Long Track Phazer II Gearing

BigMan76

BigMan76

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Joined
Nov 14, 2005
Messages
421
Location
Chicago SW 'Burbs
So I long-tracked a '96 Phazer II for off-trail riidng (courtesy of CB Performance). This is one my Phazers with an Aaen pipe, plastic skis, Ripsaw track, mild porting, roller secondary).

I ran it this winter and the long-track easily took 15-20 mph off the top end (could hit 85 ish or so before); the sled wil barely turn 60 at WOT.

A buddy mentioned gearing; I love sleds but am not so mechanically inclined (probably more $$ than sense accoridng to my brother-I love the old iron).

Thoughts as to the top end loss? Not super concerned with top end as this is a back coountry sled now but it still would be nice to try and get any of that loss back.
 
what size track you running?
did you have to switch the driver size? thats where your MPH lose could be?
 
Yeah, a friend suggested gearing down. I ran stock drivers but had a local shop do the work. I used the Yamaha factory long-track package so I believe that took me to 128 (same as a stock long-track Phazer II would be).
 
So any information on how I go about getting the parts I woudl need to re-gear? New area for me; I will most likely have someone else do this as it is waaay beyond me.
 
do you know which gearing you currently have? its likely the 18/29 try switching over to 17/33 gearing.
 
Just thought I would revive this thread as I am probably going to have this work done; any thoughts on the gearing-how complex will this be?
 
Big, You'll have to remove the Rt. side fan intake shroud, the Rt. rear drop down side panel, then pull the exhaust pipe. Next if there isn't a belly pan drain hole for the oil to drain thru directly below the chain case cover do your self a favor and drill one in the depression of the plastic bottom. Block the left ski up 6" to keep the oil from running under the engine area, place an oil pan under drain hole you just drilled then remove the chain case cover. Remove the Cotter key on top jack shaft nut then, Lock the parking brake to loosen the nut on the jack shaft and bolt on the drive shaft. Back the chain tightner all the way out after you loosen the lock nut to remove the gears. Take some kerosene and clean the insides of the case and cover. Remember after installing new gears tighten the chain Finger tight then back off 1/2 turn and then tighten lock nut. F.Y.I. Do NOT overtighten the small bolts on the chain case cover.
 
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15 to 20 mph seems like more of a loss than there should have been. You might want to check into things before you make changes. Is the track too tight? What were the conditions when you ran it? Was there enough lubrication? Warm conditions with loose, sticky snow? Have you talked with the shop that did the work? They may be able to help with an answer.
 
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