break in with syn

I don't think anyone has "proof"(post if you do) that one way or the other
is better......but,,, IMO from my knowledge on fluids, it just.. "makes sense"
to use conventional for break in's.

i've worked on to many big dollar pice's of equipment that do not spec
syn. fluids for break in...
 
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I used to break in on dino oil instead of synthetic. I would suck all of the synthetic out of the tank and run dino oil for the first two tanks, then switch back to synthetic. Then a few times I did not have time to do all of that and just broke in on synthetic oil. My leakdown numbers definately did not go down after breaking in on synthetic instead of dino. I always seem to have strong running sleds as well compared to others with the same :)
 
daman said:
I don't think anyone has "proof"(post if you do) that one way or the other
is better......but,,, IMO from my knowledge on fluids, it just.. "makes sense"
to use conventional for break in's.

i've worked on to many big dollar pice's of equipment that do not spec
syn. fluids for break in...
Click to expand...


Now your comparing apples to oranges. Those big dollar peices your talking about, how many of those are diesel/4 strokes?????

BTW you know Yamalube is a syn. blend/semi syn(as Yami calls it) right?


NOW I'm done!!!!!LOL
 
ExpertXViper said:
You were instructed to break your rings in by running it on a stand????? I seriously hope not, you can start the break in period on a stand. BUT I diff. wouldnt stop there with the break in period. When yours sleds on a stand the engine is LOADED very little when just spinning the clutch or track. Compared to pushing the weight of the machine AND you when its on the ground.
Click to expand...

mrviper700 said:
the new rings and platings of today will be fine with just a couple of heat cycles, then ride the sled as normal, you can simply heat cycle it 2 times in the garage, run engine varying throttle till warmed up, let cool and repeat, thats all I ever do and I have never had a failure yet using this method of break in.
Click to expand...

That was what I went by. He also posted essentially the same information in a couple other places. I trusted MrViper700s methods. Is that wrong? Do I need to do something different?
 
ExpertXViper said:
Now your comparing apples to oranges. Those big dollar peices your talking about, how many of those are diesel/4 strokes?????

BTW you know Yamalube is a syn. blend/semi syn(as Yami calls it) right?


NOW I'm done!!!!!LOL
Click to expand...
^ lol

Not talking just engines here, rear ends,front ends,gear box's, Hyd. pumps
final drives,etc,etc., i talking in general. :)
 
But anyway ya i'm done too, he'll have enough reading to do when he gets
on to make up his own mind......lol
 
hey concept do what you think its better for u but don;t use synthetic for break in ... ill send u some picture of my piston with a synthetic break in lollll... those rings will never seal properly
 
JeepTherapy said:
That was also my understanding, well not actually more oil than gas, but too much oil for the amount of gas resulting in a lean motor. But I understood what you meant.


I was also under the impression that synthetic was detrimental to engine break in. Like modsrx and daman said, to slippy, slick, slippery or whatever, for the friction required between the new rings and the cylinders for run in. So why not just run the premix with the oil injection disabled long enough to seat the rings? I did my break in on a stand in my garage with conventional oil, as instructed to do so.
Click to expand...


That's exactly what I would do.
Synthetic oil is too slippery for any engine to break in correctly.

JME ;)!
 
I broke in my srx last winter with amsoil.
I spent hours and hours and HOURS of reading about
the benefit of break-ins with sythetic vrs walmart brand, I mean yamalube.
I used all my yamalube in my burn barrel! LOL!
Cheers,
Rick.
 
i have seen yammyrider's piped sx700r run better on a fresh re-ring with dino oil. he had synthetic amsoil in there and it was running like a bag of crap right at the beginning of the ride as synthetic was still in the lines. he had siphoned it out and put dino oil in there before we left. by the time we made the 1st stop it was running fine. ran that tank of oil down and put his synthetic back in. still runs like a champ.
 
lol, ok alot of mixed opinions. I have broken in my dirt bikes with honda 100 hp2 syn and havent had any issues honda actually recomended it.

So after reading all this Ive come to the conclusion that im just going to disconect the oil cable. and run pre mix for a full tank.


all though I have done a couple heat cycles with syn. Just couldnt resist had to here it with my srx pipes.

I wonder if later down the road people will be saying only use syn oil for break in becaue it takes longer and will alow your rings to break in evenly, and not wear to quickly..



lol Joke.


Thanks fo rall the info guys.
 
Concept Carbon said:
So after reading all this Ive come to the conclusion that im just going to disconect the oil cable. and run pre mix for a full tank.
Click to expand...
she'll still be pumping oil......
 
I will be breaking my brand new pistons and rings in with 100% amsoil. I will keep ya posted on how it goes :letitsnow :letitsnow :letitsnow
 
SYNTHTIC oil is JUST FINE for break in!!!! i could spend an HOUR typing up a 5000 word paper on the effects and pro's and cons,,,but,,, DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY by dumping perfectly good synthetic oil because you want to BREAK a motor in with oil that LUBRICATES LESS than synthetic.... Considering the NEW RINGS and honejob are DESIGNED to break in ALMOST IMMEDIATELY,,,, you would THINK that BETTER LUBRICATION would outweigh WORSE LUBRICATION!!!!! NEW RINGS NEED synthetic oil JUST THAT MUCH MORE and ESPECIALLY when the friction is at its HIGHEST!!!!! HEATING THE MOTOR UP and letting it cool down and RETORQUING is the MOST IMPORTANT thing you should be worrying about!!!!! I RUN THEM UP AND DOWN continuously for a FEW MINUTES (about TWO MINUTES) and shut it off,,,, RETORQUE,,,,,let it cool down ,,, RUN IT AGAIN for about 4 minutes ( ALSO UP AND DOWN 1000-4000rpms) shut it off,, let it cool down,,, YOU COULD retorque again,,, but UNNECESSARY!!! STart it up and drive it around (stopped to 35 or 40mph and back to stopped) UP AND DOWN for 20 minutes and take it home and let it cool down!!! the UP AND DOWN and LETTING it cool off between rounds is NECESSARY to make everything break in properly... Keep using SYNTHETIC oil and HAPPY TRAILS!!! gary Oles nosboy
 
This is MY METHOD!!! it works FINE!!!! If you premix,,,, WHATEVER,,,,,,, the MORE OIL THE MERRIER!!!! It will SMOKE LIKE HEll,,,,,but,,,, WHO CARES (unless you're a TREE HUGGER) I would rather have TOO MUCH OIL than NOT ENOUGH!!!!! HEAT is your ENEMY when BREAKING in a fresh motor!!! The friction is ASTRONOMICALLY HIGH with NEW RINGS AND A fresh honejob!!!! You will NEVER get that cylinder wall and rings as hot as you do when you first start a NEW MOTOR!!!! ( UNLESS YOU RUN IT OUT OF OIL) if you DO run it out of oil... EVERYTHING will MELT TOGETHER!!! (hopefully) MY POINT IS,,,, BREAK IN WITH SYNTHETIC,,, RUN PREMIX,,,, HEAT IT UP, RETORQUE, cool it down and REPEAT!!!! You'll be FINE!!!
 
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