Will a 1.325in. stud(1in. Track).....

are you thinking of running a 1.325 stud in a 1 inch track, if so thats way to big they will most likely bend and break i wouldnt go anybigger then a 1.175 on a 1 inch track.


My buddy runs 1.325 with 1.250 track on his srx 3 seasons
 
Yes that what Im thinkin of doing using taller nuts and square angled backers. The guy I bought my trailer off of had a 06 Doo GSX600 1in track and 1.325in studs. All he used was the taller nuts and made up some thicker tunnel protectors and never had an issue.
 
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ok thats crazzy i woudlnt do it IMO your gona kill your track. with 1.175s you have like .400 penitration. with 1.325s it will be around .575 penitration thats crazzy.

I run 1.175s with a 1 in track 144 down the middle and ended up breaking and bending around 48 studs last season. these studs look huge in my track.
 
I know many guys that run 1.32 studs in 1" tracks they hook up awesome on ice.I was thinking of doing the same thing.I'm not shure if they will clear on the proaction cheasis.
 
Yea from the looks of your track/stud I would diff. go with the taller nut with the 1.325. If I end up just going with 1.175, Ill still prolly use the med tall nut to lessen the chance of braking/bending. The med tall nuts may take a little penetration away but I cant see it being all that much.

Pro116 ice/hard pack is where most of my time will be spent on my SRX thats my of reasoning behind the idea of running 1.325's on a 1in track. Now I just need to know if theyll clear the exchangers of not. Stronger/Thicker tunnel protectors will be part of my plan for sure.
 
i have 1.175" studs on a 1" track and there looks to be plently of penetration, definately better be careful with studs bending and breaking. That does seem a little excessive lol but whatever works for ya
 
Ouch, I feel sorry for you track if you do it. Hope this is for short drags, cause the rotating mass is really going to kill your top end performance. All depends on your purpose though and how often you are running on ice.
 
LOL I cant believe all the negative feedback Im getting from this. Curious any of you guys commenting negative done this before??? Just wondering cause I know 3 "DOO" guys that have ran this type of setup for 4000+miles on Michigan Trails/Lakes with minimal tear outs, bends, and breaks.

All I need to know is if these studs will clear SRX exchangers. If so I MAY run them I may NOT. If I do, I guess we'll just have to see who gets to point the finger and say I told you so.
 
I had a 1 1/4 predator last year on my srx with 192 studs. I don't know the size of the studs but they had to be bigger than 1 1/4. I have 9 tooth drivers for sure because i had it out last year and compared when i switched to a speed track. I do have tunnel protectors also, so they should clear.
 
ExpertXViper said:
LOL I cant believe all the negative feedback Im getting from this. Curious any of you guys commenting negative done this before??? Just wondering cause I know 3 "DOO" guys that have ran this type of setup for 4000+miles on Michigan Trails/Lakes with minimal tear outs, bends, and breaks.

All I need to know is if these studs will clear SRX exchangers. If so I MAY run them I may NOT. If I do, I guess we'll just have to see who gets to point the finger and say I told you so.
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I was going to run that same setup on my 01 SRX,but after measureing it looked a little to close for comfort,so I went with some 1.187 and they work ok but don't work great on bare ice and i have 192 of them in a 1 inch predator,they might clear but when the track gets bigger at high speeds i think they will hit the front exchanger,Doos have a lot more clearance.
 
ExpertXViper said:
Curious any of you guys commenting negative done this before???
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No, good point. I've certainly never done it. Hell, I never even had studs until last year. My track stress comment is based on things I'm sure you've heard a 1000 times. As for the weight of all this extra hardware spinning around at 100+ MPH, well that's obviously simple physics. You are going to loose top end. who know how much and it totally depends if that even matters to you.

Hell I bought a fully clipped track when I could have saved on the extra weight. However, I wanted the extra track windows because of the marginal snow we get. I might actually remove some of the clips to reduce weight and keep them as spares.

Good luck!
 
If you spend you time on ice and hard pack, get rid of that track. Buy yourself a Camoplast 9791, and run 96 1.075" golddiggers. That is the lightest setup you can run, and the fastest track you can buy, next to a speed track.
 
The studs will catch the tunnel a bit at the rear, a bit at the front, and catch a bit in the middle. :) ...they only do it once though :)

Trail studs don't penetrate the ice anyways.......they gouge out the ice when you spin. Going with fewer studs gives you more weight per stud on the ice, which helps the penetration. Also, I've run this setup for years. There is no bending / breaking issues with the 5/16" studs. I like the woody's studs and washers since they are bigger, and give more support in the track.
 
This is the input Ive been looking for, thanks for the responses guys. The reason I plan on using trail studs is IF I ever noticed that our Michigan trails are SOMEWHAT groomed I still want to be able to run the SRX and not tear up the studs. I have to say when running the lakes Im more on hard pack then glare ice. Im not looking to do any timed racing just looking to get the power to the ground.

Yamaouch what brand of studs are you running?
 
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