yammyhamer408
New member
hey guys changing my stock track to a ripsaw was do for one cut the old track off seeing that it was no good at all 20 000k will do that to a track need help geting the drive axel out cant get the chain case open on my 02 viper er what am i doing rongneed hekp soon as posibal and wil a 1.25 fit with out changing the drive sprokets
Warning I am not a pro, however I just went through this myself, other will tell you some tricks & short cuts...but this will get you started...
Procedure for Replacing your Track (mostly taken fron the tech sec, but revised for sensor type speedo, not cable)
Note: Make sure you have the bearings & seals you need first, late in the season stock is hard to find...always replace the speedo side bearings...if & only if the chain case inner housing is clean (no signs of failed oil seal) you should be good...if not, you will have to replace those seals & bearings (top & bottom)
1) Remove skid frame (Suspension) See tech page for Installation of Suspension.
2) Remove Belt cover & secondary clutch, note: washers & placements
3) Remove the 2 set screws that hold the bearing on the drive axel (speedo side) from underneath the sled. These set screws are on the bearing color on the speedo side inside the tunnel. You may have to roll the axle to get the alignment you need. (Note; keep the set screws cause sometimes they don't come with the new one)
4) Remove all nuts & speedo cable sensor & pickup gear from the axel under the secondary near bottom of the belly pan. Drill out or chisel off the two pop-rivets.
5) Then go to the chain case side. Remove exhaust , might have to remove battery if you have electric start.
Remove 12 mm drain plug from back side of chain case ( reach underneath in the tunnel and you should feel the bolt head), drain case oil. Remove chain case cover bolts. Then pull on cover very carefully (do not pull hard on the cover seal- it will stretch). Make sure you have a drain pan under the sled, there will be some oil that will come out. If you have reverse you have to be careful of the shift linkage and how it come off as you pull the chain case cover. Note; you can use the parking & regular brakes to hold the the chain to loosen the bottom (first) gear bolt, then the top.
6) Make sure as you remove , linkage, gears, spacers, nuts, chain, chain tensioner and so on, that you lay them out exactly as you have removed them. (Note: Crack the chain tensioner jamb nut loose and screw it out all the way leaving jamb nut on. Also the tensioner when reinstalled will need to be finger tight before locking jamb nut.)
7) Remove the top bolt that holds the top gear to the brake drive axel and remove the bottom bolt that holds the bottom gear to the bottom drive axel. If need be use the brake to hold the axel steady while you brake the bolts loose.
Remove the brake caliper and parking brake cable and flip it out of the way. The brake line can stay on the main brake.
9) Now remove the main bolts that hold the chain case to the tunnel. Then pull back on the chain case slowly and evenly, it will be very snug. Be careful and watch for the key that holds the brake disc to the shaft as you pull the chain case back. Be sure all nuts, gears , chain, chain tensioner, spacers.... ect are removed prior to pulling chain case back.
10) After chain case is pull bake and or removed then go back to the speedo side and pull the drive axel thru the speedo cover hole and the 2 set screws that hold the bearing on the drive axel should have been removed prior. Then pull bearing, if tight use a 3 jaw puller to assist you.
11) After bearing is out you should be able to push the drive axel all the way to the speedo side and tilt the shaft down and out. Now your track should be out. To install use the same directions and work backwards.
Tip: When removing the chain case spray behind the chain case on the Jackshaft around the keyway with WD-40 or some other penetrating oil. The key rusts into the keyway and sort of locks it on, this may help.
Tip from mrviper700.
Easy way- get a 1 1/8" socket or 29mm metric,(1/2" drive), and put on the parking brake or hold the brake on and break it loose. Then remove the lower bolt (14mm head)on bottom sprocket, then remove chain and gears. Unbolt the 14mm headed chain case bolts, remove the 2 bolts for the brake caliper and move out of the way. Then grab ahold of the brake rotor, and the chaincase and slip it out off the shafts, (sometimes you have to pull and wiggle at the same time)you only have to pull the case out about halfway out to remove the driveshaft, be sure to take note of the brake rotor key in the jasckshaft, do not under any circumstance remove the parking brake assembly, youll fight for hours trying to reassemble it, been there done that, theres enuff room to leave it all intact and just slip the chaincase out enuff to get the driveshaft out, its very easy this way.
Heres a pic of how far you need to slip it out, notice I left the brake caliper on because the rotor was nice and free , if it isnt youll need to remove it (caliper)and wiggle and pull like I described above.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24127&stc=1
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/chaincase1.jpg
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/chaincase2.jpg
Re install in revers order, adjust chain while cover is off & add oil, I run amsoil full-syn A.T.F. (also have over 21,000 km's)
Good luck, have any ?, just ask...cheers
Procedure for Replacing your Track (mostly taken fron the tech sec, but revised for sensor type speedo, not cable)
Note: Make sure you have the bearings & seals you need first, late in the season stock is hard to find...always replace the speedo side bearings...if & only if the chain case inner housing is clean (no signs of failed oil seal) you should be good...if not, you will have to replace those seals & bearings (top & bottom)
1) Remove skid frame (Suspension) See tech page for Installation of Suspension.
2) Remove Belt cover & secondary clutch, note: washers & placements
3) Remove the 2 set screws that hold the bearing on the drive axel (speedo side) from underneath the sled. These set screws are on the bearing color on the speedo side inside the tunnel. You may have to roll the axle to get the alignment you need. (Note; keep the set screws cause sometimes they don't come with the new one)
4) Remove all nuts & speedo cable sensor & pickup gear from the axel under the secondary near bottom of the belly pan. Drill out or chisel off the two pop-rivets.
5) Then go to the chain case side. Remove exhaust , might have to remove battery if you have electric start.
Remove 12 mm drain plug from back side of chain case ( reach underneath in the tunnel and you should feel the bolt head), drain case oil. Remove chain case cover bolts. Then pull on cover very carefully (do not pull hard on the cover seal- it will stretch). Make sure you have a drain pan under the sled, there will be some oil that will come out. If you have reverse you have to be careful of the shift linkage and how it come off as you pull the chain case cover. Note; you can use the parking & regular brakes to hold the the chain to loosen the bottom (first) gear bolt, then the top.
6) Make sure as you remove , linkage, gears, spacers, nuts, chain, chain tensioner and so on, that you lay them out exactly as you have removed them. (Note: Crack the chain tensioner jamb nut loose and screw it out all the way leaving jamb nut on. Also the tensioner when reinstalled will need to be finger tight before locking jamb nut.)
7) Remove the top bolt that holds the top gear to the brake drive axel and remove the bottom bolt that holds the bottom gear to the bottom drive axel. If need be use the brake to hold the axel steady while you brake the bolts loose.
Remove the brake caliper and parking brake cable and flip it out of the way. The brake line can stay on the main brake. 9) Now remove the main bolts that hold the chain case to the tunnel. Then pull back on the chain case slowly and evenly, it will be very snug. Be careful and watch for the key that holds the brake disc to the shaft as you pull the chain case back. Be sure all nuts, gears , chain, chain tensioner, spacers.... ect are removed prior to pulling chain case back.
10) After chain case is pull bake and or removed then go back to the speedo side and pull the drive axel thru the speedo cover hole and the 2 set screws that hold the bearing on the drive axel should have been removed prior. Then pull bearing, if tight use a 3 jaw puller to assist you.
11) After bearing is out you should be able to push the drive axel all the way to the speedo side and tilt the shaft down and out. Now your track should be out. To install use the same directions and work backwards.
Tip: When removing the chain case spray behind the chain case on the Jackshaft around the keyway with WD-40 or some other penetrating oil. The key rusts into the keyway and sort of locks it on, this may help.
Tip from mrviper700.
Easy way- get a 1 1/8" socket or 29mm metric,(1/2" drive), and put on the parking brake or hold the brake on and break it loose. Then remove the lower bolt (14mm head)on bottom sprocket, then remove chain and gears. Unbolt the 14mm headed chain case bolts, remove the 2 bolts for the brake caliper and move out of the way. Then grab ahold of the brake rotor, and the chaincase and slip it out off the shafts, (sometimes you have to pull and wiggle at the same time)you only have to pull the case out about halfway out to remove the driveshaft, be sure to take note of the brake rotor key in the jasckshaft, do not under any circumstance remove the parking brake assembly, youll fight for hours trying to reassemble it, been there done that, theres enuff room to leave it all intact and just slip the chaincase out enuff to get the driveshaft out, its very easy this way.
Heres a pic of how far you need to slip it out, notice I left the brake caliper on because the rotor was nice and free , if it isnt youll need to remove it (caliper)and wiggle and pull like I described above.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24127&stc=1
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/chaincase1.jpg
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/chaincase2.jpg
Re install in revers order, adjust chain while cover is off & add oil, I run amsoil full-syn A.T.F. (also have over 21,000 km's)
Good luck, have any ?, just ask...cheers
Last edited:
yammyhamer408
New member
hey man thanks track whent in with out a hitch first time doing it and the instructions were amzing worked great and the new 1.25 ripsaw is and amsing track the vip will stand on end now on hard or soft snow its sweet ill take some videos and post them on youtube r the ripsaws eny good for water cross
yammyhamer408
New member
the lugs do rub on the heatexchanger just to say should i change out for and 8 tooth drive there is studs going in next season
No...just trim slightly (tack where it rubs) or let it wear in...Or...remove the front protectors...???your choice...cheers...be careful with studs... I just threw some into my front cooler...ouch & costly...
Last edited:
yammyhamer408
New member
im not puting studs in till nexwinter mid way thru and there will be 192 of them in it
xsivhp
Active member
to stud the ripsaw you'll need to go to 8 tooth drivers. also - rmove the tunnel protectors or they'll tear chunks out of you track.