YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
LIKE MATT AND DON POSTED, KLOTZ IS ONE OF THE BEST. 104 BEEN AROUND FOR YEARS. I BELIEVE THERE WAS A POST EITHER HERE OR AMSNOW ABOUT THE FUEL ISSUE TODAY AND HOW TORCO WAS MAKING A GREAT OCTANE BOOSTER. I AM SHURE YOU CAN FIND ALL INFO OF THESE PRODUCTS ON THEIR WEBSITES. 3:16 (yammie tony)
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bufalobob
Member
below is a quote from dyno tech jim on his blog page
http://www.dynotechresearch.com/blog/archives.asp?chosenMonth=2&chosenYear=2008#205 ( free info )
" being hosed at the pump".
" Octane boosters so far have proven useless to me. My own motor octane tester is a 2000 Silverado 5.3 with twin GT25 Garrett turbos and completely stock EFI system. This truck has 112,000 miles all with turbos, and it knocks on what they call "tip in" as throttle is depressed, before the computer senses the MAF is in the twilight zone compared to what is normal. This one second rattle is annoying, but harmless in eight years. With 100 unleaded, there is no audible knock at all. Some octane boosters have been tried with no success. I even tried some name brand stuff that's supposed to make "race gas" out of pump gas. You'd think I knew better, but this was a free sample for testing by Terry Paine. A quart to five gallons did nothing, two quarts to five gallons did nothing but make us laugh.
Leaded race gas or 100LL Av gas is in my opinion the only reliable octane booster for pump gas."
yg316 called it.
bob
http://www.dynotechresearch.com/blog/archives.asp?chosenMonth=2&chosenYear=2008#205 ( free info )
" being hosed at the pump".
" Octane boosters so far have proven useless to me. My own motor octane tester is a 2000 Silverado 5.3 with twin GT25 Garrett turbos and completely stock EFI system. This truck has 112,000 miles all with turbos, and it knocks on what they call "tip in" as throttle is depressed, before the computer senses the MAF is in the twilight zone compared to what is normal. This one second rattle is annoying, but harmless in eight years. With 100 unleaded, there is no audible knock at all. Some octane boosters have been tried with no success. I even tried some name brand stuff that's supposed to make "race gas" out of pump gas. You'd think I knew better, but this was a free sample for testing by Terry Paine. A quart to five gallons did nothing, two quarts to five gallons did nothing but make us laugh.
Leaded race gas or 100LL Av gas is in my opinion the only reliable octane booster for pump gas."
yg316 called it.
bob
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I tried some aftermarket octane booster earlier, didn't help me a thing, but the yamaha one helped some
800
New member
Well I guess since no one answered his original question, I will, yes, if you want to disable it to make sure it doesn't come on for your race you can. Take the sensor out of the water rail, but you should ground it, get a nut to screw on it, it's a common 10mm thread, make a ground wire with eyelets to attach to the sensor and to ground, hang the sensor off to the side, it will not come on.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
DUDE, WHY BOTHER !!! WHAT SENSE IT MAKE DISABLEING THIS SYSTEM. RUN GOOD FUEL FOR THE ZILLIONTH TIME. I ALSO BELIEVE OCTANE BOOSTERS ARE NULL!!, BUT THAN AGAIN THATS ABOUT AS MUCH PRECAUTION GUYS ARE WILLING TO TAKE. THAN YA LOOK INTO A MAJOR RACE FUEL COMPANY LIKE TORCO AND CHECK THERE PRODUCT OUT. 3:16 (yammie tony)
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This was research done with a actual chemical lab, not someone just saying what sparked knocked in a turbo car engine, base your buying on research done at a independant lab, if you read the results you can base your purchase on factual information. Also looks as if 104 has changed their recipe as of late 
.There is absolutely tons of information to be found on this subject. Make your own conclusions.
copy of post:
For this test we tracked down nine different makes and models of octane boosters, two fuel "additive," a straight race fuel and a drum of Toluene. Where there were several different "levels" of octane boosters in the one brand, we chose the strongest version.
The biggest claims the bottles have is the amount of "points" they claim to increase. This is ambiguous as a "point" can relate to either 1.0 RON (Research Octane Number) octane points, or 0.1RON octane points.
The list of entrants in our octane Olympics included:
STP Octane Booster
Wynns Octane 10+ Power Booster,
Amsoil Series 2000 Octane Boost,
Super 104+ Octane Booster,
VP C5 Fuel Additive,
ELF HTX 330 Racing Fuel Stabilizer,
Nulon Pro Strength Octane Booster,
PowerFuel Super Street Nitro Based,
PowerFuel Max Race Nitro Based,
NF Octane Booster Racing Formula,
NOS Octane Booster Racing Formula,
Toluene,
VP Motorsport 103 Unleaded Racing Fuel
THE TEST
To conduct these tests we contracted independent laboratory Intertek Testing Services, who would test our products on a knock engine.
We had to also find a base fuel to add our boosters to so we went to the closest public petrol station, a Shell on the outward-bound side of the Westgate Bridge in Melbourne.
Being a performance-based test, we chose premium unleaded fuel as this represents the most common high performance fuel (ie: if you start with regular unleaded, you’re wasting money!). We should add that "some" boosters would have improved the octane rating of regular unleaded proportionately more than our tests with PULP.
With a RON rating at a minimum of 95, we first established the exact octane of the PULP. The biggest surprise was our randomly select Shell resulted in a quite high 96-8 RON.
We precisely measured and mixed each additive to the PULP, according to each manufacturer’s recommendations and specs and poured each into the knock engine’s tank. The compression ratio was then slowly increased until it started to knock, gaining a threshold of detonation and subsequently a maximum RON rating.
Of less importance but still worth mentioning is the design of the bottles: since most people will be pouring it straight into a tank, the design of a bottle is important to prevent any spillage on paintwork causing damage.
So let’s look at the results!
THE RESULTS
BASELINE OCTANE 96.8
Octane points
It’s very easy to confuse octane ratings as there are a number of separate international standards. MON (Motor Octane Number) is the number derived from a fuel when it’s applied to a test engine run at 3000rpm rather than 600rpm and higher inlet temps and ignition advance. The Australian importer of 104+, Andrew Holdsworth, suggested MON is seen as a more real-world test.
Though none of the fuel companies promote the MON figure which is normally between 7 and 10 numbers less than RON (Research Octane Number).
Intertek’s Graeme Marks believes RON provides the general public with an idea of which additive works more effectively. And being the most commonly-used reference, we’ve used RON for all our tests.
11th
PowerFuel Super Street Nitro Based
946ml treats 35 litres RRP: $35
Right from the start, we were told PowerFuel’s additives weren’t necessarily octane boosters, but horsepower helpers. We kept this in mind when testing both the products, but of the two only the Super Street claimed it was specifically designed to increase the octane rating of PULP. With a 20-percent nitro mix, Super Street Nitro-Based still improved octane ever so slightly (0.2RON) but the real test for these two would come on the dyno runs.
OCTANE IMPROVEMENT: 97.0 (+0.2 RON)
10th
PowerFuel MaxRace Nitro Based
946ml treats 35 litres RRP: $45
Containing another 15 percent more nitromethane than the SuperStreet formula, MaxRace doesn’t claim to increase octane, but the verbal recommendation was the same, ie: its main characteristic is to boost horsepower, not octane. For a fair comparison of these two additives, you need to look at the power they produce. As for octane, it proved very similar toe the SuperStreet formula bumping up octane ever so slightly.
OCTANE IMPROVEMENT: 97.0 (+0.2 RON)
9th
STP Octane Booster
350ml treats 57 litres RRP: $10.95
One of the cheapest of the group, the STP was also one of the hardest to find. Auto stores either didn’t stock it, or had simply run out! Claiming to increase the octane 2-5 points, in a well-designed-for-pouring bottle, the STP – used in the ratio determined by the label - improved the octane marginally by just over half a point. A little disappointing unless you interpret STP’s claim actually meant 0.2-0.5 points. Then it’s a good result!
OCTANE IMPROVEMENT: 97.4 (+0.6 RON)
8th
Wynns Octane 10+ Power Booster
325ml treats 60 litres RRP: $10
The Wynns was the cheapest of the lot and claimed an increase between two and five points, again not actually listing what a "point" related to. Strangely though the 10+ could indicate 1RON and if this is the case going by our tests it almost lived up to its name. It didn’t quite live up to its claims however, increasing the octane rating by 0.8RON.
OCTANE IMPROVEMENT: 97.6 (+0.8 RON)
7th
Super 104+ Octane Boost
473ml treats 83 litres RRP: $25.95
The acknowledged winner of all previous testing in this country, Super 104+’s bottle stated we should expect an increase between four and seven point. With a new formula introduced about 12 months ago, identified by an "Eagle" logo on the back of the bottle, the Super 104+ seems to have lost its edge with a marginal gain of just less than 1.0RON.
OCTANE IMPROVEMENT: 97.5 (+0.9 RON)
6th
VP Racing C5
355ml treats 75 litres RRP: $19.95
VP has a strong reputation with fuels and its high octane formulas are very popular (VP?) with drag racers. VP Racing’s C5 Fuel Additive lacked any indication of contents nor claims, but the C5 additive still provided a reasonable increase of 1.3RON.
OCTANE IMPROVEMENT: 98.1 (+1.3 RON)
5th
NOS Octane Booster Racing Formula
355ml treats 60 litres RRP: $28
NOS, a relatively new octane booster, comes in "1/10th" scale bottles designed to emulate the actual nitrous bottles of its successful NOS systems. The Racing Formula is the strongest of three concentrates and containing Hydrotreated Aliphatics and Methylcyclopentadienyl Manganese Tricarbonyl (try saying that 10 times in a row), it contains a lead replacement which NOS claims increases the octane rating by as much as seven points. Obviously not recommended for street use, it also included with a handy pouring spout. In testing, it proved a good result improving the octane rating by almost 2RON.
OCTANE IMPROVEMENT: 98.6 (+1.8 RON) as much as 7 points
also looks as though the quality of the 'pulp" fuel will have a impact on it as like we all know, we are getting junk these days, pay more and recieve less and less quality as well!
__________________
.There is absolutely tons of information to be found on this subject. Make your own conclusions.copy of post:
For this test we tracked down nine different makes and models of octane boosters, two fuel "additive," a straight race fuel and a drum of Toluene. Where there were several different "levels" of octane boosters in the one brand, we chose the strongest version.
The biggest claims the bottles have is the amount of "points" they claim to increase. This is ambiguous as a "point" can relate to either 1.0 RON (Research Octane Number) octane points, or 0.1RON octane points.
The list of entrants in our octane Olympics included:
STP Octane Booster
Wynns Octane 10+ Power Booster,
Amsoil Series 2000 Octane Boost,
Super 104+ Octane Booster,
VP C5 Fuel Additive,
ELF HTX 330 Racing Fuel Stabilizer,
Nulon Pro Strength Octane Booster,
PowerFuel Super Street Nitro Based,
PowerFuel Max Race Nitro Based,
NF Octane Booster Racing Formula,
NOS Octane Booster Racing Formula,
Toluene,
VP Motorsport 103 Unleaded Racing Fuel
THE TEST
To conduct these tests we contracted independent laboratory Intertek Testing Services, who would test our products on a knock engine.
We had to also find a base fuel to add our boosters to so we went to the closest public petrol station, a Shell on the outward-bound side of the Westgate Bridge in Melbourne.
Being a performance-based test, we chose premium unleaded fuel as this represents the most common high performance fuel (ie: if you start with regular unleaded, you’re wasting money!). We should add that "some" boosters would have improved the octane rating of regular unleaded proportionately more than our tests with PULP.
With a RON rating at a minimum of 95, we first established the exact octane of the PULP. The biggest surprise was our randomly select Shell resulted in a quite high 96-8 RON.
We precisely measured and mixed each additive to the PULP, according to each manufacturer’s recommendations and specs and poured each into the knock engine’s tank. The compression ratio was then slowly increased until it started to knock, gaining a threshold of detonation and subsequently a maximum RON rating.
Of less importance but still worth mentioning is the design of the bottles: since most people will be pouring it straight into a tank, the design of a bottle is important to prevent any spillage on paintwork causing damage.
So let’s look at the results!
THE RESULTS
BASELINE OCTANE 96.8
Octane points
It’s very easy to confuse octane ratings as there are a number of separate international standards. MON (Motor Octane Number) is the number derived from a fuel when it’s applied to a test engine run at 3000rpm rather than 600rpm and higher inlet temps and ignition advance. The Australian importer of 104+, Andrew Holdsworth, suggested MON is seen as a more real-world test.
Though none of the fuel companies promote the MON figure which is normally between 7 and 10 numbers less than RON (Research Octane Number).
Intertek’s Graeme Marks believes RON provides the general public with an idea of which additive works more effectively. And being the most commonly-used reference, we’ve used RON for all our tests.
11th
PowerFuel Super Street Nitro Based
946ml treats 35 litres RRP: $35
Right from the start, we were told PowerFuel’s additives weren’t necessarily octane boosters, but horsepower helpers. We kept this in mind when testing both the products, but of the two only the Super Street claimed it was specifically designed to increase the octane rating of PULP. With a 20-percent nitro mix, Super Street Nitro-Based still improved octane ever so slightly (0.2RON) but the real test for these two would come on the dyno runs.
OCTANE IMPROVEMENT: 97.0 (+0.2 RON)
10th
PowerFuel MaxRace Nitro Based
946ml treats 35 litres RRP: $45
Containing another 15 percent more nitromethane than the SuperStreet formula, MaxRace doesn’t claim to increase octane, but the verbal recommendation was the same, ie: its main characteristic is to boost horsepower, not octane. For a fair comparison of these two additives, you need to look at the power they produce. As for octane, it proved very similar toe the SuperStreet formula bumping up octane ever so slightly.
OCTANE IMPROVEMENT: 97.0 (+0.2 RON)
9th
STP Octane Booster
350ml treats 57 litres RRP: $10.95
One of the cheapest of the group, the STP was also one of the hardest to find. Auto stores either didn’t stock it, or had simply run out! Claiming to increase the octane 2-5 points, in a well-designed-for-pouring bottle, the STP – used in the ratio determined by the label - improved the octane marginally by just over half a point. A little disappointing unless you interpret STP’s claim actually meant 0.2-0.5 points. Then it’s a good result!
OCTANE IMPROVEMENT: 97.4 (+0.6 RON)
8th
Wynns Octane 10+ Power Booster
325ml treats 60 litres RRP: $10
The Wynns was the cheapest of the lot and claimed an increase between two and five points, again not actually listing what a "point" related to. Strangely though the 10+ could indicate 1RON and if this is the case going by our tests it almost lived up to its name. It didn’t quite live up to its claims however, increasing the octane rating by 0.8RON.
OCTANE IMPROVEMENT: 97.6 (+0.8 RON)
7th
Super 104+ Octane Boost
473ml treats 83 litres RRP: $25.95
The acknowledged winner of all previous testing in this country, Super 104+’s bottle stated we should expect an increase between four and seven point. With a new formula introduced about 12 months ago, identified by an "Eagle" logo on the back of the bottle, the Super 104+ seems to have lost its edge with a marginal gain of just less than 1.0RON.
OCTANE IMPROVEMENT: 97.5 (+0.9 RON)
6th
VP Racing C5
355ml treats 75 litres RRP: $19.95
VP has a strong reputation with fuels and its high octane formulas are very popular (VP?) with drag racers. VP Racing’s C5 Fuel Additive lacked any indication of contents nor claims, but the C5 additive still provided a reasonable increase of 1.3RON.
OCTANE IMPROVEMENT: 98.1 (+1.3 RON)
5th
NOS Octane Booster Racing Formula
355ml treats 60 litres RRP: $28
NOS, a relatively new octane booster, comes in "1/10th" scale bottles designed to emulate the actual nitrous bottles of its successful NOS systems. The Racing Formula is the strongest of three concentrates and containing Hydrotreated Aliphatics and Methylcyclopentadienyl Manganese Tricarbonyl (try saying that 10 times in a row), it contains a lead replacement which NOS claims increases the octane rating by as much as seven points. Obviously not recommended for street use, it also included with a handy pouring spout. In testing, it proved a good result improving the octane rating by almost 2RON.
OCTANE IMPROVEMENT: 98.6 (+1.8 RON) as much as 7 points
also looks as though the quality of the 'pulp" fuel will have a impact on it as like we all know, we are getting junk these days, pay more and recieve less and less quality as well!
__________________
Last edited:
daman
New member
x2......YAMMIEGOD3:16 said:
800
New member
Here's the reason why you sometimes disable it. Do you know if your motor is really knocking or do you have a bad/sensitive sensor? Have you modified your motor? Do you guys understand how this system works or do you just assume its working and throw fuel and aditives at it till the light goes out?
The knock sensor on the engine is callibrated to the engine as it was originally produced. It reads/senses inertial forces/structural born noises inherent in an engine translates that into a frequency which is read by the CDI, and this is a very narrow band. So as soon as you change anything in this given engine, compression ratio, balance, bore size, or anything that will create a higher piston pressure, this sensor is no longer callibrated for this system.
Sometimes the system just fails.
I have a friend of mine that has 2 02's, they both were going into DCS. He calls me up asks what to do, of course I told him to jet it up one size and it should go away. He calls back the next day, one sled runs great the other keeps setting the light off, I told him try one more, he tells me he didn't have any that size so he put 155's across the board thats all he had and it's still doing it. I was like well somethings not right bring it over and we'll take it out on the lake. Sure enough it goes in DCS with 155's. So since both sleds were in his trailer I got the wild idea to switch knock sensors, you'll never guess but the problem followed the sensor, DUH. I warranteed the sensor and we put it back stock, yeah stock jetting, same gas, next morning when it was colder and low and behold it didn't go into DCS. Go figure.
The knock sensor on the engine is callibrated to the engine as it was originally produced. It reads/senses inertial forces/structural born noises inherent in an engine translates that into a frequency which is read by the CDI, and this is a very narrow band. So as soon as you change anything in this given engine, compression ratio, balance, bore size, or anything that will create a higher piston pressure, this sensor is no longer callibrated for this system.
Sometimes the system just fails.
I have a friend of mine that has 2 02's, they both were going into DCS. He calls me up asks what to do, of course I told him to jet it up one size and it should go away. He calls back the next day, one sled runs great the other keeps setting the light off, I told him try one more, he tells me he didn't have any that size so he put 155's across the board thats all he had and it's still doing it. I was like well somethings not right bring it over and we'll take it out on the lake. Sure enough it goes in DCS with 155's. So since both sleds were in his trailer I got the wild idea to switch knock sensors, you'll never guess but the problem followed the sensor, DUH. I warranteed the sensor and we put it back stock, yeah stock jetting, same gas, next morning when it was colder and low and behold it didn't go into DCS. Go figure.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
800, WHAT THE HELL YOU TALKING ABOUT. SO EVERY 2002 SRX THAT HAS A DCS SYSTEM LITE ISSUES ITS A BAD SENSOR ? GIVE ME A BREAK. THIS SYSTEM IS THE BEST SYSTEM YAMAHA EVER CAME OUT WITH. THEY WERE SMART ENOUGH TO KNOW THE STATE OF GASOLINE IN U.S. WAS GONNA GET WORSE. NOT BETTER !!! THATS OTHER REASON THEY WENT TO ALL BULLIT PROOF 4 STROKE ENGINES. SO YOU FOUND A BAD SENSOR, I CALL THAT A '' FLUKE ''. I BOUGHT MY 2002 SRX RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX. I USED STRAIT SUNOCO ULTRA PREM 94. I HELD THIS SLED WIDE OPEN FOR 1 MILE PROBLEY ON A SINGLE DIGIT NIGHT. LITE BLINKED RIGHT AT THE END OF STRIP. I THAN INCREASED OCTANE. THAT SIMPLE. LITE HAS NOT BLINKED IN FIVE YEARS. MATTER OF FACT, IF LITE DID NOT BLINK IN FIRST START UP, I WOULD NOT EVEN KNOW IF ITS WORKING. NOW SOMEBODY WITH YOUR KNOWLEDE TO BLAME THE SENSOR!!!!!!! OVER RECOMENDING BETTER FUEL GRADE. OK!!!!!!!!!!!! 3:16 (yammie tony)
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
you tell em 3:16. I don't have a hassle with my DCS anymore either.My 02 SRX had them symptons when I first bought it.Jetted up to 01 specs,run premium fuel and ran all winter without any issues.It was so simple.Make sure your gas is clean and water free also helps.I think it is a good system that helps to save your motor if something goes wrong or your fuel is all wacked out.Even if I keep it pinned for 1.5 miles..still no issues.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
BS or not...just read this and move on
HERE WE GO AGAIN!!!THE DCS IS A GREAT DEVICE THAT EVER WAS INVENTED.JUST READ THIS and move on guys.Do not disable the damn DCS.It is there for a reason.Solve the issues with it and it will work for you.
interesting read on the 2002 SRX
Found this article,thought I would post it for you 2002 SRX owners:
Top Performance: SRX
Yamaha states that the SRX is based on industry-leading engine technology like self-cleaning power valves, 3D ignition system, liquid-heated flatslide carbs and new for this year is an automatic detonation control system.
The SRX is for the go-quick guy. Based on our 11th annual Shoot-Out results the SRX can zip through a quarter mile in nearly 12 seconds flat. That was the best out-of-box experience we've seen at any Shoot-Out. So the performance is real.
Yamaha's Detonation Control System allows leaner production carb settings to reliably produce increased power. Since the mix is leaner, the sled gets improved fuel efficiency.
The DCS monitors combustion vibration for signs of possible detonation, which may come from poor fuel, water or contaminants in the fuel. When detonation problems are detected, the ignition timing adjusts until detonation ceases.
When the DCS reacts, you get up to three stages of action:
1. Upon initial detection, the ignition timing retards 3 degrees;
2. If detonation continues, the timing sets back 6 degrees and you see a quick flash from the console mounted warning light;
3. If engine-damaging levels prevail, the ignition reduces top revs to a "limp home" mode of 6400 revs and the indicator lamp continues to flash. When the detonation stops, the system automatically resets itself.
We found when test riding an SRX with regular grade fuel and jetting set 10 jets too lean for Midwestern riding conditions that the sled automatically retarded itself. When we held the throttle wide open in spite of the monitored warning, the sled backed down to 6400 revs, reset the ignition and then climbed back out until the jetting and low grade gas once again required a sensor reaction. We couldn't burn the engine down. And we were trying. This will most likely be a coming feature for all future sleds as it beats the Polaris dual mode switch in peace of mind for owners.
Key 2002 SRX features:
• Dual bulb halogen headlamps;
• 145 horsepower, 700cc Power Valve-equipped three-into-three triple;
• Dual-piston hydraulic brake with inner ventilated rotor for improved cooling and stopping power;
• ProAction chassis and suspension systems for flat cornering and high speed performance;
• CNC machined exhaust ports;
• Powder metal forged pistons;
• 300 watt ignition with 3-D timing;
• Plastic skis;
• End Goal: Maximum horsepower and quick accelerating machine for very competitive riders.
__________________
HERE WE GO AGAIN!!!THE DCS IS A GREAT DEVICE THAT EVER WAS INVENTED.JUST READ THIS and move on guys.Do not disable the damn DCS.It is there for a reason.Solve the issues with it and it will work for you.
Found this article,thought I would post it for you 2002 SRX owners:
Top Performance: SRX
Yamaha states that the SRX is based on industry-leading engine technology like self-cleaning power valves, 3D ignition system, liquid-heated flatslide carbs and new for this year is an automatic detonation control system.
The SRX is for the go-quick guy. Based on our 11th annual Shoot-Out results the SRX can zip through a quarter mile in nearly 12 seconds flat. That was the best out-of-box experience we've seen at any Shoot-Out. So the performance is real.
Yamaha's Detonation Control System allows leaner production carb settings to reliably produce increased power. Since the mix is leaner, the sled gets improved fuel efficiency.
The DCS monitors combustion vibration for signs of possible detonation, which may come from poor fuel, water or contaminants in the fuel. When detonation problems are detected, the ignition timing adjusts until detonation ceases.
When the DCS reacts, you get up to three stages of action:
1. Upon initial detection, the ignition timing retards 3 degrees;
2. If detonation continues, the timing sets back 6 degrees and you see a quick flash from the console mounted warning light;
3. If engine-damaging levels prevail, the ignition reduces top revs to a "limp home" mode of 6400 revs and the indicator lamp continues to flash. When the detonation stops, the system automatically resets itself.
We found when test riding an SRX with regular grade fuel and jetting set 10 jets too lean for Midwestern riding conditions that the sled automatically retarded itself. When we held the throttle wide open in spite of the monitored warning, the sled backed down to 6400 revs, reset the ignition and then climbed back out until the jetting and low grade gas once again required a sensor reaction. We couldn't burn the engine down. And we were trying. This will most likely be a coming feature for all future sleds as it beats the Polaris dual mode switch in peace of mind for owners.
Key 2002 SRX features:
• Dual bulb halogen headlamps;
• 145 horsepower, 700cc Power Valve-equipped three-into-three triple;
• Dual-piston hydraulic brake with inner ventilated rotor for improved cooling and stopping power;
• ProAction chassis and suspension systems for flat cornering and high speed performance;
• CNC machined exhaust ports;
• Powder metal forged pistons;
• 300 watt ignition with 3-D timing;
• Plastic skis;
• End Goal: Maximum horsepower and quick accelerating machine for very competitive riders.
__________________
800
New member
Tony, maybe you should go back and read my post again, I never said that all the sensors are bad, if you read it correctly, it says, "sometimes". Like any other electrical part it can fail. The point I was trying to make was no one, not any of you, take the time to test the system. One, no, I've replaced 5 of them. I just gave a factual example trying to make you guys "think", sorry.
IT'S NOT ALWAYS THE GAS, clear enough now.
I didn't 'blame" the sensor, I VERFIED it was bad, just good troubleshooting.
My other point was as soon as you mod anything on the motor the system is no longer "accurate", so using it as a tuning tool is no longer accurate either.
Bluemonster was nice enough to copy and paste the info from the 02' sales brochure, and it does state that Yamaha included the DCS system in the 02' sled to run the sled on the lean side for optimum performance. Well that's great, unfortunately if I go by what you guys tell everyone, their jetting specs were all wrong for for US fuel or their fuel recommendations were wrong, which is it. Keep in mind there's alot of stock 02's running around that are just fine.
Or is it maybe that all of your sleds are modified in some way and the system is recognizing it and telling you so?
And there are situations where you may want to disable the system, like if you're gonna race and you want to guarantee it doesn't go into DCS. Let me think, wasn't that the original topic of this thread?
Tommy, quit giving away all the secrets.......................
IT'S NOT ALWAYS THE GAS, clear enough now.
I didn't 'blame" the sensor, I VERFIED it was bad, just good troubleshooting.
My other point was as soon as you mod anything on the motor the system is no longer "accurate", so using it as a tuning tool is no longer accurate either.
Bluemonster was nice enough to copy and paste the info from the 02' sales brochure, and it does state that Yamaha included the DCS system in the 02' sled to run the sled on the lean side for optimum performance. Well that's great, unfortunately if I go by what you guys tell everyone, their jetting specs were all wrong for for US fuel or their fuel recommendations were wrong, which is it. Keep in mind there's alot of stock 02's running around that are just fine.
Or is it maybe that all of your sleds are modified in some way and the system is recognizing it and telling you so?
And there are situations where you may want to disable the system, like if you're gonna race and you want to guarantee it doesn't go into DCS. Let me think, wasn't that the original topic of this thread?
Tommy, quit giving away all the secrets.......................
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
800, I UNDERSTAND HOW MY DCS SYSTEM WORKS. IT WILL SAVE YA FROM POSTING PICTURES HERE OF YOUR PISTON TOPS EVERY FEBUARY!!! COULD YOU HAVE FOUND A BAD SENSOR, SHURE!!! BUT NOW YOU FOUND FIVE!!! NOW EVERYBODY THAT HAS A DCS ISSUE ON THEIR 02 SRX WILL RUN OUT AND GET A NEW SENSOR AT THEIR LOCAL YAMAHA DEALER. THEY BE ALL HAPPY THEY HAVE SOLVED THE PROBLEM BECAUSE YOU SUGGESTED IT UNTIL FIRST TIME THEY MAKE A WOT RUN DOWN A LAKE. THAN MAYBE THEY WILL REALIZE THAT INCRESEING OCTANE IS THE ANSWER. 3:16 (yammie tony)
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bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
oh GOD ..forgive us for we have sinned.Honor thy octane and thy DCS.How's it going there 3:16..I miss the snow already.Just got my SRX a rocking and the snow goes..go figure.Will be ready for the next season.Total clutch rebuilds a coming and will tempt that DCS.LOL.Just need to bury the needle.
daman
New member
A simple ohms test will verify your sensor status, i've never heard of that
many knock sensors going south..there pretty reliable.
many knock sensors going south..there pretty reliable.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
better then going north daman...lol..
I am bored without the snow.Went into the shed today and spent some time with the X.She is looking fine that blue monster of mine...lol.Guess I am going to have to summerize the sleds now.No chance of any snow blowing this way now.
I am bored without the snow.Went into the shed today and spent some time with the X.She is looking fine that blue monster of mine...lol.Guess I am going to have to summerize the sleds now.No chance of any snow blowing this way now.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
MONSTER, DUDE, DON,T PRAY TO HONOR THY OCTANE. ITS HONOR THY SENSOR!!!!!!!!!!! rotflmao. 3:16 (yammie tony)bluemonster1 said:
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
yes GOD..I am so sorry. You are right...it is the sensor thingie!!!!JUST PUT THE RIGHT FUEL IN AND ride for god's sake.Is that better??? Forgive me for I have sinned.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Lets all pray now!!!
Lets pray for the sensor.
Lets pray for the sensor.
daman
New member
you guy's behave... 