Cannot Bleed Coolant!

G

Gone Blue

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Age
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Location
Highland, MI
:o| :o| :o| I am so frustrated right I am about to cut the fuel line and toss a lit match under the hood and call it a day.

I was able to start my new motor for the first time today and all went well. I had read all the old posts on bleeding the coolant and I think I have tried most all of them with no luck.

I first filled the system with the rear 18 - 20"in the air and the heat exhanger screw out.

I then raised the front maybe 13 - 15" and ran it with the coolant bottle cap off.

I then backed out the carb heat knob so coolant was running out the bottom valve screw hole.

After the motor has run a few minutes I can get coolant to run out of the top valve hole when I remove the cap. But I can only run the motor 5 - 6 minutes before the temp light comes on and heat exchangers have never got warm yet.

What am I doing wrong? Thank you in advanced for any input.

G.B.
 
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not sure if they have a thermostat in viper but they do in srx maybe its stock close
 
there was a campaign about the coolant temperature sending unit on 02 vipers.. I had a FEW of them... The first was in Eagle river and I went to HECKELS and told them about the light!!!!! They sold me a new plug and new connectors (kit) for the temp sending unit and it worked FINE!!!! MY POINT IS that MAYBE you ae having that wiring problem and your sled is really fine?????
 
modsrx - Yes, Vipers have a thermostat. Does coolant not run through the heat exchangers until the thermostat opens? I was probably able to run the motor 10 minutes or so when I first started it. The very front part of one of the running board heat exchangers was sort of starting to warm. I am not sure.

nosboy - I suppose the temp sensor is a possiblity. But shouldnt I be able to feel the heat exchangers start to warm after running for 10 minutes in 22 degree weather?

Thanks, G.B.
 
well if its stock close it will heat the heat exchanger but on the reverse side till u overheat ... hard to explain but u can try to remove the thermostat to see if something is wrong ??do u see something moving in your reservoir ...or if its was all empty sometime its hars to bleed them .......raise the front of the sled and try to remove a hose where it come back to the motor and add some coolant to bleed the heat exchanger
 
YES, goneblue,,, the heat exchangers SHOULD be warm after 10 minutes even it its zero outside!!! it seemed a little wierd flashing after 5 or 6 minutes though,,,, Maybe try and BLOW INTO the resevoir with the cap off while having the screw loosened in the rear heat exchanger... You want to try and get some pressure in the resevoir ( you're not going to get much with just your mouth) but,,, maybe there is an air bubble holding you up!!!!
 
Gone Blue said:
But I can only run the motor 5 - 6 minutes before the temp light comes on and heat exchangers have never got warm yet.
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your water pump working? is it turning?

what was done to the motor?
 
you really need to bleed the back when its like 2' in the air, then raise the front and bleed it there, after that let the sled idle for a while with the cap off and rev the sled up just under engagement, you should see the coolant drop. that is exactly how i had to do mine and it took me quite awhile to figure that out.
 
Thanks everyone for their input. I greatly appreciate it!

Here is a little more background. I seized a crank bearing 1st trip last year. Over the summer I had the crank rebuilt and I installed new OEM pistons and rings, along with new base and cylinder head gaskets, and a rear SRX heat exchanger. The motor had 7,000 miles on it and was never touched.

I did not take the water pump shaft and impeler apart. It looked real clean with no corrosion or leaking seals. I made sure that I had the water pump gear properly meshed with the crank when I assembled the case.

So I started with a completely empty cooling system today. When I filled the system with coolant I had the rear of the sled in the air and the rear heat exchanger bleed screw out. I was able to get over a gallon of coolant into the system by squeezing the top hose between the thermostat and the head. I was able to shoot coolant out the rear bleed screw hole so I know I have coolant back there.

After running the motor I am building pressure in the system, but I cannot tell if I am getting flow. Is it possible that I am just not getting the front or the rear of the sled high enough? (13" front / 18" rear)

G.B.
 
should be ok ... you must have air trap somewhere .....at level do u have any coolant at the rear now ???
 
you shouldn't need to get it that high,when ever i bleed a system i just put it up on my hand stand and that's only about 6 or 8" over level..

i can't see that mich air being in the ststem if you pulled the bleed
sqrews., wasn't there a problem with the impeller gear spining on the shaft
roll pin or somthing sheard??
 
modsrx - When I had pressure in the system and the sled was level, I could not see coolant in the rear bleed hole. But if I squeezed the upper coolant hose off the head coolant would shoot out the rear bleed hole.

daman - I am not sure what you mean about spinning impeler or sheared roll pin. Mine appeared to be intact when I had it a part. I had the rear of the sled up on my track stand on two 4x4's.

G.B.
 
Gone Blue said:
modsrx - When I had pressure in the system and the sled was level, I could not see coolant in the rear bleed hole.
Click to expand...
if it is full like it should you will have cooant flowing out.


Gone Blue said:
daman] - I am not sure what you mean about spinning impeler or sheared roll pin.
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i remeber last year somone had a problem, the gear that meshes with the crank gear on the impellar shaft spun on the shaft instead of turning the shaft, but only when it warmed up..
 
theblues said:
G.B. did you get the info I sent...
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blues I did, thank you. Although I did not try your valve mod as I was toooooooooooo excited to start my motor and hear it run. Maybe I should have in heinesite. G.B.
 
daman said:
if it is full like it should you will have cooant flowing out.



i remeber last year somone had a problem, the gear that meshes with the crank gear on the impellar shaft spun on the shaft instead of turning the shaft, but only when it warmed up..
Click to expand...

daman, well then I must still have air in the system because coolant has yet to run out the rear bleed screw hole on its own. I am going to get at it again tomorrow and see what I can do. I am going to try the trick a friend used to bleed his Polaris XC. He put the rightside ski on a milk crate with the skid and left ski on the ground. The theory is to make sure the coolant bottle is the highest point. G.B.
 
yea somthings not right, i can go out to any my sleds pull the bleeder bolt and coolant will pure out..you gota hose pinched front or back??
 
daman said:
yea somthings not right, i can go out to any my sleds pull the bleeder bolt and coolant will pure out..you gota hose pinched front or back??
Click to expand...

I knew this was going to be a pain after reading all of the posts on this subject, but I was hoping I would get lucky. I just dont know. It doesnt help that I am trying to finish up a complete rebuild of my sled before we try and head for the UP on Tuesday of this week.

I will look over the hoses tomorrow. I know when I squeeze the top hose off the head you can hear is gurgle in the rear exchanger.

G.B.
 
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