moss
New member
Ok well finally got my sled back together and new track in, now shock, new sliders. 
I also put on a new Ultimax Belt, and new OEM springs in the primary and secondary. I just took a ride and it seems to be reving to about 8100-8200 under full throttle. I also had to put 3 washers in to try and get the belt to ride higher in the secondary, but it still isn't up high enough.
1st question, I may have messed this up, does the Stock Helix have to go in a specific way? I didn't really take notice of how it was positioned when I took it apart.
2nd, they sent me a www primary spring, is that right? Red secondary ( i know thats right)
I am quite happy with the performance tho, the reed spacers seems to have made the bottom end alot snappier and it climbs through the low end revs much faster now. Once I can dial in the clutch, it should be a much better ride.
I also put on a new Ultimax Belt, and new OEM springs in the primary and secondary. I just took a ride and it seems to be reving to about 8100-8200 under full throttle. I also had to put 3 washers in to try and get the belt to ride higher in the secondary, but it still isn't up high enough.
1st question, I may have messed this up, does the Stock Helix have to go in a specific way? I didn't really take notice of how it was positioned when I took it apart.
2nd, they sent me a www primary spring, is that right? Red secondary ( i know thats right)
I am quite happy with the performance tho, the reed spacers seems to have made the bottom end alot snappier and it climbs through the low end revs much faster now. Once I can dial in the clutch, it should be a much better ride.
Last edited:
moss
New member
moss said:
Nevermind, its w-s-w, I just verified, and that is the correct spring.
Do you know what you wrapped the helix to?Did you wrap it to tight that will cause the rpms too be high.
Different style tracks can cause an rpm change.First check what you secondary wrap is.You may need to add heavier rivets to your clutch weights.
Different style tracks can cause an rpm change.First check what you secondary wrap is.You may need to add heavier rivets to your clutch weights.
moss
New member
pro116 said:
Pro116, got to admit I am not really sure. As I said I didn't take notice when I took it apart.
I snapped some pics of the seconadary, the markings on the helix make it hard to determine which hole to put it in to wrap the spring at 60. There is only one number, which is 70, and it is on the opposite side of the hole I have the spring in. My guess would be that to wrap it at 60....I should be in the hole that is right beside the one that's labeled 70?
The pics should show have it's together, and also how low the belt is sitting, and I have 3 shims on the back of the secondary
Attachments
You have it on 9 on the helix not shure on the clutch.
There is 3 holes on the secondary itself 1,2,3 and on the helix there is 0,3,6,9.
Put it at 60 degrees which is 3-3.
There is 3 holes on the secondary itself 1,2,3 and on the helix there is 0,3,6,9.
Put it at 60 degrees which is 3-3.
daman
New member
Get that belt riding flush in the secondary too....
tedgoesfast
New member
the sled must be bogging with that much belt deflection
moss
New member
pro116 said:
ahh gotcha, I will go check that out now, thanks!
moss
New member
daman said:
Well I am trying but I have as many shims back there really as I can, maybe moving the spring will help...???
yamyrider
Active member
something not right in that clutch...the belt is siting too low inside the clutch. The cogs of the belt need to be just above the top of the sheave. You may have bushing problems. You need to get that belt up.
moss
New member
tedgoesfast said:
Not really, engages at about 4000 or slightly there after, and I don't notice any bogging....just a slight over rev, its quite snappy actually.
daman
New member
Naa...you need to get that secondary in some, does it move in if you take
em right out?
em right out?
moss
New member
yamyrider said:
Bushings in the clutch? I had it apart, didn't notice anything.
I will get the spring set correctly, and see if that gets the belt up. I had the same issue last year all season, the belt sat very low, but I didn't bother with it much, because It was the riding season, and the sled wasn't down here. I would like to get it setup A1 now tho, so if moving the spring doesn't help, I'll have to rip into it again and see whats up.
moss
New member
daman said:
Do you mean if I take the clutch right out or the belt off? yes it comes right together if I do that,
daman
New member
Not on that sled yamyrider, flush to 2mm bellow the sheave..so he's off for sure.yamyrider said:
daman
New member
yes..moss said:
somthing is not right in there,and that will be throwing you off..
tedgoesfast
New member
if you have the secondary wound to soft it will not squeze the belt to the top check that the spring is in the inside hole
daman
New member
it would have to be real soft yes..
you can put it in any hole and if you only move the helix to the first set of holes instead of winding the ramps to the next set of buttons it will be too loose, looks like you have the helix/spring not installed right to me. Reset to 3 in the clutch, and 3 on the helix, then twist the helix clockwise and align up the ramps to the buttons this will be turning the helix a full 60 degrees.
moss
New member
Ok I think I found it....the spring was not wound really at all, my bad didn't realize I had to wind it that way...I put it together at 3 and 3, and the helix was not even touching the sliders, so I took it apart, and wound it so that it was on the sliders, put it back together and took one shim out. After that I had a Hell of a time getting the belt on, the way I would expect a new belt and new springs to be....The belt now sits way higher, about 2mm from the top, and I only have 2 shims in. I am going to take 1 shim out tomorrow, because on the stand the track was moving at idle. I assume taking one more shim out should resolve this, sound right?