Viper843
New member
I have a used 03 Viper that is suffering the stator problem many posts have also espressed. My problem is apparently the previous owner tried to remove the flywheel at some point and stripped 1 of the three 5mm screws that I need for the flywheel puller. I tried to drill out the screw and use an easy out only to break that tool! Now I cant drill it out again.
I can put the flywheel puller on with 2 screws but I am afraid of bending the crank and breaking more stuff. Man they use some tough lock-tite on the bolts...I am guessing my next option is to try an impact wrench and hope for the best....any suggestions?
I can put the flywheel puller on with 2 screws but I am afraid of bending the crank and breaking more stuff. Man they use some tough lock-tite on the bolts...I am guessing my next option is to try an impact wrench and hope for the best....any suggestions?
valin
Active member
you can't pull it with 2 screws, obviously. You can either drill and tap 3 new holes, being very careful not to drill into the stator, or do your best to drill out that easyout, and then tap it with a slightly larger thread.
Viper843
New member
thanks for the good suggestion - I had not thought about drilling new holes. do I need to be concerned about balancing on the flywheel later with new bolts/holes?
Also - how much pressure does it take to remove the flywheel - is an impact wrench required or can it be done slowly with a breaker bar
Also - how much pressure does it take to remove the flywheel - is an impact wrench required or can it be done slowly with a breaker bar
800
New member
When you say stripped, you mean the allen head is stripped? If so you can use a good sharp chisel, catch it right on the edge of the button head and tap it around, it will come out, I get those all the time.
If the screw hole is stripped, just heli coil it right on the sled.
If the screw hole is stripped, just heli coil it right on the sled.
valin
Active member
The flywheel is pressed on with 80 ft. lbs. of torque. It can be pulled off with a breaker bar if you brace the clutch. If the clutch is off, then an impact is required.
mod-it
Member
My flywheel popped off with the puller with just a friend holding the primary by hand, never did have to use a bar.
Be careful with the phillips screws holding the stator on, and also the phillip screws that hold the stator wire in place, they could also be easily stripped. Match up a phillip head with them carefully.
I don't know if the chisel trick will work since you tried to drill it out, but it does work pretty good if there's enough left to get a hold of. By the way, mine didn't have any locktight on them, but were still tough to get loose.
Be careful with the phillips screws holding the stator on, and also the phillip screws that hold the stator wire in place, they could also be easily stripped. Match up a phillip head with them carefully.
I don't know if the chisel trick will work since you tried to drill it out, but it does work pretty good if there's enough left to get a hold of. By the way, mine didn't have any locktight on them, but were still tough to get loose.
Skidooslayer687
Member
an impact driver i found worked best on mine to break the screws loose on both the crank and the 2 little screws holding the wire retainer on.
Your best to get a left handed extractor set, i've used them many times at work to pull broken bolts etc out. The advantage of it is that when you drill the left hand hole, it will sometimes actually help loosen the bolt itself and then when it comes time to use the easy out its a lot easier.... just my 2 cents
Your best to get a left handed extractor set, i've used them many times at work to pull broken bolts etc out. The advantage of it is that when you drill the left hand hole, it will sometimes actually help loosen the bolt itself and then when it comes time to use the easy out its a lot easier.... just my 2 cents
lay a large nut(cut thin) over the broken or cut off threaded part of the bolt. then just start a bead of weld in the middle letting it pile up for a bit then spot weld it to the nut as it gets to be the same height. let it cool naturally, no water, after about 30seconds, you can start to turn it. welding the shaft of the bolt heats the bolt up and expands it in the hole, when it cools, it is a tiny bit smaller. also, if it had locktite on it, it would burn off. welding the nut on the top, well that helps a little two.
Yamablue
Member
I used a three jaw puller from Harbor Freight and a hammer to shock it off. That darn bugger sure gave me a bad day. I also stripped the head on the plate that holds on the pickup coil, I just ended up bending it out of the way.
themaninblack
New member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2006
- Messages
- 16
I recently replaced my Stator. Although I finally got it, I too stripped a few bolts started with the first allen head one's and one of the phillips holding on the stator. I had a similar problem last year replacing my slides. Dam Phillips screws holding them on. Had to drill and re tap. I thought Yamaha would be smarter than to use allen keys and Phillips screws. What's wrong with Hex heads?
Viper843
New member
Thanks for all the advice and inputs. I managed to get the allen head off with the chisel method pretty cleanly.
I did replace the allen heads with metric hex screws from Home depot for 32 cents. Will be nice if I ever have to do this again.
New stator fixed the mid range power and electrical/speedo reset issues.
I did replace the allen heads with metric hex screws from Home depot for 32 cents. Will be nice if I ever have to do this again.
New stator fixed the mid range power and electrical/speedo reset issues.
800
New member
I use the Exciter case drain bolts, 10mm head with a flange, some of those bolts you buy at the hardware store just ain't what they're supposed to be, China bolts are not rated the same as ours if you didn't know.