Fro
New member
Added Viper rears & new Hacksaw. Ran it on the stand...good tension...good alignment...slight rub on front protectors...everything sounds & looks good. I had to put her on the lawn & give it a whirl. Normal riding fine. Pulling a holeshot sounds like something is hitting bad. I ran the track real loose at first. Kept tightening it hoping the sound would go away, but it wont. Each time I Looked the track/skid/front protectors over well & can see no sign of a "Bad" issue in the making. The only thing I remotely saw were marks on the tunnel protectors towards the front. Not sure tho if it's from this or the other track. I can't find anything obvious. Any clues? I goosed it pretty good on the stand & it didn't do it. Only on the ground under full acceleration. I don't want to wreck anything.
1: chain jumping
2: front of rail hitting on track clips
3: suspesion not tight giving a false tension on the stand
4: rear of slides not ground tapered will cause a clicking sound
5: tunnel protectors tward the rear grabbing track when skid is compressed under launch
6: stud head not countersunk enough into track, thumping on upper shock mounts on front and rear arms
7: wore out drive cogs will jump no matter how tight the track is
other than that , i got nutin
2: front of rail hitting on track clips
3: suspesion not tight giving a false tension on the stand
4: rear of slides not ground tapered will cause a clicking sound
5: tunnel protectors tward the rear grabbing track when skid is compressed under launch
6: stud head not countersunk enough into track, thumping on upper shock mounts on front and rear arms
7: wore out drive cogs will jump no matter how tight the track is
other than that , i got nutin
bluewho
Active member
Could the secondary spring be to soft letting the clutch rattle in and out trying to get traction in the grass.
Fro
New member
bluewho said:Could the secondary spring be to soft letting the clutch rattle in and out trying to get traction in the grass.
I ran my other track on the grass & no issues. I've never messed with the clutching(YET).
Concept Carbon
New member
did you forget a washer or something ing your chaincase, i would do what betheviper sez check everything on his list.
and your positive you didnt pic up a rock or a stick.
also is the shock rubbing on a stud
and your positive you didnt pic up a rock or a stick.
also is the shock rubbing on a stud
Fro
New member
BETHEVIPER said:1: chain jumping
I'll pull it apart to check...chain tensioner finger tight right?
2: front of rail hitting on track clips
Could be on weight tranfer??? Why doesn't it do it on the stand, the track is tight up there then.3: suspesion not tight giving a false tension on the stand
Do you mean preloading? Skid/shocks etc are tight.
4: rear of slides not ground tapered will cause a clicking sound
Not this. I checked.
5: tunnel protectors tward the rear grabbing track when skid is compressed under launch
Not this. Only black marks are up front on tunnel protectors
6: stud head not countersunk enough into track, thumping on upper shock mounts on front and rear arms
Will Check. Why only under load on ground?
7: wore out drive cogs will jump no matter how tight the track is
They look fine. Worked recently with other track. How do you tell if the are bad?other than that , i got nutin
Thanks. I'll check it out hopefully tomorrow.
Fro
New member
BTW, what exactly is racheting? I know the loose track part...does it jump at the drivers or just slap around between the skid & tunnel.
Fro
New member
No rocks/sticks. I don't get why there is no problem when it's on the stand & I goose it hard.Concept Carbon said:did you forget a washer or something ing your chaincase, i would do what betheviper sez check everything on his list.
and your positive you didnt pic up a rock or a stick.
also is the shock rubbing on a stud
blue missile
New member
when you load up the track it will perform differently. rather than just dangling in the air. also you suspension in compressing when you run it .
shortstop20
New member
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2005
- Messages
- 1,583
- Age
- 38
- Location
- Stickney, South Dakota
- Website
- www.snowmobilefanatics.net
Ratcheting is when the drivers "skip" over the drive nipples on the track causing a ratcheting sound, like a ratcheting wrench. To check if your drivers are ratcheting, get under the sled with a flashlight and closely look and feel for worn off plastic on the drivers, rough edges, etc.
Last edited:
Fro
New member
shortstop20 said:Ratcheting is when the drivers "skip" over the drive nipples on the track causing a ratcheting sound, like a ratcheting wrench.
I've never heard that sound to compare it to...but it sounds like that is where it is coming from. It starts it 3-4 sled lengths after I nail it...not right from the get go.
shortstop20
New member
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2005
- Messages
- 1,583
- Age
- 38
- Location
- Stickney, South Dakota
- Website
- www.snowmobilefanatics.net
Check out my last post, I edited it with a little more info.
blue missile
New member
with the sled in the air how much sag do you have between the track and the slides without pulling it down with you're hands.
Fro
New member
blue missile said:with the sled in the air how much sag do you have between the track and the slides without pulling it down with you're hands.
Right now 1 1/4". I tried it really loose & really tight & it did the same thing.
Fro
New member
shortstop20 said:Check out my last post, I edited it with a little more info.
I'll try to tomorrow. I know in general they have scratches all over them but I would think thats common with trail sleds. The track being clipped every third wouldn't have anything to do with it?
Concept Carbon
New member
your track may jus tbe too loose yet. I woudl tighten it up untill when you pull down on the center you can only fit 2 fingers between it and the slides. then try it if ther eis no nois eyour track was to loose now lossen it abit at a time until it ratchets then tightin it up abit.
Exciterfan
Member
1 1/4" is a LOT of sag. Your probably ratcheting. My rule of thumb is enough sag for my little finger to just fit in between the track and the slider (1/2" or so). Works well and helps slow down the wear on the sliders.
The OEM recommendation (x amount of gap with Y amount of weigth applied)will usually give you zero sag with just the weight of the track. 1 1/4" is a LOT.
Tighten it up a bit a see how it goes.
Len
The OEM recommendation (x amount of gap with Y amount of weigth applied)will usually give you zero sag with just the weight of the track. 1 1/4" is a LOT.
Tighten it up a bit a see how it goes.
Len
mod-it
Member
Definitely sounds like ratcheting. Makes you freak when you hear it the first time, doesn't it? It's amazing how tight you have to run the track, really steals a lot of ponies. Can't wait to get anti-ratchet drivers. Tighten it like they said, one or two fingers, that should get you pretty close. Go up one turn on each side until it stops, if it's still doing it. Be careful when testing it, my cousin spun his down to almost nothing in just one shot when it slipped.
I think it's ratcheting too and I agree that 1 1/4 in. is a lot of sag.
You're running on grass so it gives more traction than on snow. Mine did the same thing last year when I put a 1.25 track in it. I had just serviced the chaincase and thought maybe I had forgot to tighten something but it's the track that was ratchething all along.
You're running on grass so it gives more traction than on snow. Mine did the same thing last year when I put a 1.25 track in it. I had just serviced the chaincase and thought maybe I had forgot to tighten something but it's the track that was ratchething all along.
A K MtnViper
New member
the only reason the factorys don't put anti-ratchet drivers on from the get go, is to sell more hyfax.