I just cleaned the carbs again on my 03 viper tonight. I took the pilots out and thoroughly cleaned them, and then this time I blew compressed air through the part that the pilot screws into. I put everything back together and started it up. It seems to run pretty well, and it doesn't bog anymore when I give it hard throttle, but now my idle speed has increased to around 22-2300 rpm, and if I rev it up it takes awhile for it to slow down again. Why would my idle speed change? Is this a problem?
Another thing - I can't drive it around because there's no snow, but after sitting there for probably 5 min the engine temp light came on...is that normal? It's only 33 degrees. I lost some coolant when I took the carbs off, but there's plenty in the overflow tank.
Another thing - I can't drive it around because there's no snow, but after sitting there for probably 5 min the engine temp light came on...is that normal? It's only 33 degrees. I lost some coolant when I took the carbs off, but there's plenty in the overflow tank.
another thing that I forgot to mention, the floor was wet underneath the exhaust. I filled the tank half full with fresh gas when I got the sled out last week, but does this mean there's water in the fuel?
Sounds like you need to check the free play in the throttle cable. Did you mess with the air screws in the bottom of the carbs. Maxdlx
The throttle cable isn't tight, there is some free play. I never touched the air screws, but i noticed that there weren't in exactly the same position on all 3.
daman
New member
so I spose i have to pull the carbs out again, does it bother anything when you lose the coolant from the carb heaters?
daman
New member
well you don't want to keep doing it, pinch 'em off with vice grips or somthing so you don't loose coolant..RTYsxv said:
daman
New member
untill you get your carbs right just keep the lines plugged off, capped, so don't have to keep messing with them.
I stick a 1/4" bolt in there and put the clamp on so it doesn't leak, but there's still going to be air in the lines and in the carb passages when you put it all back together. I was wondering if the air bubbles bothered anything? or do they work their way out to the overflow tank?
daman
New member
I've never had a problem with that little bit of air, it'll work it's way out ok.
when your temp light came on did the coolers feel overly warm hot?
shouldn't have over heated in just 5 mins...
when your temp light came on did the coolers feel overly warm hot?
shouldn't have over heated in just 5 mins...
I didn't feel the coolers, but the coolant hose that goes to the heads was pretty warm. Could the overheating have something to do with the lean pilot mixture?
daman
New member
IMO no...not just idling
well I guess when I finally get snow to ride in we'll see about the overheating, I just want to get it running right. Tomorrow maybe I'll get a chance to mess with the air screws. Would having a lean idle mixture be the reason why it takes awhile to slow down after I rev it up? I've never had that happen before until now.
Also, how do I know when I have the mixture right
Also, how do I know when I have the mixture right
daman
New member
you bet, that will cause a hanging idle.RTYsxv said:
well to start adjust it to spec. a stock viper should be 1 7/8 turn out fromRTYsxv said:
a gentle seat and go from there, ya know ya got her right when the idle
comes down right away..
yamaholic22
Active member
those are actually fuel screws on the bottom of the carbs, not air screws. But yes check your throttle cable freeplay first, then check the idle screw setting on the top of the carb rack to make sure that is not holding the rpms that high, and then set the fuel screws. I have had good luck with most vipers around 2 turns out from lightly seated. Vipers are more finicky than others with idle down, and often you will find that with the fuel screws set right that it won't idle down fast after a hard run. Just blip the choke quick to get it down, or if it really bothers you, you can open up the fuel screws a bit more or set your idle a bit lower and it will drop to idle faster.
Have you tried to re adjust you idle...'cause if you had the cables off & did not do this kind of stuff often, then your cable is off ( too tight) & the throttle rail is hanging up hi causing your hi rpm idle...screw in your throttle cable till she drops down a bit more, while keeping the 2mm. throttle endplay & go back & drop down your idle screw till you reach 1500/1600 rpm...yes it will shake a little...you'll see now that it will not hang up...do a few throttle squeezes you will see…the reason it hangs up and take a long time to come down, its because your on a different fuel range within the carb (lack of better word) Ahhhh just came to me circuit…fuel circuit…read the tech section on cabs…great stuff…helped me a lot…cheers
daman
New member
boy wouldn't that be somthing if it just needed to be idled down some. lol
It's not the idle speed adjustment. The cable has enough free play, and the throttle rail comes all the way down. I've double checked all this, and checked it all while the engine is running and it made no difference with the idle hang.
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daman
New member
Adjust your pilot mixture screws yet?