break in with syn

Gary
Won't the premix foul the plugs in my warrior. LOL Just had to see your answer for that. Maxdlx
 
Redline racing oil say's do not break in on syn. oil. It says this right on the container. I always run mineral oil with oil injection and a little in the tank and heat cycle the motor.
 
The premix MAY foul the plugs,,,but,,, WHO CARES!!! I would rather foul a few plugs rather than waste a crankshaft!!!.. As far as REDLINE telling you NOT to run synthetic,, I disagree!! THE MOST heat created through FRICTION of dissimiliar metals, causes the MOST DESTRUCTION of cylinder rings ( which CREATES A GOOD SEAL).. WHY would you want to OVERHEAT the piston rings by LUBRICATION that ISNT AS GOOD????? Its common sense?????????? WHY would you want to create an UNFAVORABLE condition??? You guys need to learn a little about heating up metals and the detrimental effects associated with that!!!! heating up rings is NO GOOD for your motor!!! ESPECIALLY NEW RINGS!!!!! WHY WOULD YOU WANT INFERIOR LUBRICATION?????? WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO RUIN YOUR MOTOR PREMATURELY?????? I just CANT understand the STUPIDITY????????????
 
JeepTherapy said:
Correct me if I am wrong, But ConceptCarbon talked about disconnecting the oil injection and running premix. So what difference does that make in jetting? In the end he is still passing the same fuel/oil mixture to the motor as if he was running it with the oil injection isn't he?
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the fuel system meters fuel in a specific volume - when you displace fuel with oil in premix, you are in fact leaning the mixture (although at 50:1 a very minute amount). During a break-in, you would limit your wop anyway, so I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Years ago I remember talking with the Buick 3800 V6 engine guys when I worked at GM about synthetic motor oil. They sold me on the benefits, but told me that you should still break in a new motor with conventional oil and switch to synthetic after the motor had 5-7,000 miles on it. Sorry that I dont remember the reasoning on this. I have had several vehicles that I have broken in with conventional and switched to synthetic oil after 5,000 miles. 150,000 later they would use less than 1/2 a quart of oil between my 7,000 mile oil change schedule.

The funny thing is that as much as I see the benefit of synthetic oil and use them in my vehicles, I will continue to use Yamalube in my Viper. I got over 7,000 miles out of my Viper motor and never touched it. I am sure it would have gone further if the motor was fogged at the end of each season. As long as I can buy Yamalube for $16 per gallon, I cant see spending more on oil no matter how good it is.

Just my 2 cents. G.B.
 
Energy Release Yes or NO?

Gary do you think Energy Release can prevent break in? I have just installed new rings in my 780 and am about to break in with Klotz. My oil tank has ER mixed with Klotz from last season.

Here is an artical that SRXer found somewhere on the web. I wonder if its true. I also am thinking I should break in with dino (one tank of premix) then switch to Klotz & ER mix. After carefully reading the artical it does not discuss if ER was used during break in or added later. If added after break in why did the motor then decrease in HP? Something does not add up.

Here is the artical,
Energy Release hit the snowmobile market back in 1995. It was marketed as the great "do all" additive. Guys were adding it to chaincases, oil injection systems, and even baking roller bearings in their wive's ovens with the stuff. Apparently it's a heat activated additive that's supposed to place a protective coating on the metal. There was an experiment conducted where it was added to the oil injection tank of a performance snowmobile. The sled was run for several hundred miles and tested on a dyno. The before and after results showed that the motor LOST power after using ER. It wasn't until the motor was disassembled and the cylinders re-honed and new rings installed that it regained the lost power. Apparently the ER did place some kind of coating on the metals surface because blow-by was determined to be the cause of the power loss.

Now with that said, here's my experiance. I used it in the chaincase of one of my sleds during the winter of "96-"97. Prior to adding ER, the magnetic dip stick in the chaincase would be completely covered with metel whiskers after 1000 miles. After adding the ER, the metal whiskers vanished completely. I also shot the chaincase with a infrared temp sensor. The case temp dropped 40 degrees while being used in severe, deep snow conditions. I've been using it ever since and never had a case failure. Still, the ST hasn't had any history of rear end failures. I'm comfortable using Mobil 1 by itself with no additives.
 
Yes,,, ER could and PROBABLY WOULD prevent break in!!!! The way ER works is that it FILLS IN the Crooks and crannies and produces a SMOOTHER FINISH!!!!!! Thus preventing break in!!! if a motor can't break in,, the rings will have a hardtime sealing. If the motor has a hard time sealing,,,, the compression will be down and the blowby UP!!! Less compression,,, less horsepower,,, More compression,,, more horsepower!!!!! Although Synthetic oil helps SLOW DOWN the break in process,,, its NOTHING LIKE ER!!!! The Federal government has been using ER since the second world war,,, with ASTRONOMICAL RESULTS!!!! As far as using it with your INJECTED OIL or premix,,,, I would NOT do that!!!!!
 
just broke in my srx on syn amsoil......ran 2 heat cool cycles then retorqued....ran sled rpms up on down while driving not coasting for about 50 miles or so.....sled didnt have the zip to it off the bat but after a tank of fuel runs great no probs using interceptor.....
 
This thread reminded me of a quote by John Lingenfelter and he said: "if the rings don't seat within the first few seconds of starting the engine, they probably never will"... :rofl:
 
Here is what I think is good.....

I still think using full syn oil will take longer to break in. Also I think doing the premix is not needed for the break in. I would just wire tie the oil cable shut untill you do the first 3 heat cycles then cut the zip tie and run it like you usually do. The full syn is slippery enough and no need to add premix.

I am going to break in my second sled this year yet and do what I said above.

I do believe it will still take one full tank of running to completely break the rings in. Also during the first tank I would like to do at least 3 wot

One more thing. I do not want to go through the whole hassle of changing the oils in the tank each time. (there is still the old oil in the bottom of the tank & the line anyhow & doing the premix,

I also actually believe you can just hold the oil cable shut for the first 15 seconds of starting the sled and let it run like normal will work on break in because the full syn is slick enough and to much will just make it worse.

Remember we are talking about better oils here and newer engines then back in the day.

So take it for what it is worth to you and good luck with what ever you do.;)!
 
broke in my 00 srx7, @ the beginning of the season with amsoil intcptr. just took it easy first 20 miles or so varying rpms. let it cool then rode like usual after that, coming up on 2500 miles since w/ no issues
 
staggs65 said:
broke in my 00 srx7, @ the beginning of the season with amsoil intcptr. just took it easy first 20 miles or so varying rpms. let it cool then rode like usual after that, coming up on 2500 miles since w/ no issues
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That is go to hear it worked for you. ;)!
 
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