Cannot Bleed Coolant!

Gone Blue said:
I have looked at the part exploded views and my shop manual and like you both said it is not very clear. The only thig that makes sense to me is the the water pump feeds up through the bottom of the t/s housing. The front side of the t/s housing goes to the head and the rear of the t/s housing feeds the right side heat exchanger. The only thing I am not sure on is were the left side heat exchanger feeds into.

Before I tear more of my sled apart, I am going to test the t/s since I have it out. I am also going to test my theory on the path of coolant flow and turn the motor over with the t/s cover off. If I am right, coolant should fly out at my face.

Thanks daman and theblues for your help! G.B.
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GB - This may be a really stupid suggestion, but is it possible to run the sled W/O the thermostat? At least then you should get coolant flow if the water pump is working. I used to do this with cars when I was young and poor to see if the overheating was a plugged rad or bad thermostat.....
 
mrviper700 said:
they do indeed have a flow direction in the manual, you need to have the correct manual for the correct sled. Look in the 2002 tech update manual page 2-55.
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mrviper700,

Actually, can you just tell me the flow of coolant through the motor? Does coolant flow from the head down in the case to the pump? Or does the coolant flow from the pump up through to the head?

I found a clearer page in my Viper Suplement shop manual so I understand the cooling system layout. My manual does not show the flow.

I am thinking or hoping my problem is bad thermostat. I now need to steal one of my wifes pan to test the thermostat in when she is not looking........

Thanks, G.B.
 
it will flow from the waterpump up thru the head, otherwise youd heat up the crankcase by heated water up in the heads, and plus this is the way you remove heat or carry it away from the engine.

simply remove the thermostat and imerse it in boiling water in a pan on the stove, youll know real quick if its good.
 
mdbauer62 said:
GB - This may be a really stupid suggestion, but is it possible to run the sled W/O the thermostat? At least then you should get coolant flow if the water pump is working. I used to do this with cars when I was young and poor to see if the overheating was a plugged rad or bad thermostat.....
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MDB,

I just may try this if I do not find a way to test my thermostat. I had removed the thermostat housing cover and pulled the t/s just when it started raining today. After spending 8 or 9 hours working on my sled this weekend I was done anyways.

Thanks, G.B.
 
mrviper700 said:
it will flow from the waterpump up thru the head, otherwise youd heat up the crankcase by heated water up in the heads, and plus this is the way you remove heat or carry it away from the engine.

simply remove the thermostat and imerse it in boiling water in a pan on the stove, youll know real quick if its good.
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That makes sense. So if I understand the cooling system, when the engine is cold coolant flows in a loop from the case thru the heads into the t/s housing and down to the pump. It isnt until the t/s opens that coolant flows to heat exchangers. Is this right? Man I hope that after all this it was just a bad thermostat.

Thanks again, G.B.
 
GB - Sometimes a new set of eyes can help. I am only 25-30 minutes away, if you want I could stop by Mon PM to take a look. I gladly work for beer.....
 
mdbauer62 said:
GB - Sometimes a new set of eyes can help. I am only 25-30 minutes away, if you want I could stop by Mon PM to take a look. I gladly work for beer.....
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MDB,

That would be great. However I need a day off from working on this thing. I think you have my cell number. Give me a call and lets see if you have time later in the week.

Thanks! G.B.
 
Gone Blue said:
MDB,

That would be great. However I need a day off from working on this thing. I think you have my cell number. Give me a call and lets see if you have time later in the week.

Thanks! G.B.
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Brett - I will call. Wed is out (school) but any other day I will see if I can help...now you know why machines are referred to as "she"........
 
theblues & daman, thank you for checking up on me. I have needed a few days off from working on my sled. I pulled the thermostat before I quit working on it Sunday and have not dropped in boiling water yet. I will let you know what i found when I do.

Thanks again, G.B.
 
Well I finally got around to boil my thermostat. The manual says that if it does not open between 119 and 126 F replace it. I am not sure how accurate my meat thermometer is, but my thermostat did not begin to open until 155 F. I am going to buy a new thermostat and test it with the same thermometer to see when it opens. I am still hopeful that this is my problem. G.B.
 
If you look real close at your thermostat you will see a little bit of a plastic type material on the shaft of the stat, at the base, if this is cracked and chippedwith small peices missing its junk, I have seen them do this before, they then drag and delay opening and the stats are not cheap!
 
Gone Blue said:
Well I finally got around to boil my thermostat. The manual says that if it does not open between 119 and 126 F replace it. I am not sure how accurate my meat thermometer is, but my thermostat did not begin to open until 155 F. I am going to buy a new thermostat and test it with the same thermometer to see when it opens. I am still hopeful that this is my problem. G.B.
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If you pull your engine apart early spring & let it sit dry til late this fall, coolant has a thing for drying up & guming up things...have you wash the thermostat with brake clean or choke cleaner & then test in boiling water, see what you get...
 
theblues said:
If you pull your engine apart early spring & let it sit dry til late this fall, coolant has a thing for drying up & guming up things...have you wash the thermostat with brake clean or choke cleaner & then test in boiling water, see what you get...
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theblues, thanks for the tip. However, I think I will spend the $30 and buy a new one. As much money as I have spent on the rebuild, this extra $30 would be worth it for peace of mind if nothing else. My current thermostat has over 7,000 miles on it. Thanks again, G.B.
 
Its for peace of mind, cause if its within specs after you clean it up...you got your answer, its the thermostat, if not to the drawing board so to speak!!!now what...
 
Wouldn't it help to fill these up from the rear? Or partially anyway? I just changed my rear heat exchanger and I filled it through the rear bleed bolt. I used a cap off of a 90w gear lube bottle on a quart bottle of Yamacool.
 
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