toydoc
Member
The DCS sensor (knock sensor) sould just be a Hz sensor. One knock / ping or bang should not set off the DCS. It takes repeated Hz cycles at the (deto knock) frequency to trigger DCS system. If the light does come on, you have a issue. It has deto or possible piston slap if it has high miles. I'd pay money to have it on every two stroke motor I have. You won't lose a race from a working DCS but you could save a motor.

super1c
Super Moderator
X2^^^^ At first i didnt understand the DCS either but know i wouldnt be without it!!
Here's a little update (I apologize if these topics have been talked about earlier in this thread, I haven't read the whole thing).
Things to remember:
1) Make sure you have cleaned the carbs and pvs. Also, make sure you have relatively new (low mileage) reeds, piston rings and pistons that actually are WITHIN spec. If you have like 6000 miles on the same pistons, measure them. Mine were all out of spec at 5000 miles.
2) Siphon out all of your old gas.
3) Go to the gas station you thrust the most and select pump.
4) Select only a pump that has a DEDICATED hose for premium, do NOT use pumps with one hose through which multiple grades flow through. You'll get a mix of the low and high grade simply because if the last person who filled up used the low grade, there's lots of low grade gas in the hoses all the way to the conjunction where the low and high grade hoses meet to form just one hose.
5) Wait for milder weather. (Same effect as jetting up).
Results:
I have a 02 srx with a hauck #5 clutch kit that I have tuned myself. The sled is jetted for -18c for my altitude. Today, right now it is -1c. I pulled the sled up to 170 km/h and the dcs did not blink even once. Also note that the rpm's I held were in the "hot" zone, 8000-8200 rpms. Check the ignition map for this sled and you will know what I'm talking about.
You may ask why I didn't go faster. That's because I'm breaking in the new pistons and rings.
Things to remember:
1) Make sure you have cleaned the carbs and pvs. Also, make sure you have relatively new (low mileage) reeds, piston rings and pistons that actually are WITHIN spec. If you have like 6000 miles on the same pistons, measure them. Mine were all out of spec at 5000 miles.
2) Siphon out all of your old gas.
3) Go to the gas station you thrust the most and select pump.
4) Select only a pump that has a DEDICATED hose for premium, do NOT use pumps with one hose through which multiple grades flow through. You'll get a mix of the low and high grade simply because if the last person who filled up used the low grade, there's lots of low grade gas in the hoses all the way to the conjunction where the low and high grade hoses meet to form just one hose.
5) Wait for milder weather. (Same effect as jetting up).
Results:
I have a 02 srx with a hauck #5 clutch kit that I have tuned myself. The sled is jetted for -18c for my altitude. Today, right now it is -1c. I pulled the sled up to 170 km/h and the dcs did not blink even once. Also note that the rpm's I held were in the "hot" zone, 8000-8200 rpms. Check the ignition map for this sled and you will know what I'm talking about.
You may ask why I didn't go faster. That's because I'm breaking in the new pistons and rings.

bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
you broke her in..now friggin PIN IT MAN!!!!!
bluemonster1 said:you broke her in..now friggin PIN IT MAN!!!!!
New pistons only have 180 km on them now..
otis700
Member
Norwegion, would you know the specification and tolerance for 2002 srx pistons? when I have my rings done, I will have that checked.
Mark
Mark
toydoc
Member
Mark, have them also check the cyl bore spec of all three. If the pistons have 8000 miles on them, I'd go with new ones even if they are within spec
Otis700, I have them but the update book is home and I am 2227 km from it.
If you have any more questions about dcs, please feel free to ask. I "know it all" because I have been through it.
If you have any more questions about dcs, please feel free to ask. I "know it all" because I have been through it.
If you look at the post dates...those posts took a long time to get to Norway + back!!!!
Must have hit a wave in cyber space!
Sorry Ha Ha could not resist!
Must have hit a wave in cyber space!
Sorry Ha Ha could not resist!

bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
you got that right Bob..The signal is bouncing all over the place and finally found Norway..man that sucks..lmao.....
*sigh*, now you woke up bluemonster. LOL 

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It is the fuel quality. The DCS is just doing its job. I am going to use a little mix in my 01 this winter to keep the edge off.
Fuel quality is one thing, BUT, you have to have your motor in good condition (no or as little as possible blowby), clean carbs, exhaust valves working and the exhaust system not leaking to keep the light off. Jetting for your altitude according to the book, it might be a little on the fat side, but it helped me. Same fuel as before.
wow u guys are really passonete about the dcs but back to the orignal post i have been there hookedonblue that light has been nothing but endless weekends of trying everything to stop it from retadring the timing at wot runs in every temp condition trail condition. with a modified motor meaning cans reeds or even clutching it was put on to protect a stock unmodded motor. the range of frequency it was designed to hear was a stock unmolested motor. in the end result it does work and i do love it .fuel is deffinately an issue.but as mrviper says jettin it fat will not solve the lite coming on. i took my dcs off and drilled a hole in my tunnel brace on the removable side of the chassie as i was told by my dealer who was running with tim bender at the time maybe i didnt get a good ground but it was flashin all the time then got frustrated and went and got a cdi box off an 01 i had out back and knew that i wouldnt hurt the motor because as we all know we need to do plug checks for proper jetting cause no setup or sled is the same .if u do find a way to mak it work by bypassing please post it .just my endless frusstration with the dcs
rx1jim
New member
Based on how quickly the engine in my 2000 SRX burned down last year, I wish it had a DCS system on it. 18 miles of crusing at 40- 45 mph and it was done. The repair parts cost me $700: crank rebuild, piston, rings, gaskets, 1 used cylinder head and 1 replated cylinder. I'd rather have the DCS system light come on earlier than not have it at all.
Fuel quality and quantity are the issues. Make sure your carbs are absolutely clean at the start of the season. If you let the sled sit used for several weeks, reclean the carbs to be safe! You can have the best fuel possible but if your dirty carbs are causing a lean condition, your engine will burn down.
Fuel quality and quantity are the issues. Make sure your carbs are absolutely clean at the start of the season. If you let the sled sit used for several weeks, reclean the carbs to be safe! You can have the best fuel possible but if your dirty carbs are causing a lean condition, your engine will burn down.
I have experienced that fresh 93 pump gas is barely suitable for a stock motor. I learned the hard way a few years ago by running old gas at wide open on a ported motor
The dcs system is much like women. Know the "game" and you get the most out of it, be ignorant and you will be forever alone.
rx1jim said:Based on how quickly the engine in my 2000 SRX burned down last year, I wish it had a DCS system on it. 18 miles of crusing at 40- 45 mph and it was done. The repair parts cost me $700: crank rebuild, piston, rings, gaskets, 1 used cylinder head and 1 replated cylinder. I'd rather have the DCS system light come on earlier than not have it at all.
Fuel quality and quantity are the issues. Make sure your carbs are absolutely clean at the start of the season. If you let the sled sit used for several weeks, reclean the carbs to be safe! You can have the best fuel possible but if your dirty carbs are causing a lean condition, your engine will burn down.
It's just not fuel alone that makes it blink, although it certainly alone can make it blink. Even with good fuel it can blink, if the sled has a broken exhaust valve or leaking exhaust.
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norwegian said:It's just not fuel alone that makes it blink, although it certainly alone can make it blink. Even with good fuel it can blink, if the sled has a broken exhaust valve or leaking exhaust.
Or a TPS with erratic output.

bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
got mine under control..really does not come on as it did years back..good fuel,stock jetting with 45 pilots..fitch fuel cells and she will run wot endlessly..no issues at all.Good to know and it works because when you start up the motor it will cycle thru..blinks on the dash.It might flash on maybe once or twice a season..so I know she is working.....good to know it is there..