Viper carbs... Looking complicated!

akrievins

akrievins

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Jan 19, 2006
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Well, I posted a few days ago about my problems with starting my sled this year. It was solved by presurizing the fuel tank to get gas to the fuel pump.
Before I figured that out, I took the entrie air box off of the carbs.
I've never cleaned my carbs before and I was looking at all of the wires and cables running to the three carbs.

This by no means look like an easy task to take these carbs off... how are you guys doing this? There are several oil and fuel lines, coolant lines, electrical wires, as well as throttle and choke cables going to them. I'd have to cut zip ties off that hold the electrical wires in place.

This makes me not want to even attempt the task of cleaning my carbs. Baffled!
 
Did you check out mrviper700's carb cleaning 101 thread? I had mine off probably 20 times last year. It looks a lot harder than it is. I think I could do it blindfolded now.
 
Just looked at the Carb cleaning 101 post... Very detailed!
Now if only he had one just like that for proper removal of the carbs from the sled. There's another post on that topic, but it's not the exact same, and it's a bit harder to see.
Maybe I'm asking for too much... I'll have to take a look at mine again in the spring. Maybe I'll just take the carbs home and keep them inside over the summer. Then I'll have all summer to work on them.

TY is a great site! Can't stress that enough!
 
Don't clip any wire ties!!!

The TORS and TPS have plugs that can be unplugged. Then there are the in and out coolant lines. Do NOT take the Carbs off the rack - the whole rack comes off as one assembly. The fuel lines are a piece of cake compared to some of the non-rack mounted round-slides from days gone by. The starters (what you called choke) simply unscrew and the throttle and oil-pump cable easily come off.

This is a very easy job, don't let it scare you.

Do you have a service manual?
 
i paid almost 300 dollars to have the carbs cleaned on both of my sleds ...and a week later it was time to do a friends carbs ..so i decided to go check it out ..well lt me just say i am very ticked at my self for paying that kind of money for that ..and for doing it for the last 3 seasons ...i was a lil overwhelmed at first thinking it would be a very long process ..but turns out olny took about 30 to 45 minuites and olny a couple screwdrivers and some pliers ...so dont be a fool like me and pay someone else to do it for you ...unless they work for tips or beer ...
 
I don't have a service manual, but I'm feeling better about removing these carbs myself. I'm kinda looking forward to cleaning the carbs as well as the powervalves. I will do the PV's after the Amsoil HP injector oil runs out... I have a case of Interceptor ready to go after that! ;)
Thanks guys.
 
Im not sure if Viper carbs are the same as SRX's but it easy to take them off.
Take the air filter box off, 2 bolts and 3 screws on the carbs.
Take off 3 fuel lines, take off 2 coolant lines,loosen the nuts that hold on the choke, loosen and mark if you can the jam nut for the throttle cable,disconnect the TPS (I think it is) plug,loosen 3 screws that hold the carbs onto the engine remove the carbs. I may have missed something.
 
Ding said:
Don't clip any wire ties!!!

The TORS and TPS have plugs that can be unplugged. Then there are the in and out coolant lines. Do NOT take the Carbs off the rack - the whole rack comes off as one assembly. The fuel lines are a piece of cake compared to some of the non-rack mounted round-slides from days gone by. The starters (what you called choke) simply unscrew and the throttle and oil-pump cable easily come off.

This is a very easy job, don't let it scare you.

Do you have a service manual?
Click to expand...

Ditto!

Let me repeat, you shouldn't have to clip any ties.

It can look very overwhelming, but once you've done it once you'll shake your head about how easy it was, and the feeling of satisfaction is nice also. Don't forget to have something ready to plug the fuel lines. I twist small screws into them. Make sure you don't put the throttle cable back on too tight, or the TORS will activate. I've seen a few first timers freak out because the TORS activated and they thought they messed up the carbs bad, lol.
 
Let me see if I can help you overcome the fear.
I don't completely remove them from the sled. Like you say, to-much crap to unhook.
First remove air box (one bolt and three boot clamps)
Second, clamp off the heater hose and disconnect ( you can buy a cheap set of vaccum hose clamping pliers at the local auto parts store) ( you won,t be dripping antifreeze everywhere)
Third, loosen front boots clamps and pull back on carbs as a group ( don't try to seperate them from the rack)
Then take a trap stap and hook it to the left carb, stand them straight up and hook it to something on the other side.
Now you are ready to go for it.......do as Carb Cleaning 101 says from there.
OH! spread out an old towel or two under the carbs (just encase you happen to drop something. I also use shop towels and plug the intakes (just encase something is dropped down them.
Go for it...........easy
 
Uooops!!!! You have to remove the fuel lines before standing them up, might be a little tight. Again you can do this.
 
I just cleaned my carbs yesterday and taking them out is pretty easy and fun. Read Dings post, it really is not bad at all. Take your time and do a good job.
 
I also used to pay someone to do mine. Never again... I have had the carbs off my Viper 4 or 5 times now changing jets. Very easy, even for my worn out broken up body. I think it would be a lot easier with a stand. I really dislike leaning over the sled.

This year I got to the point that I either maintain them myself or I get rid of them. I was spending ~$1000 at the begining of the season for maintenance, oil, tags, insurance ect... just to get out for that first ride.
 
Take it from someone who did this for the first time last night, it isn't hard at all. Once you get the air box out of the way you can see where the fuel and coolant go into the carbs, those are the only hoses you have to remove. Just make sure when you reassemble you have the carbs fitted into the air box very well, don't want any air leaks.

I will NEVER pay someone to clean my carbs again. Planning on doing 3 more sleds this weekend.
 
JeepTherapy said:
I really dislike leaning over the sled.
Click to expand...

That's why I use my motorcycle jack under the front end and jack it up all the way when I work on stuff under the hood. My back doesn't like it if I don't. :rofl:
 
Great posts guys. Thanks so much. I'm sure this will help many others as well. They look intimidating, but sound simple to do!
I will surely take pics and post after I've cleaned my carbs. (end of season)
 
Be careful when you do your powervalves.There are two small pins that locate your powervalve housing.When you take the 4 bolts out and start removing your powervalve make sure you dont drop those pins.Most of the time the pins will stay in but sometimes they will pull out.
 
I'll jump on the bandwagon since just did mine for the first time last night. I bought the sled on Saturday, got it home and was down to 1 cylinder. Argh. I knew what the problem was since my best friend has an MM700 and had the same issue. After the quote to have a shop clean them I decided I should be able to handle it.

It was a breeze. Take your time, it's actually enjoyable...aside from the pile of mouse turds I found under the airbox....so I'm detailing much of it while I'm in there anyway before the carbs go back on!
 
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