Question about SRX and its competition...

Blue4U said:
The Best set up is to leave the motor alone and put all your efforts into suspension tuning. Depending on where you plan to run the sled, ex. Top lake speed or 660' drags or just trail performance you may want to try a gear change.Stay with a stock 47 Helix with the correct amount of twist for what you are doing. Stock (red) secondary spring, G-W-G primary with 8Bu-10 weights and 4.5g in the tip only. ALWAYS use the Yamaha 8DN-17641-00 belt.Keep your power valves clean and use synthetic oil only and premium fuel. Max. RPM should be 8500 at WOT. LEAVE THE STOCK MUFFLER ALONE. Check out You Tube and punch in Blue Crew Racing for proof how fast a stock motored SRX with a speed track and very trick lube system can run. :2strokes:
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I like what this guy had to say.

If in fact the factory recommended rpm is 8500 then that is where your tach should go to and stop. That really doesn’t mean it is shifting at optimum but its good to start as you need to feel the full shift curve.

If it bounces before 8500 (if that is the factory spec) that means it is slightly under the rpm shift curve and lugging the engine slightly taking away some forward speed.

Nobody can ever say…my clutch is perfect, as there is no such thing. In my race day I had it so nice just once, fortunately at the right race. The thing tacked just right – loaded the engine just nice –and a milly second just before my let off point I could feel it reach max performance for that day. Oh what a feeling.

You should start with his clutching then adjust slightly to fit your engine, weight, tune, conditions and location. Air is different all over North America

I do like the aftermarket helix “finish” like my buddy at advent-edge used to make. (They own a monster machine shop and the clutch stuff was just for fun – not sure what he is up to these days) However – for drag racing the stock finish is fine as it’s just a one way trip. Dual angels always confuse the feel to me – so straight is a good place to start as well.

More than ½ of the engine HP is lost just getting to the track – that speed track would be a very worthwhile expense.

The 02 SRX would be a nice one to own.
 
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wow guys thanks to everyone for all their inputs. just trying to write everything down and make sense of all this. im just starting to learn about clutching and all the factors involved. my father and i are eager to learn as much about this sled as we can. he previously owned a 79 srx and had it clutched out to a tee. i was only a wee lad then and its been a while since hes messed with clutching systems. he's wondering if much has changed. now we have this bruiser of a sled.... any of u guys run the digital monitoring(tachometer log) systems that give u feedback on exactly how high ur shifting etc etc. is that a worthwhile investment? replayable readout so ur not guessing half the time. if not , whats the best way to monitor the sleds performance when testing and tuning. what are the best bearings for the drive and suspension? is it a gravity feed lube system or is it a pump? and what lube is the best? that ones for u mr. world record. hahah SWEET VIDEO!! shoudl ski allignment be totally paralell or toed out just a touch? thats all for now i have a crap load of questions but i gotta draw the line somewhere. thanks again to everyone...
 
I've read Olav Aaen's clutch and carb tuning books 2 or 3 times, it really helps to understand how it all works. I learned more from reading that book about clutch and carb tuning than I ever did on the internet(not a bash, the book is just that good). A couple tricks that I learned is to feel the sheaves of the clutches to see how hot they are. Depending on if they are both hot, or only one is hot will give you an idea of what has to be done to get better performance. Another trick I've used is draw a line on the stationary sheave of the primary with a magic marker from the center to the outside. Go make a couple good long pulls and then stop and see how much of the magic marker line is wore off, this will tell you how much your clutch has shifted out. I'm sure there's plenty of other tips and tricks that Mr. Viper, Turk and the others have used. The oiling system is run by a pump but the fuel system is gravity feed(via an impulse line). Oil brand is a never ending debate. The only thing most agree on is to use a synthetic oil.

That's all I know(or think I know). Good luck in your search of SPEED!
 
beekmanSRX said:
wow guys thanks to everyone for all their inputs. just trying to write everything down and make sense of all this. im just starting to learn about clutching and all the factors involved. my father and i are eager to learn as much about this sled as we can. he previously owned a 79 srx and had it clutched out to a tee. i was only a wee lad then and its been a while since hes messed with clutching systems. he's wondering if much has changed. now we have this bruiser of a sled.... any of u guys run the digital monitoring(tachometer log) systems that give u feedback on exactly how high ur shifting etc etc. is that a worthwhile investment? replayable readout so ur not guessing half the time. if not , whats the best way to monitor the sleds performance when testing and tuning. what are the best bearings for the drive and suspension? is it a gravity feed lube system or is it a pump? and what lube is the best? that ones for u mr. world record. hahah SWEET VIDEO!! shoudl ski allignment be totally paralell or toed out just a touch? thats all for now i have a crap load of questions but i gotta draw the line somewhere. thanks again to everyone...
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Thanks for the comment on the videos. I don't have EGTs on my stock sled but keep a log of every change I make no matter how little.Learning proper track tension is worth big mph., but again depends on your application.We only compete in 2000' speed runs.My buddy has the SRX 700 Improved record and he uses the EGT guages
and play back. He has gone 140.2mph which is almost 5mph faster than the top speed record he set last year.That video was also on my you tube site. The lube system has an electric pump and we use Plumbers Anti-freeze as it is enviromentally friendly. Skis straight and semi sharp carbides. You can run only one if there is no cross winds. Make small changes only and keep lots of notes.Run the widest belt you can find. It helps to take a caliper with you to the store and measure alot of belts if they let you. LOL, One other trick(hope nobody is listening) Oxygenated Fuel. Especially on a 2002 with DCS. It will keep the little light from coming on. Have fun ;)!
 
Hey Bluy4U "One other trick(hope nobody is listening) Oxygenated Fuel. Especially on a 2002 with DCS. It will keep the little light from coming on".
What is Oxygenated Fuel? is it more octane? Where do you get it? Thanks
 
BenderSRX said:
Hey Bluy4U "One other trick(hope nobody is listening) Oxygenated Fuel. Especially on a 2002 with DCS. It will keep the little light from coming on".
What is Oxygenated Fuel? is it more octane? Where do you get it? Thanks
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Usually you do not really have a choice, whatevr the gas station gets, its what you get.

Around here, oxygenated gas is all that you can get in a several county area around Milwaukee. Go to Dodge county a few miles away,a nd you get non oxygenated fuel.

In the states, they have to tell you if its oxygenated or not, right on the pump. they sometimes like to call it e10, for 10% ethanol.
 
BenderSRX said:
Hey Bluy4U "One other trick(hope nobody is listening) Oxygenated Fuel. Especially on a 2002 with DCS. It will keep the little light from coming on".
What is Oxygenated Fuel? is it more octane? Where do you get it? Thanks
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You can get it from VP Racing Fuels. I was using CR4 and mixing it half and half with regular. Go to www.vpracingfuels.com
 
Blue4U - I don't see the CR4 - is it oxgenated with Ethanol or MTBE? - I have found that MTBE creates more power than the Ethanol oxgenated fuels - they use to have it in Streetblaze, and Motorsport 103, but now it looks like it is only available in the Motorsport 109 - I'm just finishing up a barrel of 103 (use it in my hot rods also) hope they don't eliminate it all together!!
 
yammiman said:
Blue4U - I don't see the CR4 - is it oxgenated with Ethanol or MTBE? - I have found that MTBE creates more power than the Ethanol oxgenated fuels - they use to have it in Streetblaze, and Motorsport 103, but now it looks like it is only available in the Motorsport 109 - I'm just finishing up a barrel of 103 (use it in my hot rods also) hope they don't eliminate it all together!!
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Yammiman., it looks like they've changed it now to U4.2 for next season.
 
I see it is oxygenated with MTBE but it is also leaded - ever test it against unleaded MTBE oxygenated fuel? - a buddy of mine and I spent a day at the track with our hot rods testing fuel blends - we got our best ET's with the unleaded oxygenated fuel vs. the leaded - might be different in a 2-stroke - I also see there are some club racing restrictions on certain fuels?
 
yammiman said:
I see it is oxygenated with MTBE but it is also leaded - ever test it against unleaded MTBE oxygenated fuel? - a buddy of mine and I spent a day at the track with our hot rods testing fuel blends - we got our best ET's with the unleaded oxygenated fuel vs. the leaded - might be different in a 2-stroke - I also see there are some club racing restrictions on certain fuels?
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My apology yammiman. Your right, I just went to the site again and it was STREET BLAZE 96 Octane.( unleaded) I need glasses :rofl:
 
My Primary has a small crack on it. Should I get another Sheeve or just get a bender clutch or Heel clicker? Snow show is Oct.31st so maybe I'll buy something then for it, any advise as what I should get?
 
you will beat the polaris

my friend has that same polaris and he does not stand a chance i beat him every time acrosss the lake
 
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