Viper Clutching(Reving) Issues

E

ExpertXViper

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After re-ring and breakin in my Viper I notice it would only rev to 7500 rpm then drop to 7000 rpm when putting it to the bars, nothing more. Sled engages right around 4200 rpm and pulls hard up to 7500 rpm after that its all down hill. Heres the clutch set up Im running. What do you tuning gurus suggest I do?????

Primary: Stock(8ek and Y/W/Y)
Secondary:
53/45 Dalton Helix
Red Spring Wrapped 80 deg.
 
I asked Turk a while back what would be a go start with that angle helix and that is what he suggested to start with. PVs just cleaned and adjusted(idle under 800/2.5mm method), so Im not thinking its the PV's. Thinking about throwing the Green sec. in there and start at 70deg twist and see what happens. I didnt have the green spring or enough time to tune while I was up north, so when I go up again this weekend I know where I went wrong.
 
maybe dirty plugs....(from break in) I know my SRX did that last year and wouldn't rev up....new plugs and good to go. Check that and the carbs.
 
ask the tuner, buffalobob, he should be able to set ya up, hes the man!
 
..SNAKEBIT.. said:
Are you sure you dont have a problem with the carbs main jets?
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I just cleaned the carbs including all the jets which I tightened down all nice and snug. Its either the clutching or PV's.


Snakebit read your PM's I sent you one today about shipment info on your weights.
 
ExpertXViper said:
I just cleaned the carbs including all the jets which I tightened down all nice and snug. Its either the clutching or PV's.
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Not that I have anything to add, but did you change your clutching while you had the top end apart? If not, what makes you think it is clutching? Just curious, trying to improve my knowledge level. My Viper did the same thing one year after the dealer cleaned the power valves. They got one of the cables misrouted. It was great on the bottom end, just had no top end at all.
 
JeepTherapy said:
Not that I have anything to add, but did you change your clutching while you had the top end apart? If not, what makes you think it is clutching? Just curious, trying to improve my knowledge level. My Viper did the same thing one year after the dealer cleaned the power valves. They got one of the cables misrouted. It was great on the bottom end, just had no top end at all.
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Yes I did make the changes during my rering. Im thinking its the clutching cause I followed the PV adjustment as it says in the manual. I double and triple checked my work after I was all said and done. Just curious why Turk suggested using the red spring wrapped at 80-90 with that helix. When its only 2 degrees steeper than the 53/43 thats suggested in the tech pages and calls for a green sec wrapped at 70 degrees. I guess Ill find out where I went wrong when I head back up north this weekend, gunna start with green sec wrapped at 70 and see what happens. If I personally cant work out the kinks I already have someone in line to drop my sled off at and thats why I own 2 sleds.
 
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a red spring is softer then the green. If you use a steeper finsih angle you could use the red to a certain point and not gain any extra rpm from a stiffer spring, but without slowing the shift down such as in the 53/43 its my opinion(just a keyboard racer) that the clutchs get ahead of the engine and lug it, you get a dead zone till the engine catchs back up and then it will start to gain rpm then, but it takes a long distance to do so. I like to use a good spread on the helix, the 43 finish helps to slow down the shift and then applies better clamp to the belt without using more secondary spring pressure. better backshifting is alo a plus with a lower finish angle. You will need more tip weight to kepp from over revving up top, but more tip weight clamps the belt better in the front clutch, the smaller finsih clamps the belt better in the secondary and the less springpressure equals more top speed.
I have a thread in the FAQ section on helix's, I explain that a little better. Theres tons of ways to clutch a sled, and they all may very well post the same end result either mph or whatever, but one of them will do something better or worse then the other one somewhere in between. Also each sled can be a little differnt as to the exact specs that need to be applied, they all run a little differnt and have differnt mods, riders, conditions,etc.
 
mrviper700 said:
a red spring is softer then the green. If you use a steeper finsih angle you could use the red to a certain point and not gain any extra rpm from a stiffer spring, but without slowing the shift down such as in the 53/43 its my opinion(just a keyboard racer) that the clutchs get ahead of the engine and lug it, you get a dead zone till the engine catchs back up and then it will start to gain rpm then, but it takes a long distance to do so. I like to use a good spread on the helix, the 43 finish helps to slow down the shift and then applies better clamp to the belt without using more secondary spring pressure. better backshifting is alo a plus with a lower finish angle. You will need more tip weight to kepp from over revving up top, but more tip weight clamps the belt better in the front clutch, the smaller finsih clamps the belt better in the secondary and the less springpressure equals more top speed.
I have a thread in the FAQ section on helix's, I explain that a little better. Theres tons of ways to clutch a sled, and they all may very well post the same end result either mph or whatever, but one of them will do something better or worse then the other one somewhere in between. Also each sled can be a little differnt as to the exact specs that need to be applied, they all run a little differnt and have differnt mods, riders, conditions,etc.
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So what would you suggest to start with using that helix, color spring and twist??? Only using this set up for this season so I wanna try and use what I got. Yea I know your just the typical keyboard racer that why I always go to you for questions, cause I know you dont have a clue abot these Yamaha's.... :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
 
Planned to keep everything stock in the primary and use this Dalton 53/45 with either the Yami Red or Green sec. spring. I also have some extra 3.6gm and 4.5gm rivets laying around. I use my Viper for tight bumpy twisty trails, Im not looking to do any speed/lake running of any sort.
 
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well i would need to know exactly what the tach does to remedy the problem, most people tune the clutch via the primary not the secondary, its backwards to tune the sled to the helix.
 
Well after checking the PV's for the 4th time, replacing the plugs(MAG was fouled out), and leaving the clutching as posted in my first post. I had a little bit better results, with 80deg twist I was pulling 8400-8500 rpm's. Dropped the twist down 70deg and now runs 8700-8800 rpm's, backshift is a little bit harsh but I think I can live with it for a season.

So after all the messing around, I hit the rough stuff for about 25 miles and I couldnt be happier with the way this ExpertX takes the big bumps. Worth every penny IMO.
 
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