electrical help, when i hit the high beams

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blueblood

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Nov 18, 2005
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Tupper Lake, NY
when I turn on the high beams my gauge pod will blink, tach will go crazy.
seems ok when just the low beams are on. I checked the wire harness under the motor,seemed fine. However when un-hooking the whip up by the cowl hinge I noticed some green corosion on the wire coupling. could this be the cause. I cleaned it as best I could, its hard, the openings are tiny. Could I cut that coupler out and just wire it direct? any suggestions on other things I could check. Ive heardof a few guys having loose wire on the stator, how do I go about checking that. thanks for the help
 

harness is rubbed thru somewhere, either under the engine or under the gastank.

ADDED: unplug harness up at hood hinge, tie a string on it, undo black bend over clamps. Then go over by recoil and grabahold of the harness, pull it back up and out by a good foot to 2 feet, this is where youll find the problem most likely.ta pe each wire seprately then tape them all, place in black automotive convolute tubing and pull back thru via the string you tied on.

they also will rub the light harness for the tailight, located under the gastank, its the feed for the tail light.
 
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Geeze mrviper you make that sound easy, well it really isn't!!! Good luck, I removed my exhaust and carbs to yank that sucker out, fixed and rerouted in a much better area....under the engine, what the #ell where they thinking!!!!!!
 
mrviper I did as you instructed, I couldn't find any spots rubbed thru thats why when i saw the green on the connection I thought that could be the culprit. Is that possible or should I give another go at finding a exposed rub? I wont get to work on it until tomorrow and I have'nt gave that connection a good cleaning . Also when you mention under the tank do you mean the rear light whip?
Thanks
 
rear tailight feed runs under the gastank and plugs in at seat/tank junction, this harness can rub thru and ground out he wires as well.

If you go over by the recoil side and look very carefully at the stator plugs and seeif they are burned? 3 white wires
 
on srx i know they have some wire wear in the opening of the hood ....
 
If you have an ohm meter check continuity of the plug thats green. Wiggle the connection and watch the meter. It should read 0 if your checking at about an inch on both sides. If its not 0 thats a problem.
 
mrviper700 said:
harness is rubbed thru somewhere, either under the engine or under the gastank.

ADDED: unplug harness up at hood hinge, tie a string on it, undo black bend over clamps. Then go over by recoil and grabahold of the harness, pull it back up and out by a good foot to 2 feet, this is where youll find the problem most likely.ta pe each wire seprately then tape them all, place in black automotive convolute tubing and pull back thru via the string you tied on.

they also will rub the light harness for the tailight, located under the gastank, its the feed for the tail light.
Click to expand...



black bend over clamps do you mean the yamaha verison of a reuseable zip tie?
 
no, in the bellypan section youll see small aluminum bend over clamps, they are rubber coated aluminum straps, just bend them to release the harness.
 
Thanks MrViper I saw about three of those now if I dissconnect the two connecters and tie a string to them and release them from the black bend things and pull on it from recoil side it should come right through right. Thats got to be where its at I have check every where else.
 
having same exact problem with my 2003 Viper, have read now a couple of different people having this issue, I haven't been able to find any rub through on my wiring, I've untaped as much of the harness as I can get too, checked the wiring-found nothing, retaped, taken the seat off and taillight out and found nothing, can't find where the main ground is to the engine...I've got it in my head it's got to be either the ground to the block or the load control relay itself...this is driving me nuts, as I know it is the others as well. It cuts out when switching beams and when I hit the brake, disconnected the tailight and it still does it when I switch beams. grrr
 
hope you don't join me at chrysler cause the have alots of wire corroded and rubbed in those new generation car jesus they turn uss crazy lolllllllllllllll
 
Last night I finally tied a string to the end of the harness that I disconnected up by the hinge of the hood. I did have to pull the carbs back a little bit. I then loosened the black bend over things and yamaha zip ties and started pulling the harness from underneath the motor from by the coolant tank. It didn't take me long to find exposed wires from the harness and two that were wore through. Taped them up REAL GOOD and kinda rerouted them and started it up, did a little test run around the yard it and so far so good.

Seems the places they were through are underneath the motor and you need to pull the harness through to to check it. Kinda A bitch, but sure is nice not to have to worry about it anymore.
 
good ol wire harness rub thru, I wish I had a $1.00 for every sled I have fixed with those problems, yamaha should have fixed that long before the 2002 srx, then they brought out the viper in the same year and DIDNT put it in the harness protector..........someone must have went a extra year of school to make that decision...LOL

that harness can make electrical systems do all kinds of wierd things, engine cuts in and out, bogs, lights dim, backfiring, and most of the time you can switch from highbeam to low beam and the tach will go goofy, always usually a tell tale sign, not 100% of the time, but a good 80+%


glad ya found it, and fixed it Wills837!
 
I have been having this same issue for quite some time now. I have completely removed my wiring harness from the sled, had it on my living room floor as I went through each wire and taped individual wires so they were seperated. The problem only became more consistent. Now...lights are just a bit dimmer than they should be...they brighten up when I increase RPM', the guage pod and lighting cuts out for a second when I either switch from high to low or from low to high beams, and it cuts out in the same fashion when the brakes are applied-only when using the breaks the pod doesn't come back on until brake is released. I unhooked the plug to the lights at the hood hings and no change in that the brakes still do the same thing...unhook the brakes and leave lights on and the lights still do the quirk.---the warmers have a slight effect on the problem. Haven't narrowed down the problem. The lights and brakes are connected electricaly through the load control relay....the problem is when any type of load is changed. Theory: stator or for some other reason...the sled is not making the full 12 volts, therefore, whenever a load change is required (ie. more voltage to the brake light, or increase/decrease voltage to headlights) the load voltage relay is tripped thus cutting out power to the lighting and pod. Then when the load change is done and is consistent again, everything comes back again. Just the direction I've been going, I know it's not a rub through grounding issue. Things don't have to be dead to not work right, just a little malfunctioning.
 
stator or cdi issue....test for 12v plus at the load relay. Heck with this headache I'd start tossing parts at it!!!!! Relays are about $30 each, find a used stator and go from there....don't hear of many issues with cdi.
 
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