak performance head for $350. If I can sell my stock head for $75 to $100 I think I come out pretty close.
I have talked to them on the phone a couple times. Both times they have been very helpful. I was a little leery to send my head to them last year as it was right in the middle of their restructure. I was quoted 2 to 4 weeks turn time. Then started hearing horror stories.
As for removing trapped air it sounds pretty straight forward. fill run, fill run.... pull bleeder in the cooler until it flows without bubbles.
I also found that setting the pipes into place was significantly easier than what I read. I have gotten to where I can pop them into place by myself in about 5 minutes. I put the M pipe in first then as a set lift the P and C into place. Then I let go of the combination and work one pipe at a time into place. I haven't put them in with the sealant yet but I don't see any issues with that either. I still need to paint mine with the heat paint.
I have talked to them on the phone a couple times. Both times they have been very helpful. I was a little leery to send my head to them last year as it was right in the middle of their restructure. I was quoted 2 to 4 weeks turn time. Then started hearing horror stories.
As for removing trapped air it sounds pretty straight forward. fill run, fill run.... pull bleeder in the cooler until it flows without bubbles.
I also found that setting the pipes into place was significantly easier than what I read. I have gotten to where I can pop them into place by myself in about 5 minutes. I put the M pipe in first then as a set lift the P and C into place. Then I let go of the combination and work one pipe at a time into place. I haven't put them in with the sealant yet but I don't see any issues with that either. I still need to paint mine with the heat paint.
w8tn4snow
New member
I guess I havent heard any of the horror stories , i called them and was quoted a week turn around . . I just figured since im running their pipes and their clutching i would have them do the head also , then i only have 1 company to blame when it melts down . So i guess there isnt any tricks when draining the coolant . i wasnt sure if it was better to keep the front of the sled higher than the rear so all the coolant didnt run out .
JeepTherapy
New member
Can't help ya on the draining of the coolant. I did a 136 on mine at the same time so I drained the coolant at the back first. I have yet to drain the motor.
I should get my new head soon and will be jumping in with both feet with that too. I also think the sticking with bender like your doing is a good choice. That was my first plan. Then I changed my mind and decided to do the billet head for the few extra $$$$. That was also a bender recommendation. That the billet head would be a step up from their modded head.
I am curious to hear too if there is some trick to less mess with the coolant. I already have it all over from taking the rear cooler off. Then got gear oil all over from splitting the chain case. Would like to try and avoid any more mess.
I should get my new head soon and will be jumping in with both feet with that too. I also think the sticking with bender like your doing is a good choice. That was my first plan. Then I changed my mind and decided to do the billet head for the few extra $$$$. That was also a bender recommendation. That the billet head would be a step up from their modded head.
I am curious to hear too if there is some trick to less mess with the coolant. I already have it all over from taking the rear cooler off. Then got gear oil all over from splitting the chain case. Would like to try and avoid any more mess.
I know it may be more expensive than paint, have you though about powder coating your pipes? I have mine JET HOT coated and they haven't rusted like being painted.JeepTherapy said:
I think there are a couple of people on here that do powder coating thta may shoot you a fair deal. NO, I don't have any affiliation with anyone on here who offers powder coating 
. T
JeepTherapy
New member
I am going to use ceramic coating on mine. Bakes on by running them on the sled. Somehow I have to manage to get them on with out scratching them before I bake them. I may just set up an oven to bake them. The stuff is kind of spendy but hopefully it will be worth it in the end. This can was $75
JeepTherapy
New member
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/Exhaust.htm
Was $50 for 12oz plus whatever it was for shipping. They also had the shiny stuff but that takes a lot of work to polish out. They machine polish them in a bead bouncer. I am going for the heat control under the hood more than looks.
Was $50 for 12oz plus whatever it was for shipping. They also had the shiny stuff but that takes a lot of work to polish out. They machine polish them in a bead bouncer. I am going for the heat control under the hood more than looks.
I see. I went the route of powder coat to try to help gain some performance and to help with the rust issue. Then it also crossed my mind after they were installed what are people going to think when I open the hood?!JeepTherapy said: