went back to 8DN-20's instead of HC's

DAN. I HAD SIMILIAR RESULTS WITH MY 2000 SRX WITH H/C AND MY 2002 SRX WITH 8BU. THATS WHY I SHOULD OF NOT POSTED THAT IN STONE ABOUT RPM. NOW WITH THAT SAID, I CAN,T EXPLAIN WHAT HAPPEN WITH MY 95. UNLESS ITS DEFFERENT CUT HELIX SCENARIO AGAIN. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
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I think clutch "kits" are fine for a guy who does not have the space/time for testing from scratch or not the interest to go through the effort. It is a gift given here as information by turk and others, or a purchased option for the time spent by those in the business.

but when you get a kit, ( list of parts or box of parts) a guy should know what his measures should be so that he can fine tune from that great starting point to counter his variations such as temp, his weight, track, trail conditions, elevation, desired use, etc.

things like
at what rpm is peak HP for your engine
where/when/how fast does the power fall off ( ign timing)
what is the desired engagement rpm
so that he knows if the "kit" is dialed in right for his setup, or if some fine tuning is needed

my buddy swore his srx was at it's sweet spot at 9000, I pulled hard past him at 8500 because I knew from this board that 8500 is the peak hp of our 2000 srx sleds and I had my setup running at that spot.
 
I'm willing to bet the majority of SRX's out there with aftermarket kits have big gains available still but the owner has too little knowledge to get the most out of there purchase. These kit as you stated are a great starting point, but conditions change and your set up has to change with them!!! These small changes are ofter the difference between winning and losing against another similar machine..
 
Ok I like this.......... You guys are thinking & typing ;)
This is the T/Y we all fell in love with from the years past :)

Ok Now what can we talk about? I know what feels fast aint fast when tuning!
Let me get a couple customers out of the way & I will post another clutching question...

Stay tuned!!!!!!!
 
This is a couple post from TJE from a couple years back I put together

Bushman and Ski, I have been reading about your setups all winter and am curious if either of you have tried running 8bu-10 arms? I am a dealer for max. perf. and have an 02 viper with slp triples and some other goodies and tried running 8bf , 8dn-20, and heavy hitter weights and couldn't pull my rpm's down. I tried every spring combo and couldn't hold the belt or my rpm's with those arms even fully loading them.I finally have the thing flying now and am running 88 to 8900 rpm's all the time, in all snow conditions. I am currently running 8bu-10 weights with 4.5 grams in each hole, max perf blue primary spring, green yami secondary at 60 degree wrap and a 40-34 helix, stock gearing, 160 main jets, 1 3/4 turns on the fuel screws ,47.5 pilots, 3 position on the needles. It was zero and a hair below last week in northern Wisc. and the jetting was spot on. It has taken me nearly two years to dial this thing in as I live in southeast Iowa and we get little snow to test on. I really enjoy reading about your setups as it has helped me to dial mine in as well. I hope to someday hook up with you all and play. We try to make it to the U.P. a couple times a year. I am going to try loading the arms up with the 5 gram rivets and try a stiffer primary spring just to bring my engagement up a little if I can and still keep my rpms in the 88 range. Bushman, sorry to hear about your monster. Hope you get it back together soon. Happy tunning TJE



It helps to have a tie with Gary at Max. Performance. I have a pile af helixes, weights, springs, etc. We have a half mile test strip by the shop and test stuff year around. If you don't mind riding on grass. I am kind of guessing on the helix angle as Gary just sent it to me to try and didn't tell me exactly what the angles are. He was not near his office and his notes at the time but I think it is real close. You guys run allot of dalton stuff don't you? There helixes are cut quite a bit different I think. If you subtact 8 degrees or so from theres it comes close to allot of other companys is what I have been told. For example I think the Dalton 53-43 or 51-43 is real close to what I am running. TJE
 
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The reason I posted this is because of the helix #'s between Max's 40/34 being the same as Dalton's 53/51-43

Monster sorry about hijacking you thread but it seemed like a good place to make people think & talk ;)
 
DAN, I RAN TWO WEEK AGO WITH A GUY THAT HAS A 2000 SXr 700 , SIMILIAR SLED LIKE YOUR SONS. THIS SLED HAD TRIPLE PIPES ON IT BUT I DON,T REMEMBER WHOs. THEY JUST BOUGHT A CLUTCH KIT FROM HAUCK POWER SPORTS FOR IT. THEY SEEMED VERY UNHAPPY. I BELIEVE WHEN THEY FIRST GOT KIT, THE ENGAGEMENT WAS WAY TOO HIGH, THEY CALLED AND COMPLAINED AND RECIEVED ANOTHER SPRING. I BELIEVE THE WEIGHTS WERE 8AB. DON,T RECALL WHAT HELIX. THIS IS JUST A EXAMPLE OF BUYING A '' CLUTCH KIT ''. I HAVE HAD A GREAT SUSCESS ON vmax4.com JUST TELLING PEOPLE WHAT TO USE. ITS NO '' CLUTCH KIT ''. ITS STUFF I TRYED MYSELF OUT ON THE ICE OR IN A FIELD. NOW WHEN I INSTALLED MY H/C, I TALKED TO ALLAN, DON AND MIKE ABOUT DEFFERENT SET-UPS. PUT IT ALL TOGETHER AND THIS SLEDS BEEN GREAT. GOT TO TRY STUFF ONLY WAY YA KNOW. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
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Ok, Got a question on top speed & clutching...... Lots of max top speed riders on here, I myself dont care for top speed. I am all bout the 0-80 mph pull you arms out of their sockets & flat out get there before you buddy with all the mods or new iron :)

Can you gain topend speed by clutching (which is kind where this post started from)?
From the answers posted it looks like more can be lost than gained unless I missed something. A loss can come from too shallow finish on the helix causing a over-rev. But what if we dont have a over-rev? Say the tac is flat 8500 on a 2000 SRX @ 1000' running Clickers & the mph speed is the same as the 2000 SRX stocker.....It just got to the same speed quicker but gained no mph?
From testing I have found my sled will go into a all rev no pull when the helix gets to shallow....... It just dont load the motor as needed but it also does not go into a crazy over rev either. Why?

Using my Aaen, EPI, Clicker & Heavy Hitter clutch manuals max speed is gained by gearing. Now the Heavy Hitter tuning manual does refrence the heavy tipped weight & max speed that is overcome my loading the first & second hole useing the torque of the motor.

Ok these customers are really getting in the way of my keyboard fun.....
I'll be back ;)
 
humm interesting, from my testing also this is what i tought. i have a 51/37 dalton on my h/c setup, and its spot on 8500-8600 with the arms loaded (7.8g in the tips) the setup pulls like a freight train on 600ft, but after that its not faster than a stock srx even tho im ported. I've read the srx motor likes to be loaded, so i am assuming that my finish is too shallow (espacially since reading bushmans post saying daltons are usually like around 8 degrees off from other brands) So im assuming that if i'd try a 51/38 or 51/39 with a little less weight in the arms id get better top end results, im not a TOP speed guy either, but i've won alot of races on 1200-1500ft by barely being there the first one, the other guys where coming on me fast, i want to correct that haha. From what i understand from this thread (we need more of them, its been very instructive) on a h/c setup anyways on a srx you want to be able to run the steepest finish possible helix that the motor will pull with still a good amount of weight in you arms. I do find it bad tho that theres so mutch difference between that helix brands, the way i see it the only way to test properly is once you bought an helix from x brand you have to stick to that same brand if not youll be all over the place. I did some more mods to my motor now (going 780) and i know i will have to go to a higher finish angle. After talking with don i will try a 51/43 from an rx1 that i have here, now turk told me that that helix is more like a 48-42, gets confusing lol
 
Rambunctious said:
I chased all these "common" recipes too and continued an overrev condition.
bottom line. I went from a 54/41 to a 51/45. i got the fast shifting bottom end with the 51 ( srx can pull a faster shift, that's why it works) but kept a close to stock full shift out to finally get my top end rpm back to 8500
I have a green secondary which backshifts faster than my original red. so I think I have my perfect combo:

to recap:

WWW for higher engagement
4.5 gram heel and 51 initial angle for faster bottom end shifting (initial accelleration)
4.5 g tip (5.5 gram tip weight was lazy)and 45 finish angle for full shiftout.
( 41 finish angle over reved even with 5.5 tip weight ...note affect of 5.5 tip above)


and green ( stiffer than stock) secondary for quick backshift

oh, and 168 studs on a 1" camo

don't put too few studs in if you stud. they will tear out ( been there done that)
srx power needs 168 to 192 studs

now, when I hit the NOS, that's another story............ can't have everything...

Ramb
Click to expand...

Ramb that was a great post!!!!!
I was wondering if the yami W/W/W spring being softer than the Clicker Red can be the topend difference?
 
GUYS, I REALLY BELIEVE WEIGHTS LIKE H/C AND 8BU-00 ARE DRAG RACE WEIGHTS. ANOTHERS WORDS YOU BETTER HAVE A FINISH LINE. NOT TWO MILES DOWN THE LAKE. THESE WEIGHTS PUT DOWN SO MUCH POWER, THAT TELLS ME IN A DRAG RACE, THATS E.T. SO GUESS WHO WINS. I DON,T RUN OVER 1000 F.T. USUALY 660. UP WITH BUSH MAN, I LOVE THAT ACCLERATION. BUT HERE WE GO AGAIN. I HAVE HELD MY 2002 SRX 1/2 MILE IN A FIELD WITH 8BU AND IT NEVER STOPED PULLING. ANYBODY WANT TO GO OUT FOR A DRINK !! lol. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
Ok Drag guys, My buddys run the circle track cars & use VHT on there old tires to make them grip like new. I have a pile of old belts & was wondering who has tried VHT on the drive belts for drag racing? The VHT works on 20-50 lap races from a 2500# 800 H.P. car so why not a drive belt for 660'?

Now there is a random thought ;)

Now I am going to get a beer! C ya in the a.m.
 
daman said:
blue buddy JUST RIDE,,winter's going fast and your still under the hood
messing with the #$%&* clutching!!!!!

got 5 miles in today.. :ban:
Click to expand...
Hey daman your really burning up the fossil
fuel reserves. LOL

We have to make a name for clutching druggies......
Just can't get off it.LOL
Kinda get it close and leave it. It will never be bang on.
Enjoy the ride. :EXER: don't get caught up in it.
 
My take on clutching is it can always be better!!!!!! It sucks to say that but thats why there is so many posts on this.....I think that the kits are great for a guy that has no idea what is going on under the hood and just wants to feel like he is going faster. On the right day in the right conditions he will be. Any double rate helix is going to give you some benefits. For instance, when I bought my sled someone used it to race..It has a bender helix and spring with sxr weights and a green secondary. Not far from what I am running now. But when I got on the sled it would engage at 4600 rpm and it would pull about 9000 rpm....and was really flat at about 80mph... I am about 100 pounds lighter then the guy that owned it before me and I have also done other mods. Like new track without studs that effected my clutching. Furthermore condition make all the difference on clutching...if it 40F degrees out good luck pulling target rpm with a sled that is not jetted for it. The moral of my story is try to get as close as you can.....and when you can't, go put on 200 miles of smiles and tweek your clutching because you can:) I will say this though...a starting point with clutching, and a place to bounce ideas off of and what you should be shooting for, makes all the difference. Thats what this site is all about!!!
;)! :rocks: :beer: :beer: :beer:
 
daman...slow at work for the rest of the week,so I am home today and rest of the week.No money coming in.You think that your 5 miles was saving on fossil fuel,I put on only 1/4 mile today.Gas prices went up again and premium is $1.20 a litre.So that is $5.40 per gallon.Won't be to many long runs anymore..to costly.If I drove my sled steady for about 9-10 hours..that would cost be about $210.00 in fuel and oil.Can't keep doing that when the cash is slow in coming in.Nice day here today to ride,but decide to hold off and do a little tomorrow.Our gas is due to go up to $1.50/litre for regular by the summer.The grass ain't goint to cut much this summer either.Everytime I cut it costs me about $25.oo in gas for the tractor.
Last weekend just farting around with the sled,easily spent $150,not counting oil.Times are changing,not like when I was young and I was using my dad's Purple farm gas for free.But it was cheap also.This is where 4-stroke sleds will shine I guess.But can't see putting out $15,000 for a new sled here.Will ride the X's until they die I guess or stop when it will cost me $5.00 for every mile ridden.I can see why in the future sledding probably will be in decline.Not to many young people can afford to get into this sport.To costly right off the start..sled costs,oil,gas,insurance,repairs..and on and on.
 
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