help with 97vmax 500

daman said:
he can do what he wants and filter through the info just throwing things out thats what he asked for..


NONE of my yamaha's will rev over 3k when tors is activating..thats how
it's set up to act(2,800 to 3,000rpm's).
Click to expand...

when the TORS cct is not putting negative 12 VDC to the CDI ALL THE TIME, yes it will never rev past engagement... but do you not agree, that this condition is less frequent than an intermittent occurance of TORS?...

but then again.. I don't want to argue... I only have 400 posts in 5 years...

tj
 
TJ500 said:
when the TORS cct is not putting negative 12 VDC to the CDI ALL THE TIME, yes it will never rev past engagement... but do you not agree, that this condition is less frequent than an intermittent occurance of TORS?...
Click to expand...
Never had a intermittent prob. with tors,either it works or it don't..
TJ500 said:
but then again.. I don't want to argue... I only have 400 posts in 5 years...
Click to expand...
you better get typing!!!
 
daman said:
Never had a intermittent prob. with tors,either it works or it don't..

you better get typing!!!
Click to expand...


spend more time riding your "fleet" and less time polishing your "fleet"... you might experience a faulty TORS, or even, a spun bearing.....

but.. be damn sure, not to split the cases if you don't have to...


this is my last post on this... I'm sure however, you have another 7000 in mind..

tj
 
TJ500 said:
spend more time riding your "fleet" and less time polishing your "fleet"... you might experience a faulty TORS, or even, a spun bearing.....

but.. be damn sure, not to split the cases if you don't have to...


this is my last post on this... I'm sure however, you have another 7000 in mind..

tj
Click to expand...
Well your at 409,,keep going,, some more BS post's and you'll be right up
there LMAO!!!!!!!
 
Hey guys please don't argue about this I appreciate the help and direction! Sled runs good with the track off the ground a liitle bog but it will ramp up to 6000 or so. As soon as the track is put on the ground, no power again. I back to the original problem from the first post. The track rotates at idle with the skid off the ground ( no skid bearing or jack shaft bearing issue) Under load is when it fails! I wish I could find what that original pop was? Ideas? CDI Box? stator? I lifted each plug wire and cuts down to one cyclinder than come back has soon as its put back on. Can I take resistance readings on Stator, CDI? I dont think the Tors is hooked up wires are just connected together? Thanks for the help!
Terry
 
Bluebullet; Try playing with your choke when you go to take off; just put it on a little. With the track off the ground this may get rid of your bog or make it worse. If it gets a lot worse then you are running rich; if it helps somewhat you could be running lean. Yah your TORs just connect the two wires together going to the throttle rail switch as you probably already have. You could check the timming key on your flywheel. It may have shifted slightly; ie your pop. Also make sure your clutches are not jammed up and will shift. If you rev to 6000 off the ground with a little bog I would say you are running lean. I am not an expert like some of these other guys and I do not plan to argue with any one or play know it all. Just trying to help. Good luck.
 
3yamis, Thanks for the post. I have alot of oil in the gas and motor right now due to the rebuild of the pistons. The sled bogs as normal when choke is applied after it is warmed up. I don't think I am lean based on how the plugs and pistons looked before. Can I see the timming mark without taking the water pump side case off? I see what looks to be a mark through a opening in that case on what looks to be a flywheel? Piston location when I line up this mark? New things I noticed, 1. I did notice a small hole in the pipe underneath where it bends to head back to the silencer? 2. Fuel pump seemed to take a long time to get fuel into the motor after rebuild and carb work? ( had to dump gas down in the carbs to get running and it would run hard and strong untill gas burn up). Can the fuel pump fail partially? not provide enough fuel on load demand? Yes scott, I am still working on this thing? I sent you an email. Thanks guys
Blue
 
Can you take a picture of the pipe with a hole in it?

My XTC takes a good minute of cranking after a carb rebuild. Always has but it will pull my arms out of their sockets past 8000 rpm if I let it

You should get it hot enough to burn the oil out of it. Why was there extra oil added? If you add oil to the tank and still are running the oil injection you are essentially running your sled in a lean condition since you are adding oil in twice. It would be different if we did not mix the oil at the fuel pump.

As far as the TORS goes do what was suggested by 3yamis and connect the wires together instead of the carb switch.

The electrical can be checked as follows,

Disconnect the CDI magneto coupler (Brown, Black/red) (White/Red, White/Green)
Connect tester to CDI Magneto Coupler
Measure Source coil and pickup coil resistance.

Source coil (Brown, Black/Red) 225~275 Ohm at 68F
Source coil (Brown, Brown/Red) 78~94 Ohm at 68F
Pickup coil (White/Red, White/Green) 189~231 Ohm at 68F

Ignition coil (Primary)(Red) to ground (case of coil) 0.16~0.24Ohm @ 68F
Ignition coil (Secondary) (Across the plug wires) 3.9~5.9 kOhm @ 68F
Spark Plug cap resistance (Inside the cap to wire) 5 kOhm

Don't forget the plugs should be gapped for 0.028~ 0.031in.

There is a woodruf key that hold the magneto assembly in place.

I do have another question for you. Have you checked for bad/clogged fuel and vent lines? How about clogged passages in the carbs. Either the pilot jet or port it screws into? How about making sure both starter valves actually close when the choke is moved to the off position.
 
Fuzzbutt, The reason why extra oil in the motor is because of upper engine rebuild, pistons, rings,gaskets.... Yes the carbs were cleaned, jets blown out and all lines. I had to pull for atleast 15 - 20 minutes trying to get fuel into the motor thats why I ended up pooring gas down into the reed intake and top of pistons. Thanks for the electrical readings! I am going to check the airbox internals to make sure they are not blocking air flow, next might be the fuel filter, fuel pump. Please read the history on this sled, Bang into a pole ( 1 month ago ) 2 rides later POP sound after 5 miles and no power etc.... Thanks again
Terry
 
Things I checked last night, Sled starts great. Will ramp all the way up with track on stand. Pulled the cover off airbox, nothing blocking air flow. While sled idleing put hand over airintake sled stalls. Took off carb covers and all slide parts are connected and moving with throttle . Sprayed wd-40 in areas of seals no rpm change during idle. Checked carb sinc both slides move together perfect. Watched cluthes during accelleration both cluthes move good. Put skid on the ground, same as before no power , bog but did notice secondary clutch opens or splits when trying to move. Lift the track back up all is well rpms come right up! Took secondary off checked sping, Shoes and all look good! Installed back on sled , same result. I am thinking of bad bearing in track boggie, jackshaft etc... Checked the chain case and idler adjustment seems fine. I have the skid lifted and don't see any broken parts ,shock mounts, W arm etc. Plan on bringing an ohm meter from work and checking the electrical. The saga continues this weekend as they are calling for rain here!! Thanks , Terry
 
just a note on how long it should take to fill the carb's from a rebuild I've found it usually take's 9-15 pulls of the rope with full choke
 
Here is were I am at as of 3/8/08 1:00 pm. I bought a new compression tester and reads between 110 and 118 on each side. Took both clutches of tore apart and all looks good. Took chain cover off chain gears all look good. Doesn't appear to have any play in upper or lower drive shafts. Took close look under suspension, losened track checked all wheels for bad bearings all seems good so, put back together and Same as before runs to 6000 rpms in skid but won't move on the ground. Pulled fuel filter out of the gas tank ( left out), let run for awhile and no change. I am thinking that it jumped out of time or has electrical issue. Would I still build compression if a little out of time? Thier appears to be timming marks should I see a line when each piston is on the top of its stroke? The line appears just barly in the window when pistons are on top? should it appear in the middle? I am really going down roads I've never had to go before with this sled!!!!!!! Thanks for the help guys! Terry
 
Update to the ...... saga. I pulled the rear suspension out. All wheels bearings and arms all good. I found the collar ( Inside of lower speedo bearing) spinning free. Bearing on both ends of lower shaft look good. No evidence that the lower shaft was moving side to side inside, so I don't think. I am going to check wheel drive cogs and make sure they aren't damaged or broken. Any other drive items I can check? I plan on taking some electrical readings next. Thanks ,
Terry
 
terry did you do the readings on the stator, remember toms polaris that day and we thought it was clutching we were wrong turned out to be a bad stator. something to think about. what are you doing this weekend i planning on staying up to long lake and get some riding in leaving friday night interested?


larry
 
Problem solved!!!!! Un ......... Can you day bad muffle ( can) A baffle must of broke off and blocked air flow!!!!! Put the original can back on and the sled is alive again. Thanks Alot to everyone who helped! Wow did I learn alot!!!!!!!! Blue
 
glad you got it working again... I was just plain out of sensible ideas and a bit confused... that pop you heard was then likely in the exaust somewhere... never would have guessed the can...
 
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