Asphalt performance question

Fro

New member
Joined
Feb 5, 2007
Messages
226
Age
54
Location
Howell, Mi
I will be hitting the drag strip for the first time in another month. I have some friends that do it who will help me get the hang of it. My question is to the guys that have done it, or from ice racers which may produce similar results. Without any engine mods, only gear & clutch testing...what do you think is the top speed & ET I could expect. I know there are factors that influence your runs, but all things being perfect what's the best it can do.


Next question. If the speed bug bites me & I start to look for more. Are there some gains to be made with somewhat minor engine mods?...airbox, cylinder gaskets, head shaving...I heard someone say once to put 600 heads on to increase comp...is that even an option or does this guy not know what he's talking about...could go either way from what I know of him.

For now, this is still my trail sled...may change to just a racer depending on how it goes. So I'm not really looking to go radical on engine mods for reliability sake & $$.

Also, if anyone has any tar parts for sale, I may be interested. I picked up a used track but still want another. Need skis too. Getting ready to pull & mod my skid in the next week or so.

Any other setup advice would be appreciated. I just got the rules yesterday from the track (Miland, MI).

Thanks
 
Also, what about exhaust. It seems for the trails everyone says stock is better. What about the track. I see so many that run no can at all & have them exit out the side. What about cutting a stock can to get the flanges & welding 3 staight pipes onto them & piping it straight down thru the stock belly pan hole. Just throwing out some ideas. Not sure what effect it would have on pressure or jetting.
 
Here is my SRX 600 that I run on the Drag Strip, it runs 6.90 @ 100 in the 1/8th mile all day long. It has a Whal Bros Ice Suspension that I converted to run on the Drag Strip with the 10" track and Whal ski's. The motor is built for Improved Stock with Hauck race pipe, CDI box & clutching. I am a bigger guy and 6'1" tall and weigh 240lbs. I took 5lbs pounds out of the stock seat by taking a 2 1/2 holesaw to it and removing all of the foam, the gas tank has been gutted and has no front or bottom I run use the oil tank as my gas tank. The hood is a light weight fiberglass and kevlar. All total I have taken 100lbs of the sled so far. The next big purchase will be CB Performace light weight front end kit with sterring post and a 800 big bore kit.

Hank
 

Attachments

  • 100_0594_edited (Small).JPG
    100_0594_edited (Small).JPG
    50.9 KB · Views: 11
Last edited:
If you have a stocker stick with the stock pipes and stock Muffler.
Run no air box,it's faster and no dust on aspahlt.Out of a 99 you should be able to get into 10.60@118 in the 1/4 with jetting,suspension,clutching tuned i well.Remove you transfer rods and out side wheels and put in a 10 5,8" track.It's worth about 2tenths and a couple mph.

My buddies bone stock 01 srx with stock skid.Stock jetting,stock,clutching the only thing he did was remove the airbox and geared down 1 tooth.He did no suspension tuning so the 60 ft's where horriable and it ran 10.69@117mph it was out of gear over reving bad before the 1/4 mile.
 
Last edited:
My 1999 SRX went 10.89 @ 119 MPH BONE STOCK with BONE STOCK clutching and BONE STOCK everything.. Removing the airbox and clutching got the srx into LOW TENS... It just depends on HOW CLOSE you are away from somewhere to test and how much time and money you are willing to put into the sport!!!! i was into it 9 - 10 years ago and the players were a LOT DIFFERENT!!!! (so were the rules).. It seems a LOT FRIENDLIER these days..
 
I think the guy I sold my SRX to did the clutching mods, and wound up 10.18 or 10.16 in the quarter!!!! needless to say,, I KNOW NOTHING about clutching!!!!
 
pro116 said:
If you have a stocker stick with the stock pipes and stock Muffler.
Run no air box,it's faster and no dust on aspahlt.Out of a 99 you should be able to get into 10.60@118 in the 1/4 with jetting,suspension,clutching tuned i well.Remove you transfer rods and out side wheels and put in a 10 5,8" track.It's worth about 2tenths and a couple mph.

My buddies bone stock 01 srx with stock skid.Stock jetting,stock,clutching the only thing he did was remove the airbox and geared down 1 tooth.He did no suspension tuning so the 60 ft's where horriable and it ran 10.69@117mph it was out of gear over reving bad before the 1/4 mile.

So you mean nothing at all?

Also this may sound dumb to you guys but do you jet for the temps? I read some past threads & some said they left the stock jets in. I have a Yami manual showing a jet chart up to 60*F. Temps thru the summers here average 80*ish. My current jets are 146.3 & 148.8 & 42.5 PJ. Wouldn't you gain power going down in size for the temps?


So for the 10" track you just need to remove the outside wheels & add more to the inside? Does it affect the drivers at all?

Also geared at 22/37. I have the stock 23 top gear too. Running the "WWW" set-up. For now I'm gonna play with the RX-1 helix vs the 47 & try the "www" vs stock. After I get used to it I'll look into some other set-ups on here. Even thought about HC's but think I'll start off with what I have first. I see that 8BU setup gets alot of praise also. Just need to educate myself on how these setups respond to gearing etc.

Thanks for the help.
 
Last edited:
wagmtrspts said:
Here is my SRX 600 that I run on the Drag Strip, it runs 6.90 @ 100 in the 1/8th mile all day long. It has a Whal Bros Ice Suspension that I converted to run on the Drag Strip with the 10" track and Whal ski's. The motor is built for Improved Stock with Hauck race pipe, CDI box & clutching. I am a bigger guy and 6'1" tall and weigh 240lbs. I took 5lbs pounds out of the stock seat by taking a 2 1/2 holesaw to it and removing all of the foam, the gas tank has been gutted and has no front or bottom I run use the oil tank as my gas tank. The hood is a light weight fiberglass and kevlar. All total I have taken 100lbs of the sled so far. The next big purchase will be CB Performace light weight front end kit with sterring post and a 800 big bore kit.

Hank

So you use the stock oil tank & fill it with pre-mix? Did you have to mod it by running the fuel line to it I assume?

Nice sled btw. Do you run any 1/4 mile times.
 
Last edited:
When i raced my mach z i didnt want to spend a lot of money so this is what i did.
-bought a used asphalt track
-chained the stock rear suspension down
-installed 12" prostock shocks in front
-made an air dam
-bought a set of used ski's
-Stripped the sled of anything i could to save weight
-ran egt gages
-put adjustable weights in clutch
-geared down 2 sizes on top
-installed quick disconnects for cool down cart

Other than that i just ran time trials and tried different helixes,springs,ramps until
i found a set up i was happy with.

When setting up my clutch i ran the secondary as loose as possible and loaded
the pins as heavy as i could without pulling the motor down

I wasnt the fastest out there but i was consistant and went to the finals quite
a few times which was pretty good considering what i was up against.I ran high 6's in the 1/8.
 
Fro said:
So you use the stock oil tank & fill it with pre-mix? Did you have to mod it by running the fuel line to it I assume?

Nice sled btw. Do you run any 1/4 mile times.


I just ran my stock tank and left the oil injection on.This was also my winter sled so i didnt wanna go too far because its a pain in the *** to change everything back every year.
 
Thanks for the Compliment its always a work in progress. Yes I hooked the oil tank up to the fuel pump and run pre mix. I found out running the oil injection on the ice in speed runs puts to much oil in the gas for racing than needed early in runnung Improved Stock. For 5 gallons of VP110 I use 10oz of oil from Justice Bros. I also run EGT gauges, VDO replay tach and tune for jetting/clutching. I run my EGT's between 1200-1250. I set my carbs up the first year like this to start out. 55 pilots at 1 1/2 turns 147.5 jets all the way accross and the clip on the needles #4 grove from top and No air box . BUT ALSO REMENBER MY MOTOR HAS BEEN PORTED THE HEADS HAVE BEEN RE DONE AND THE CARBS ARE BORED TO 34MM. After a few weekends I made changes to the jets and somtimes now with my weatherstation I do it two or three times durring a race. 1/8 mile my gearing is 1.9. and when I did run it on the 1/4 mile I used a 1.6 ratio. I have not run it on the 1/4 since it has been made into an Improver and with the weight reduction when it was stock it ran low 11 @ 110-112

If you use a 10" track with you stock susspension make sure you put another set of guide wheels up top or the track will ride on the upper shock mount and I have found that in the rails them selves use just enough wheels to keep the track planted to race track but do not go over board and remove the slides. I removed the outer drivers and only run the inner two with the 10" track and if you put it back to winter use for the trail you can just press them back on. DO chain the suspension down to about 3" of travel it will help the 60' time and keep the front end down also tighten up the limeter straps as far as you can go. I took mine apart and drilled more holes in them so I could suck up the front of the rails so they were about 1" to 1.5" from the arm. This will help with roling resistance alot.

Hank
 
Last edited:
wagmtrspts said:
Thanks for the Compliment its always a work in progress. Yes I hooked the oil tank up to the fuel pump and run pre mix. I found out running the oil injection on the ice in speed runs puts to much oil in the gas for racing than needed early in runnung Improved Stock. For 5 gallons of VP110 I use 10oz of oil from Justice Bros. I also run EGT gauges, VDO replay tach and tune for jetting/clutching. I run my EGT's between 1200-1250. I set my carbs up the first year like this to start out. 55 pilots at 1 1/2 turns 147.5 jets all the way accross and the clip on the needles #4 grove from top and No air box . BUT ALSO REMENBER MY MOTOR HAS BEEN PORTED THE HEADS HAVE BEEN RE DONE AND THE CARBS ARE BORED TO 34MM. After a few weekends I made changes to the jets and somtimes now with my weatherstation I do it two or three times durring a race. 1/8 mile my gearing is 1.9. and when I did run it on the 1/4 mile I used a 1.6 ratio. I have not run it on the 1/4 since it has been made into an Improver and with the weight reduction when it was stock it ran low 11 @ 110-112

If you use a 10" track with you stock susspension make sure you put another set of guide wheels up top or the track will ride on the upper shock mount and I have found that in the rails them selves use just enough wheels to keep the track planted to race track but do not go over board and remove the slides. I removed the outer drivers and only run the inner two with the 10" track and if you put it back to winter use for the trail you can just press them back on. DO chain the suspension down to about 3" of travel it will help the 60' time and keep the front end down also tighten up the limeter straps as far as you can go. I took mine apart and drilled more holes in them so I could suck up the front of the rails so they were about 1" to 1.5" from the arm. This will help with roling resistance alot.

Hank

Awesome. Thanks for sharing this info.
 
Hey, no problem thats what we are here for to help each other out. Good luck and have fun it is a rush and a lot of fun.
 


Back
Top