HELP 98 SRX 600 slow

Yes you have to take the cover off or else how are you going to see if they are working or not.If you do what Mrviper is asking you to do,he will help you solve the problem without even being there.Besides you'll have to take the cover off to even see if the cables are hooked on or not.A 10 second job to remove cover and you will know.Let him know what you see and he will guide you to your next step.Again a few factors involved,powervalves and or clutching issues.Check clutch bushings and buttons also.Is your brake off..You can probably gear down one tooth upper with that 1 1/4 ripsaw also.Let us know.
 

I the tach doesn't work..do a process of elimination.Start at the CDI box and work towards the tach.I had the same problem.I had power out of the CDI.I checked all wiring under engine and around to the connections.Couldn't solve a thing.Just do a fast hot wire jobbie.Melt back a tad of wire plastic ahead of the CDI.Run a wire from there to the tach,you'll have to find out what color wire to go to,I'm not sure on your sled...got a manual with a diagram of wiring handy.If the tach then works,then there is a rub thru or broken wire somewhere.I just spliced and soldered a new line from CDI to Tach and put wire loom around it and my Tach is still working from last riding season.
 
Alright I pulled the cover off the power valve motor and lifted the sled up and went through the range. The cables were all hooked up and the pully turned twice, a little at low rpm and about a quarter turn somewhere around mid range. I also saw that where the pipe hooks to the manifold on the cyl closest to the clutch it was wet and got even a little more wet as I ran it through the range. While I had it lifted I could get the speedo needle to go all the way to where it would point down. Maybe there is nothing wrong and I'm expecting to much. I had a ZR 500 before this and it was snappy. With my sled running good should I be able to keep up with my little brothers SXR 700 which is clutched and has a can?
 
SXR 600 should not blow by an SRX 600. My friend rides my old SRX 600 and he gives me a run for my money on my Viper. Something is wrong.
 
I have a srx 600 and on a flat road mine will run up to about 110-114 on the speedometer.... I have an 1and1/4 ripsaw on it...if your if your sxr 600 doesn't have pipes on it, you will have no troubles walking by it, if it is running right. I would get myself a tach out of the classifieds....That way you can figure out what is going on with the motor and clutches. It would take one hell of a lot of down pressure to slow you down that much.....Get a tach!!!!!!!!!!

I didn't read bluemonsters post till after I posted this....he is right on....eleminate what the problem is with the tach and work your way from the cdi to the tach....
 
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a 98-99 srx tach does not get its signal from the cdi like the 2000-02 does, so the advice about wiring the tach is incorrect!

see the reason i asked about changing the dimmer switch and the tach needle moves is because its tied into the headlight wiring, its a voltage induced tach and if the wiring is shorted out by changing the load with the dimmer switch it will make the tach move some or slightly.


what you need to do to fix it is to do the test like I asked, its the way to go onto the next step or may very well be the problem, need you to be my eyes for me, I cant see the sled, hear it or anyhting other then go off your description as to the problem. We can fix it, but you have to be able to follow directions as I type them if you want to solve the problem.
 
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I will get the tach taken care of then I'll take some down pressure off. I have long travel in the rear with the thinnest plastic washers available on the bottom of the transfer rods and the rear spring wound as tight as possible. I will loosen the spring to about half way.
 
mrviper700 said:
(tach doesnt work...)LOL< ya thats a good reason...... well get this sled up on a jackstand, then remove the black palstic servo cover for the powervalves. Start up the sled, first off change the headlight dimmer from high beam to low beam a few times, does the tach needle move at all, flicker a slight bit?

Next rev up the sled to a good 3/4 throttle whacks, does the servo pulley acutate the powervalve cables, meaning does it SMOOTHLY pull the cables open? or is it all erratic and jerking the pulley back an forth?

do these checks and I will know where to instruct you to look for next test.
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I put it up on a jack stand and removed the servo cover. I started it up and let it warm, I hit the dim switch at least 6 times I got no reaction. The Light behind the tach, that lights it up dose work though. I watched the pulley and it would turn twice in one throttle rev up, one at lower rpms and one at mids. the first one didn't move much the second moved a quarter turn. If I had to pick on I'd lean more towards erratic and jerking. Thanks
 
ok, well if its not turning a good 1/2 turn of revolution counterclockwise when your gassing it 3/4 throttle then the cdi box is most likely defective, it was very,very common on the 98-99 sleds, the servo is actuated by the cdi, the servo is rpm activated. As for the tach the needle doesnt move even above idle switching the headlight dimmer switch?, this is most likely caused by a wire harness rub thru, this can also effect the cdi operation, and the cdi controls the timing curve for the engine, shorted harness which is also a very,very,very common problem in these sleds.

I am leaning towards you pulling the harness out and inspecting it, you might be able to fix both the tach and the running problem in one shot here.


I have one last question though?, does the engine sound nice and crisp, seems like its running good or is it kind of dull sounding kinda like a droan, instead of a nice ping,ping,ping sound of all the cylinders running cleanly?

ADDING: are the spark plugs a nice light brown color after running it or more of a black, wet sooty looking?
 
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ya, pull the wire harness out from under the engine its grounding out.

Unhook the harness up by the hood hinge, then tie some string onto the harness, now reach down between the pipes and bend back the little black metal fold over clamps, then go over by the recoil housings and get a hold of the wire harness and pull it out by about 2 feet, i am guessing youll find the harness rubbed thru and the copper showing on a few wires. tape up each wire sperately and then tape up the whole harness, I always use black auto convolute tubing available at most any auto parts store and place harness in that, then using your string pull the harness back and reconnect, your tach will probally work then and it may just run good again, youll need to perform the running test on the stand with servo cover off, if the servo is still all jerking and erratic, youll need to find a replacement cdi box.
 
A Few Posts Ago You Stated That One Of The Pipe Joints Was Getting Wet. If That Is The Case, Your Not Firing On That Cylinder.
Check For Spark, Plug Wire Etc, They Don't Run Very Well On 2 Cylinders. Just A Thought.
 
MADVIPER said:
A Few Posts Ago You Stated That One Of The Pipe Joints Was Getting Wet. If That Is The Case, Your Not Firing On That Cylinder.
Check For Spark, Plug Wire Etc, They Don't Run Very Well On 2 Cylinders. Just A Thought.
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You're right about me saying that joint is wet, but its running on all three.
 
mrviper700 said:
ya, pull the wire harness out from under the engine its grounding out.

Unhook the harness up by the hood hinge, then tie some string onto the harness, now reach down between the pipes and bend back the little black metal fold over clamps, then go over by the recoil housings and get a hold of the wire harness and pull it out by about 2 feet, i am guessing youll find the harness rubbed thru and the copper showing on a few wires. tape up each wire sperately and then tape up the whole harness, I always use black auto convolute tubing available at most any auto parts store and place harness in that, then using your string pull the harness back and reconnect, your tach will probally work then and it may just run good again, youll need to perform the running test on the stand with servo cover off, if the servo is still all jerking and erratic, youll need to find a replacement cdi box.
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You are AWESOME, I pulled the harness and 5 wires were either broke or wore through. The brown, black, green(black), red(black), green, and yellow.
My tach works, and when I give it gas it starts to engage just above 4000 rpms. The power valves move a quarter turn a little jerky at just above 7000 rpms, and then move again coming back down at about 3000 rpms. So I guss this means I need a cdi box. Does this sound right?
 
SS racing, I have worked on 1 or 2 srx's before......LOL, Glad to hear you got half of it fixed, it will probally run better already but with the cdi fixed and she should run like a fine swiss watch and actually have some power!

if the servo isnt moving in a clean sweep on opening th powervalves and is all erratic jerking it, then youll need to replace it, this was very common.

btw- you have to get a srx600 box as the 700 box is a differnt timing curve.
 
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