Heel clicker help!

R

rhoag

New member
Joined
May 21, 2003
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68
Location
Appleton Wi
Well, I cheaped out. I posted on here in the wanted to buy section... wtb clutch kit for 02 viper. But, now I don't know if I bought the right thing. Are the 2nd generation 40-10 heel clickers the ones that you have to machine the clutch or it will explode? I have never used the HC. I have 40-10 2nd gen HC, red primary spring, 6mm rollers and a 46/38 helix. The guy I got this set-up from said that the stock secondary spring was used with this set-up. Do you think a green secondary spring at 60 or 70 percent would be better?
Thanks for any help.
 

the 2nd gen h/c's you will need to make a slight notch in the primary to clear the heel,they still work well. If you post a pic of the weight I could for sure tell you what ones you have, thanx
 
mrviper700 - he bought the ones I had. You do need to notch the primary.

rhoag - The setup I sold you came out of a viper so it should work - I think mrviper700 should be able to hopefully confirm this; or I'm sure he'll help you out.

xs
 
Ok xsivhp I just never used HC and was reading that some caused the clutch to explode if not machined. Wanted to make sure. Here's a pic.
 

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yep, youll need a little notch on the sheave but those ones dont have any exploding problesm, those were the hammer time 2 spd ones, I have used the ones you have before and never had any problems from them, they work well.
 
Here is a pic of a primary i notched out for the gen 1 hc,s. With your you don,t have to remove nearly as much material but it shows you the area you have to grind down so the heel will clear the moveable shive.
 

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I went out and put one on to see where it needed notched then didn't know how much. So took a pic or 2. When the movable shive is all the way closed Like in pic should the weight still be able to touch the roller? With the amount I took out so far it still hits the Shive before the roller.
 

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At full shift; if the heel still touches the moveable shive you gotta take more off.
 
Ok I think I have enough notched out but, have one last question. How freely should the weights pivot? They seem pretty tight and there is resistance to movement of the weights. I'm glad you guys keep checking back in on this thread i want to get this done today.
 
Well, i'm not going to get it done today. I filed down the flat side of each washer until the weight pivoted freely. But, now I have another question. How in the heck do you get that red spring on there? Man does that thing have tension compared to the stock spring...
 
easy way, peice of 1/2" all thread in a vise with a nut and a old wsher and track bearing, sit the clutch over the all thread and place spring in pocket and then the cover plate. thread the nut down with the bearing,washer and be carefull to line up the cover bushing to the shaft and then compress it, install cover bolts, very simple and easy to do, cheap as well.
 
Gee then I would have to take the primary off the sled. Anyway to do it on the sled other than superman compress the thing? I would need a gear puller to remove the primary.
 
unless you know superman i think you should pop the primany off and use the method mr viper said, it is the easyest way . dont use a gear puller ,you need the proper puller bolt. thread is 18mmx1.5,but i cant rember the length.
 
Here is a pic of my homemade compression tool for hc springs
 

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do not try to change the spring on the sled as they are insanely strong. i always put my knee on the cover and put all my weight on it while balancing and putting the bolts in, make a compressor like turk showed for $10 and save your knees. :o|
 
I picked up the right tool for the job from Rich.It is especially made to work with the long spring,precise tool..great idea for this operation.Tool fits in the clutch bushing exact and you guide the cover down as you turn the bolt on it.It was around $55.00.


Clutch Dummy Tool
dummytool.jpg


Description:

Precision machined from steel, the "Dummy Clutch Tool" allows you to remove and compress the drive clutch cover and spring without damage to any clutch components such as cover bushings or your knuckles. It can be used with the the clutch on or off the engine.Easy to use operation.


Price: $55.00
 
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i've only succeeded once in putting the primary spring on with the clutch on the sled, took 2 guys, i pushed the front cover on as hard as i could, which by the way is extremely hard, and then had to hold it there while my brother threaded some bolts in to hold it, would not recommend doing it this, lol could of resulted bad if something had of slipped. You could just pick up a clutch puller locally or maybe even a dealer or ty member in your area would let you borrow theirs, that would make it quick, easy, and the whole thing would involve a lot less swearing and throwing things
 
Woo hoow I did it on the sled and it was easy! Brain over braun. I put the spring in the vise and compressed it to about 3 inches. Then I put 6 tiewraps on it, not on the edge but, one loop in from the end, so they could be cut off later. Then I was able to put it on and get all 6 bolts started. Once on I just cut the tiewraps and pulled them out.
 
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