Hatch
New member
I have a polaris m-10 in my viper and I thought it was working right, but something still seems wrong. If I trail ride it, it seems like its working right, but still stiff. But if I jump off a drift and land on the back of the skid its like rock solid. It seems like as soon as the blocks hit the stop it wont compress any more. If i put a 4 x 4 block of wood under the front arm and jump on it, it will compress the skid, but still stiff. What is wrong? I need some input or its going to the dealer to try and figure out whats wrong. I can't figure it out? The FRA is at setting #1. It doesnt have the crossover tube so I can't adjust the shock preload, but I have a write up on this suspension and I guess they make different lenght collers for softer preload. But you got to take the shock apart to change it. ANyone have one of these. All the help is appreciated. I bought the team fast mounting kit and mounted it to the template. As long as the mounting is the same as the fast m-10 is should be in there right. HELP?? Thanks.
pipdviper
Member
I had the same problem when I mounted my M-10. If you do a search on here it seems a lot of peoplpe seem to have this prob as well. I started to move (relocate) the skid back for front shaft clearence after the original install. I moved the front mounts back 5/8 of an inch and thought I'd try it before I moved the back mounts. I never moved the back mounts and mine works great now. I'm not saying this is your problem but it seemed to work for me. I do know everything HAS to be square or it will bind. The front and back arms HAVE to be mounted on the same angle. Before you drill any new holes, pull the shocks and see if it travels free. You could also try to remove the back bolt in ONE of your front mounts and see if it travels. Maybe your not quite square on the front mount?? (make sure you put the bolt back in) !!!!!
is this a 128 skid or a 121?
take a picture of the sled from the side with you on and then off the sled, a picture of your coupling block is the most important.
also, read the article below on the setup of the proaction skid, alot of the setup applies to this skid. they both have transfer limiting, just two different ways, they also both have fra adjustments.
the adjustments of this skid depend alot on what height your front end is, this changes the height of the front arm which changes the transfer block placement.
ill leave it at that till you can post some pictures.
take a picture of the sled from the side with you on and then off the sled, a picture of your coupling block is the most important.
also, read the article below on the setup of the proaction skid, alot of the setup applies to this skid. they both have transfer limiting, just two different ways, they also both have fra adjustments.
the adjustments of this skid depend alot on what height your front end is, this changes the height of the front arm which changes the transfer block placement.
ill leave it at that till you can post some pictures.
if its a later version of the polaris skid the rear shock is different than the one from fast...post a pic of your rear shock as well, since you mentioned that you did not have the cross over adjustment......this could be why its so hard to compress....CP
Hatch
New member
It is out of a 2006 fusion or classic. It is the 128" version with rail ext. to a 136". I will try and get some pics.
sounds like it is coupled too soon and your riding jambed all the time. are you sure the tunnel measurements are correct?
Hatch
New member
Yea im pretty sure, its mounted exactly how the team fast mounting kit says. Im using the std holes in the torque arms instead of the pro-action holes. Tech guys said if you have clearance you can use the std holes. Its within a 1/16 of an inch. everywhere. I just dont understand that when the blocks hit the stop its like solid.Here is a pic. No weight on it.
Attachments
Hatch
New member
Well , i found the problem, betheviper you were right. The center to center distance is NOT the same as the Fast m-10 and I was told it was. I got the dim off a 07 or 08 IQ 600 with the 128" version m-10 in it and its .750" different. Tracksusa can shove it, cause they told me it was the same when i bought it from them. If I would have known this I would have never got it and just found the real Fast m-10, Now i have to move the back hole forward .750" or I find a cheap Fast m-10. Huh...?? What do you guys think I should do????
xsivhp
Active member
move the hole .... faster.
Hatch
New member
I Finished moving the rear arm forward tonight. I had to drill out 4 rivets and take the outside plate off then drilled out a few more rivets and move the hole forward about 1", So the center to center was 24 5/8. Put the 7/16 bolt in with the outside plate on and drilled the 4 new holes for the plate, riveted them, then riveted a couple more rivets to plug the extra holes. Kinda sucked but it turned out good. You cant even tell I moved it forward. At least it is working right now!! Its about time. I'll take it for a test ride tomorrow.
The only thing I noticed now is that the rear of the rails come off the ground 1 to 2 inches with out me on it. I have the torque arm bolts in the top hole (dimple). Should I move them to the bottom holes so it doesn't put so much pressure on the front of the rails?? Otherwise do I need to raise the front of the sled? Add shock extensions or what?? THanks.
The only thing I noticed now is that the rear of the rails come off the ground 1 to 2 inches with out me on it. I have the torque arm bolts in the top hole (dimple). Should I move them to the bottom holes so it doesn't put so much pressure on the front of the rails?? Otherwise do I need to raise the front of the sled? Add shock extensions or what?? THanks.
pipdviper
Member
Hatch said:
Might not be Tracks USA's problem. Like I said in my previous post, I used the template I got directly from FAST. Told them it was for a Viper. They even looked at the pics I sent them of the skid I bought. If you read my previous post, I moved my front mounts back 5/8" or .625" . That is when mine freed up.