brandon_markie
New member
I just recently installed tripple pipes on my viper and this is the first time iv'e piped anything. I noticed the rpms only hit about 7000 or so. i have clutch kit for it which i will install tomorrow but i was wondering if this was normal without changing the cluthcing?
extreme4max4rules
New member
u have to re clutch and u need to know what the max rpms are for those pipes so they will have a clutch kit that works for those pipes, allso the spring in ur secondary clutch will need a up date 2, u put after market pipes on u have to redoo all parts to work with those pipes Al Larson
redsnake3
New member
that is very strange, with more power from the pipes it should spin alot higher rpms. what pipes are they and what is your jetting?
Stock clutching should be overrevving like crazy. Did you change the jetting also (must do that immediately)or are your low rpm,s coming from detonating the motor?please don,t tell us you just bolted on the pipes & drove the sled?
brandon_markie
New member
no i jetted the sled 165 across, opened the fuel screws 3/8 of a turn.
Is the dcs light coming on? You have to change the pilot jets also. If its not over revving with the stock clutch either there's something wrong with the clutch or the dcs is coming on limiting the rpm. Be absolutely sure you have the reccomended jetting for those pipes or it will melt down if it hasn't started already. Check your plugs and piston wash.
ExpertXViper
New member
brandon_markie said:no i jetted the sled 165 across, opened the fuel screws 3/8 of a turn.
I hope you moved those needles up to or youll for sure burn down in mid range.
You mean you opened it 3/8 of a turn more? Or is it only open 3/8th of a turn?brandon_markie said:no i jetted the sled 165 across, opened the fuel screws 3/8 of a turn.
I wouldn't be riding this thing until you get your jetting right and it doesn't sound like that's been done. Post what type of pipes you have and everyone can help you get setup before you burn the motor down.
brandon_markie
New member
I bought the pipes from inline4 the only instruction he gave me as far as tunning goes are
"165 main jets
turn fuel screw 3/8 open"
so i need to move the needles up? what excatly does that do?
sorry for my ignorance on this subject, this is my first time incrasing performance, as opposed to just reparing.
"165 main jets
turn fuel screw 3/8 open"
so i need to move the needles up? what excatly does that do?
sorry for my ignorance on this subject, this is my first time incrasing performance, as opposed to just reparing.
brandon_markie
New member
Oh yeah they're Aaen pipes. i havent been riding it to much i just took it across the lawn a couple of times before i relized something werent right and slowly drove it back to my garage and i turned the screw 3/8 open more. the sled starts and idles fine.
ExpertXViper
New member
Dropping the e-clip down on the needle will make the needle sit higher which richens your jetting, normally needed when piping a Viper. The needle is where you normally spend most of your time when trail riding.
Idle-1/8 Throttle= Fuel Screw
1/8-3/4 Throttle= Needle/Pilot
3/4-WOT Throttle= Main Jet
Contact VIPERTOM or MAXDLX, I know theyve both ran these pipes with good results.
FYI when piping a Viper its not for someone that thinks its a bolt on and go deal. It takes time to tune clutching and jetting to make them work and work safely, so it doesnt cost you $$$$ in the end. Cause it will cost $$$ if you dont take the MOD serious.
Idle-1/8 Throttle= Fuel Screw
1/8-3/4 Throttle= Needle/Pilot
3/4-WOT Throttle= Main Jet
Contact VIPERTOM or MAXDLX, I know theyve both ran these pipes with good results.
FYI when piping a Viper its not for someone that thinks its a bolt on and go deal. It takes time to tune clutching and jetting to make them work and work safely, so it doesnt cost you $$$$ in the end. Cause it will cost $$$ if you dont take the MOD serious.
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brandon_markie
New member
i knew it werent bolt on and go. i changed the jets to what i was told and put in my cluthch kit. im just in the tweaking phase to get it run the way it needs too.
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brandon_markie
New member
Quick update clutch kits in and pulled the needle up one notch but still the same problem. Smaller mains mayby? the plug wash for idle is good. Havent checked the mid range so much but dont really know what to make of WOT because im scared to hold her open for too long.
So you put a clutch kit in it that was made for the pipes and it still only hits 7000??? Aaens run at like 9100?!?!? Is your parking brake on?
taylzee
New member
This may sound dumb, but are your exhaust gaskets in upside down? I don't know what the Vipers are like but you can get the red heads upside down and it will block off a portion of the exhaust port which can cause symptoms like this.
Just a thought.
If it's not an improper mechanical installation, I'd be looking at your secondary real close.
Just a thought.
If it's not an improper mechanical installation, I'd be looking at your secondary real close.
brandon_markie
New member
the weird thing is everything thing is right the gaskets are right so they fit around the power valves so they are right. the jetting is right according i pulled the powervavles thinkin they are upside down but eeything seems ok the clutch kit was not made for the pipes but it seems right heavier weights and spring on the primary and a different helix on the secondary. tommow im going to put in smaller jets a re adjust the secondry. how should i install it (preload)
mod-it
Member
At this point, I think it would help a lot if you posted what you have in the clutches. List what arms, weights, and spring you have in the primary & what spring, helix, and twist in the secondary.
As far as jetting, did the person that recommended your jetting even ride at the same elevation and temps? Also list this info. As an example, even though I have different pipes, since I ride at 6000', I have my jetting at stock specs to get the plug color that I want (note that I also have high-flows which lean it out more than just pipes). Fuel screws are opened more than stock, but I can't remember just how much without looking it up in my notes. It's all in what elevation and temps you ride at.
As far as jetting, did the person that recommended your jetting even ride at the same elevation and temps? Also list this info. As an example, even though I have different pipes, since I ride at 6000', I have my jetting at stock specs to get the plug color that I want (note that I also have high-flows which lean it out more than just pipes). Fuel screws are opened more than stock, but I can't remember just how much without looking it up in my notes. It's all in what elevation and temps you ride at.
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
Like mod ^ said I would go back over everything....I post what the clutching is like what the jetting is like...I would re open up the power valves and make sure there is nothing wrong in there! Something is going on. I would do this before I went out and blew it up!!!Restate what temps and elevation you ride at and see what people can help you with. How many miles do you have on it? Does the servo motor work when you start the sled up and run it on a stand? How about electrical, is there a short somewhere? Put it up on a stand and warm it up, and rev it up and make sure everything looks right!!!
brandon_markie
New member
i didnt even think about the servo motor cause i did act like i was loosing power but i check the powervalves. i talked to a few guys and they think mayby i didnt set my secondary back up right so thats going to my first priority tonight
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
Like I said clutching something that is flooding out is a waste of time....my 2 cents!!!