Phazer Jetting

chuck666

chuck666

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Joined
Feb 3, 2004
Messages
27
Age
37
Location
Pasadena, Newfoundland
Hey, Im about to do a few mods on my stock 95 phazer II and was wondering what size jets i should be running...

mods i'll be doing

- boysen reeds
- 38 mm flatslide carbs
- bender racing pipe w/ clutch weights

According to my gps im at an altitude of about 45m

Any input regarding the jetting or the mods will be greatly appreciated

Thanks
 
Justin with my psi pipe I will be running 155 mains and 42.5 pilots. On the same style carbs I sent you...Just my set up you might be close to that but just wait for somebody with a little bit more expirience than me...

Nick
 
Start with about a 157.5 main and needles in the middle, both washers under. That should get you close enough to ride it around and see if it wants a little more fule or a little less. I ran one that was ported, piped, head cut, etc... with flatslides and that was pretty close to what I ended up with at 1200' and temps to -10F.
 
You'll have to pull the plugs and see if it's rich or lean. You'll need to do this for each carb circut to get everything where it needs to be. If the plugs are white add fuel, if they are black subtract. Just going to have to mess with it till you get it right.
 
Jets

I ran the Bender pipe on my 84 Phazer and per Bender I ran 147.5 jets in both carbs. That was not flat slide carbs though. Best thing to do is run FAT. There is always smaller sizes to buy and test but it will not burn down FAT.
 
My carbs don't have that plastic washer thing:
carbimg9.jpg


Would that cause my bad top end problems??
 
Probably not helping any. I believe that the purpose of that is to keep the fuel around the main so it doesn't suck air instead of fuel. If that's the case then there is a pretty good chance you are lean on top and that is why it won't run like you want. Again it all comes down to what the plugs are telling you.
 
Well I just spent the past hour removing and cleaning the carbs.. after running it at wot for a little the plugs are soaked.... way too rich im guessin, so goin up even further to 157.5 will not help me any. Im soon gonna ditch this idea and go back to the stock carbs!!!
 
I'm sorry is not working for ya justin and I know is frustating but this is the way mods are when you start changing stock systems you have to spend time and money and head scratching on making it run right and my experience is that motors dont react the same even when the mods are the same, there is a lot of factors that could make it diferent...temps,jets,altitud,etc

(I hope you understand what I'm trying to explain here...) But if you are gonna ditched the carbs be carefull on puting the stock ones with the pipe, I heard here it will burn in the midrange if you dont drill the stock carbs.....Nick
 
oh, i understand... just wants to get a few rides in that's all.. im thinkin go back to stock untill i have more time to mess with things

Nick, do you have a rough idea of what the fuel screws should be set at... right now one side is at 1 3/4 turns, and the other is at 1 1/2
 
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If it's as rich as you say it is then lean it down and see what happens. Drop to 155's and see if it get better. Or go to 152.5's and give it a whirl. The flatslides once properly set up work really well on that motor. AT least in my experience anyway.
 
I have 155 in it at the moment.... i have some 151.3 to try, i need to try new spark plugs too since the ones im using now have quite a few kms on em
 
Old plugs (not fouled) will actually color faster and give you much better idea of what your motor is doing than a set of brand new ones. New plugs take a long time to show any color at all.
 
You have to tilt the carbs to measure the float height. They need to be at an angle like they are in the picture in the link you posted. You don't want them fully closed like they are in your pictures. You want them tilted just to where they're resting on the spring tension. Not fully closed like you have the one in your first picture. You need to tilt the carb in the first picture counterclockwise, when you can push down on the float and feel the spring tension and it goes up as far as it will go from the spring pressure that's when/where you measure it. You can't tell just by looking at your pictures if they need to be adjusted. But that float looks like it's all the way closed and the spring is already fully compressed. That's why the picture in your link shows that angle is because of the spring in there.
 
Yama49601 said:
But that float looks like it's all the way closed and the spring is already fully compressed.
Click to expand...

Is that the way it's supposed to be? Im trying to figure out why no matter what jets I put in the carbs the sled runs rich.
 
whats the air screw set at? what part of the carb circuit seems to be running rich?, is it part throttle cruising? idle/low speed? or wide open, you should be checking the plugs and piston tops for all 3 sections and adjust from there. start off idling, does it hold a good idle and are the plugs wet after it idles? does it rev up cleanly and not bog?

does it run clean, plugs dry and brown color when holding a mid throttle run for approx 600-750ft?

what results do you get after doing the above 2 on a wide open run and killing the ign and pulling out spark plugs on the same 600-750ft long?

If the float level is high, it will make the carb run rich, the metal flat arm of the float should be approx 90 degrees to the carb bowl mounting surface not compressing the needle valve,this is why you have to hold the carb at a slight angle to check this
 
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