Ripsaw studding question

[fleet man]

I have been having some issues with traction on my 760BB with a 1 1/4 Ripsaw. I went through the suspension and now have that pretty well setup the way it should be (the way I like it) but still have a track spin problem. I have read that it's not a recommended practice to stud the 1 1/4 or larger tracks. Well I need to do something as this situation sucks. I have all this available hp and can't get it to hook up. After todays ride I flipped her up on the side to see if there was enough clearance between the front cooler and the track as I have heard thats a tight fit there. Well I think I'm ok as far as that goes. There seems to be plenty of room there. Any suggestions as to what size (length) to use? Is 96 going to be enough? I'm thinkin' 144.

 

[srxeater]

i would be very cautious about studding with the 1 1/4. my studs have come into contact with my 7/8 track with the heat exchanger protectors. when you let off at high speeds the track baloons above the drivers. i also noticed your track is not notched for the protectors.IMHO i would drop to 8 tooth drivers if i was going to do it and get the protectors.as for the # of studs i wouldnt go any more than 144, and only inside the windows, i have seen too many tracks ruined due to stud tear outs on the edge. just my .02

 

[yamyrider]

you need to be sure you can fit the protectors after you stud. If you do not install protectors you WILL hit the front heat exchanger. You may not fit the protectors with that track.

 

[JohnnyQuest]

You cannot stud that 1-1/4 unless you install 8tooth drivers, it simply will not clear with the 9tooth,

Do you have adjustable transfer rods on your rear skid???

 

[yamaholic22]

You can stud an 1.25" with 9 tooth drivers, but it is VERY risky and is not recommended. Go to the 8 tooth drivers and save yourself a lot of headaches down the road.

 

[fleet man]

Do you have adjustable transfer rods on your rear skid???

Yes... I have about 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch gap with me on the sled. It's just irritating that I can't get it to hook. Front limiter straps are as long as they can be. Maybe I should tighten the front straps up a bit.

Right now as the two sleds are my 600 would take the SX of the line no questions asked. That 600 hooks up very well.


EDIT: Just for the heck of it I just measured my Xtra10 mounting holes in my 600 and then measured the extra holes in the SX chassis and sure as snow is white they match. Someone at some time had an Xtra10 under there. I may just swap it out of my 600 and try it on the SX. I know the Polaris skid transfers much better.

 

[JohnnyQuest]

That's why I said that you cannot stud a 1.25 with 9tooth drivers, because no one in their right mind would try something so foolish, it's just too close down there. You'll gouge the front exchanger and piss all your coolant out.....

I can already see the post "does anyone know where I can get top end parts for a 760 big bore SX 700??"

You can't be complaining about the yamaha not weight transfering when you don't even have adjustable TRANSFER rods.

I get wicked awesome weight transfer with my 1.25 camoplast and proaction skid with adjustable rods!!!!! Try some, that's what they're for

 

[fleet man]

That's why I said that you cannot stud a 1.25 with 9tooth drivers, because no one in their right mind would try something so foolish, it's just too close down there. You'll gouge the front exchanger and piss all your coolant out.....

Thats why I was asking for opinions. I didn't say I was going to do it anyway.

I can already see the post "does anyone know where I can get top end parts for a 760 big bore SX 700??"

That is exactly what I don't want to have to post. Henceforth the purpose of this thread.

You can't be complaining about the yamaha not weight transfering when you don't even have adjustable TRANSFER rods.

Umm, did you even read my reply to your question asking if I had them?

I get wicked awesome weight transfer with my 1.25 camoplast and proaction skid with adjustable rods!!!!! Try some, that's what they're for

What do you weigh? (if I may ask) I go about 160 with gear soaking wet. I don't have a lot of weight too transfer to the rear, so if your a lightweight like me I sure would like to know how you have your transfer rods set to get this awesome traction.

 

[srxeater]

what are you waiting for!?! get that poo skid under that thing asap. you'll love it!

 

[Zachalyse]

That's why I said that you cannot stud a 1.25 with 9tooth drivers, because no one in their right mind would try something so foolish, it's just too close down there. You'll gouge the front exchanger and piss all your coolant out.....

I can already see the post "does anyone know where I can get top end parts for a 760 big bore SX 700??"

You can't be complaining about the yamaha not weight transfering when you don't even have adjustable TRANSFER rods.

I get wicked awesome weight transfer with my 1.25 camoplast and proaction skid with adjustable rods!!!!! Try some, that's what they're for

YA!!!! Come ON!!! You're an IDIOT!!!! STOP wasting out TIME!!!! JohnneQuest is the GREATEST and knows EVERYTHING!!!!





Just ignore hem dude. That is one of the most reduculas replys to a post I've ever heard. He needs some pills. I understand where your coming from. Not everyone wants to have to tear their whole suspension out to be able to stud there track, but, unfortunately thats the only safe solution.

Thanks for the post. I've learned from it and will be going to 8-tooth when I switch tracks and stud.

 

[JohnnyQuest]

sorry fleet man, didn't see your reply for the ATR's, plus I figured that you realized that I was just jerkin your chain with the whole (parts for a SX 700 big bore thread!!haha). I'm a little heavier than you...bout 200 with gear. I used to get great traction with my ATR's even with my stock .92 track (considering) As for my skid..... my limiters are slightly longer than stock settings, my shocks are set on the soft side as i just bump my FRA to the type of conditions that I'm running, the biggest improvement that I noticed was when I softened up the rear shock, seemed to flatten out and hook considerable better. I run my ATR's about right in the middle, That's my set up that I've ran for years...works REALLY well for me. But i guess if you ask ZACKLYS...I am the GREATEST and I know EVERYTHING.....Even though 95% of my posts are asking questions or trying to help guys out

 

[fleet man]

I did that adjustment to the rear shock. I have it set to the softest spring preload and the full rate adjuster at soft also. That did help somewhat.

I did put 160lbs on the sled and took a look at the front straps and they are barely loose. Rear set-in is right and the transfer rods are set correctly. It just seems to have a lot of weight carried on the front of the skid. Sunday I tried to remove the front shock but no luck. There is no way I can weasel that thing out of there without removing or dropping the skid. But it appears to be at the soft preload according to a crude measurement. I can grab the rear bumber and spin the sled around in circles on the shop floor. I think I need to pull the limiter straps tighter and try that. But going that route is going to affect transfer to the rear right? Will to much pressure on the front of the skid cause excessive track spin? I thought I read somewhere that when the rear of the sled is picked up just enough to get the skid off the ground that the front and rear of the skid should be level. I know this one ins't. When I do that the front touches first with about an inch of gap left yet before the rear lays flat.

 

[JohnnyQuest]

I have removed my front shock with the skid in place and I BARELY got it out. But I have a little more room to work with being that it's a long travel skid. But what a pain in the ***!! By tightening your straps this will "Theroetically" give you more ski pressure. When my sled sits on the shop floor, the front of the skid touches and the rear is an inch or so off the floor at the rear axle.. so if yours is sitting the same as mine with your straps loose.....that seems kind of bazzar to me. With the rear axle up off the ground.....it allows the skid to flatten apon hitting the throttle (pushing the rear to the ground) thus creating better traction.

How is your traction with your FRA at the mid or hard settings?