nitris223
New member
I am in the process of intalling a longer track onto my wife's SXR 600. I have everything I need I thought. I bought the longer drop brackets from a Viper mountain but only the rear ones. Now do I need the center suspension brackets for in the tunnel or is there enough meat there to just drill another hole, or do I need to drop the center one at all.
gild
New member
L Tracking
Need More Info how long, what rails, are you wanting to relocate suspension, lug height etc
Need More Info how long, what rails, are you wanting to relocate suspension, lug height etc
nitris223
New member
121" skid with tracks USA extension out to 144. I have Rear viper mtn drop brackets. The skid will stay in the same location but I was wondering if I need to relocate the center suspension hole lower to work with the Viper drop brackets. Track lug is 1.25".
gild
New member
long tracking
If you are staying in the stock mount holes at the front W arm and you drop the rear down you will have to relocate the centre shaft down also. Why the Mnt Viper drop plates if your not moving W arm suspension point and using extensions to make your 121 a 144.
If you are staying in the stock mount holes at the front W arm and you drop the rear down you will have to relocate the centre shaft down also. Why the Mnt Viper drop plates if your not moving W arm suspension point and using extensions to make your 121 a 144.
nitris223
New member
I wanted the drop brackets to raise the rear of the sled a little. I was trying them in place and it looks like I would need a shorter cross shaft also. I might just sell the mtn viper drop brackets and go with some other brand or make my own. More or less I am trying to make it look like a mtn max without relocating the skid. I thought the mtn brackets would rivet into the same place as the SXR brackets.
nitris223
New member
Just did a some measuring for the drop brackets. Looks like the max I can drop the rear is 2.25 inches. So from what I have been reading I need to drop the center hole half the rear distance which would be 1.125 inches . This just leaves enough meat on the inside plate to support the center cross shaft. Does this sound right.
The last sled I did this on was a 91 Indy 500. But there are only 2 mounting points 3 inches at the rear and 1.5 inches at the front.
I am contemplating making my own drop brackets out of stainless steel.
The only thing I can not wrap my head around is the center hole needing to be moved. I was looking at the suspension on the bench and when you rotate the rear torque arm and center mounting shaft it seems like you could put it high , low, foward and back. Almost like you could bolt up the rear shaft and rotate the center one back to the original hole. Now this seems to work on the bench but in the sled may be different. I haven't played much with Yamaha suspensions.
Does anybody out there have drop brackets on a SXR tunnel that could give me some measurements.
I know that if I swing the suspension with it bolted with only the front arm it will swing in a arc. So if I drop 2.25 inches how much forward should I go. 1/8th on a inch or will it work if I just go straight down.
The wife likes the way they look with the rear raised so I am trying to do the best possible but this was a summer project that I couldnt get to and now it is time fix other peoples sleds for money so I can only work on hers when it is slow or late at night but need to get it completed before the snow flies or I might as well move a bed into the garage for the winter.
The last sled I did this on was a 91 Indy 500. But there are only 2 mounting points 3 inches at the rear and 1.5 inches at the front.
I am contemplating making my own drop brackets out of stainless steel.
The only thing I can not wrap my head around is the center hole needing to be moved. I was looking at the suspension on the bench and when you rotate the rear torque arm and center mounting shaft it seems like you could put it high , low, foward and back. Almost like you could bolt up the rear shaft and rotate the center one back to the original hole. Now this seems to work on the bench but in the sled may be different. I haven't played much with Yamaha suspensions.
Does anybody out there have drop brackets on a SXR tunnel that could give me some measurements.
I know that if I swing the suspension with it bolted with only the front arm it will swing in a arc. So if I drop 2.25 inches how much forward should I go. 1/8th on a inch or will it work if I just go straight down.
The wife likes the way they look with the rear raised so I am trying to do the best possible but this was a summer project that I couldnt get to and now it is time fix other peoples sleds for money so I can only work on hers when it is slow or late at night but need to get it completed before the snow flies or I might as well move a bed into the garage for the winter.
nitris223 said:The last sled I did this on was a 91 Indy 500. But there are only 2 mounting points 3 inches at the rear and 1.5 inches at the front.
So if I drop 2.25 inches how much forward should I go. 1/8th on a inch or will it work if I just go straight down.
I remember this feature on the older indy's, but I can't remember how much offset the holes were as they dropped. A couple of other things to remember if you are lengthening the track. Your original set-up has a progressive downward angle already, when you lengthen it the rear contact point of the track will be considerable lower. Depends on how much "lift" you are looking for? IMO, the most important thing will be getting the position of your front mount in order to maintain the correct "contact patch" on the base of your track. Another factor will be if you plan to raise the front suspension or leave stock. If you make your own brackets leave yourself room for multiple holes for trial. I put an M-10 skid in my SX a couple years ago, works and looks great, take your time.
gild
New member
L Tracking
The easiest way since you are using the stock suspension is to make a template out of cardboard or something and mark the three mount points. The front W arm mount point you said will be stock so using the template if you drop the rear
2 1/2" the mark would be there for your centre mount hole. You will have to do it from the inside but the track and suspension is out anyways. Don't drop it too much because the front W arm can hit the drive cogs also you will put too much ski pressure on the sled and you will be sleeping in the garage. With the SX the sit in of the front suspension makes the rear of the skid off the ground but thats the nature of the sled. Making the rear sit flat is not the way to go on that sled
Also on the SX the rear mount shaft is tunnel width so to add drop plates you will be bending the tunnel unless you machine off the width of the drop brackets both sides. Not a problem but just FYI
Good Luck
The easiest way since you are using the stock suspension is to make a template out of cardboard or something and mark the three mount points. The front W arm mount point you said will be stock so using the template if you drop the rear
2 1/2" the mark would be there for your centre mount hole. You will have to do it from the inside but the track and suspension is out anyways. Don't drop it too much because the front W arm can hit the drive cogs also you will put too much ski pressure on the sled and you will be sleeping in the garage. With the SX the sit in of the front suspension makes the rear of the skid off the ground but thats the nature of the sled. Making the rear sit flat is not the way to go on that sled
Also on the SX the rear mount shaft is tunnel width so to add drop plates you will be bending the tunnel unless you machine off the width of the drop brackets both sides. Not a problem but just FYI
Good Luck
nitris223
New member
I think 2.5 inch drop will be lots and that is the least I can do in order to get the bolt hole to clear the coolers on the running boards. 2.5 at the rear hole should raise the very rear of the sled about 5 inches when the tunnel extension is on.
The template inside sound like the way I need to go and the brackets will be made out of the same thickness as the original brackets but out of stainless steel and then a reinforcement bracket shaped to fit closely to the cooler and rivited near the edge of the running board.. Basically the rear bolt head will clear the cooler by 1/8 " if I drop 2.25 inches and the center shaf will still have full support on the middle bracket. Any more drop and I will need to fill in a little piece on the center bracket.
Going to have to wait until Monday to get some steel so that gives me a little time to make some templates .
Anybody have a picture of a SX stretched using the original mounting holes. Would like to see what it looks like.
The template inside sound like the way I need to go and the brackets will be made out of the same thickness as the original brackets but out of stainless steel and then a reinforcement bracket shaped to fit closely to the cooler and rivited near the edge of the running board.. Basically the rear bolt head will clear the cooler by 1/8 " if I drop 2.25 inches and the center shaf will still have full support on the middle bracket. Any more drop and I will need to fill in a little piece on the center bracket.
Going to have to wait until Monday to get some steel so that gives me a little time to make some templates .
Anybody have a picture of a SX stretched using the original mounting holes. Would like to see what it looks like.
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gild
New member
nitris223
New member
Gild Nice looking Yamaha. You used 141" rails which have the transfer rods mounted further back than a SXR which would move the rear mounting position. Going to see if I can do the cardboard template or weld some sort of jig to go by. Just finished fitting up the extensions today. What I should of did was get 141 rails and relocated the skid.
nitris223
New member
Well I made a little progress with the SXR 144" conversion. Got the extensions fittend and bolted up . Looks good so far. Also moved the front idler wheel ahead 1.5" to try and help with the hyfax wear. Trying some graphite sliders this time. Brand new sliders last winter with about 200 miles on them and only one showed wear at the curve in the rails. Started thinking something was bent in the rails . After a hour of measuring at different points , things are straight. Must of had something stuck in there.
Tonight hopefully I can make some stainless steel drop brackets and get them lined up to figure out where to drill the hole.
Tonight hopefully I can make some stainless steel drop brackets and get them lined up to figure out where to drill the hole.
nitris223
New member
Got the drop brackets made and bolted on and the holes drilled. The rear mount hold I dropped 2.25 inches which ended up dropping the center on just about 1 .25. The rear hole move about 1/8 of a inch forward of center and the center hole was just of center almost straight down. Put the brackets on with stainless steel rivits. If these don't stay tight I will use aircraft rivits.
Is there any chance of the rail tips comming in contact with the drive cog now that I have dropped the rear of the suspension.
Now just to do some painting of the tunnel extension and the trailing arms and she will be ready to go back together.
Is there any chance of the rail tips comming in contact with the drive cog now that I have dropped the rear of the suspension.
Now just to do some painting of the tunnel extension and the trailing arms and she will be ready to go back together.
nitris223
New member
Finally got the track in the sxr longtrack conversion. 2.5 inch dropbrackets moves the rear of the tunnel to a height of 24 inches. I think I am going to need a longer snow flap. Looks good so far . But need to see it with a longer flap . How much longer is the mtn max snow flap than the short track sleds.
Silver paint that I got from a body shop didn't quite match but you really don't see much anyways. Next time I think I will strip the paint instead. I will post some pictures when I get it all done. Hope momma likes it.
Silver paint that I got from a body shop didn't quite match but you really don't see much anyways. Next time I think I will strip the paint instead. I will post some pictures when I get it all done. Hope momma likes it.
nitris223
New member
Looking good, maybe in a few years I will stretch mine out to a 136....
nitris223
New member
To be honest I wouldn't really bother with a 136". My old Polaris was a 136" and when I went to 144" with tip up rails it was the best of both worlds. These are 144" extensions and you can see where the tip up actually starts. It's right where the old wheels would have been in 121" form. Should handle close to a short track on the trails and much better off trail. This adds about 12" of extra track for offtrail. 136" will only give you about 7" extra. JMO. The tip ups make a difference.
nitris223
New member
I dont do a lot of off trail riding thats why I figured a 136....
nitris223
New member
cole55 I also find that the 144 bridges the bumps better. They groom here way to early in the start of the year and operate with a 4 inch base at max. Then you throw the idiots into the equation and you have some chewed up trail pretty quick, especially in the corners. The snowmobile club says it cost alot to groom the trails. I ask them why do you go out so early. I said to let the guys that can't wait to pack the trail, run in for new sliders and ski's ( good for the dealers) get another batch of snow and let them pack it again. Then go an groom it. I don't think they should groom here until at least January. When they went out the first time, the snow was only a day or so old and 7 inches of fluff. They barley had 2 inches. They have grommed it a second time and now there is black dirt showing in places.