A~T
New member
Anyone know what i can do to install a 121'' track on a old phazer that used a shorter track? i think it was 118'' or 116''.
From what I gather you need to set the stock skid back farther to take up the track slack or install a new skid....also the pitch is defferent and I would think new drive cogs would be in order....
A~T
New member
121 phazer
What about rail extenders?
What about rail extenders?
that wouldnt be much of a rail extension...Give Maxx Perf a call, see if they recommend anything.
flying dutchman
Member
Don't know about the Phazer but we did the exact thing to a 81 SS440. I think it was a Polaris track, 121" with 3/4 lugs. All we did was move the suspension back farther. We also lowered the mounting points so the tunnel had more clearance to the ground. It worked great. These tracks are cheap or in our case we just had a used track lying in the shed.
did you have to change the drive cogs???
that is a good question. im gonna need to lnow that answer too. we are putting an enticer II skid without railextensions so its is 121" like the venture into the same sled. the thing is we are putting in the stock yoko track off of my 2001 sxr 500 on it cause the sxr is gettin ripsawed. we have to change the drivers any way (origonal 1980 ss440) so i am interestaed to know if we need to down size the drivers for clearance issues? oh and we are not studding it either. 
LoneViper
New member
They have done a bunch of older Phazers around here. 116" to 121" but mostly to 136" all I see are rail extensions and no susprnsion relocation.
I put an 1 1/8 track on my 91 Phazer with no problem. You might even make it to 1 1/4", taller than that you would have to change the drivers for sure.
A friend did a 1 1/2" and went to 7 tooth drivers. The thing was slow but would go anywhere.
I put an 1 1/8 track on my 91 Phazer with no problem. You might even make it to 1 1/4", taller than that you would have to change the drivers for sure.
A friend did a 1 1/2" and went to 7 tooth drivers. The thing was slow but would go anywhere.
the reason I ask about the drivers is the pitch...if its a shorter track from 121, will that change or did they keep the pitch the same and remove equal like from a136 to 121"
Srxspec
Your #1 performance shop!
You need to get yourself two new sprockets if the pitch changed from the 116-118-121 tracks (part # 8BF-W4753-00-00). Otherwise go find yourself a 95-96 Phazer II and measure from the center of the drive axle back to the center of the front mount. Then measure from the top of the tunnel down to the center of the mount. Lastly measure the distance between the front and rear mounts and then also the distance down from the top of the tunnel to the center of the rear mount. Hopefully this makes sense!
we did this w/ a 83 enticer 300. actually relocated an srv 121" rear skid under this cat. yes the drivers are different! new ones are available through WPS, reasonable. drivers need to be set on shaft per track application. compare windows from track to track for measurement. Down and back on mtg bolts work wonders!
flying dutchman
Member
We did not change any other parts when we modified our SS440. When you speak of the "pitch", I'm assuming you are talking about the lugs on the inside of the track that the drivers would be grabbing to turn the track. The track we used was off an older 89 and we found no difference. If things have changed with the newer tracks, the driver style should be the only other thing you need to change.
good to know guys as we about to start the rip and strip part of this operation soon (as soon as we get that f***ing doo out of the garage)
A~T
New member
Wow
Wow Guys
Thanks for all the info. That gives me a lot to think about now, and it's not even my frikin sled that i have to work on.
I was looking through the royal distributing catalog and according to the listings the '77-'78 gp 440 & gs 440 / '80 srv540 / '78-'80 srx 440 /'81-'83 ss440 / '76-77 stx 340/440 and the 84-89 phazer all use the same spec track: 15 x 2.52 x 46 (46 x 2.52 = 115.92) so if 2.52 has to do with the distance between drive holes or drive lugs then they should be the same as the current 2.52 121's. So it seems to be more of a matter of moving the skid back a bit to make it fit. For me anyway.
Wow Guys
Thanks for all the info. That gives me a lot to think about now, and it's not even my frikin sled that i have to work on.
I was looking through the royal distributing catalog and according to the listings the '77-'78 gp 440 & gs 440 / '80 srv540 / '78-'80 srx 440 /'81-'83 ss440 / '76-77 stx 340/440 and the 84-89 phazer all use the same spec track: 15 x 2.52 x 46 (46 x 2.52 = 115.92) so if 2.52 has to do with the distance between drive holes or drive lugs then they should be the same as the current 2.52 121's. So it seems to be more of a matter of moving the skid back a bit to make it fit. For me anyway.
great!!! that 2.52 was the pitch I was referencing....so you can use the same drivers, nice. Keep us posted on your progress.
thanks fer the info. will help simlify things greatly when we get to the 440 (it is the last one in line got 6 to do before we get to it and all are yammy this year, baby!)
A~T
New member
Hey Flying Dutch
When you moved the skid back and down, how did you get the final location of the arm bolts??(calculation or guesstimate) I heard before of some sort of calculation to get the bolt holes in a correct position on the tunnel for a longer track.
When you moved the skid back and down, how did you get the final location of the arm bolts??(calculation or guesstimate) I heard before of some sort of calculation to get the bolt holes in a correct position on the tunnel for a longer track.
flying dutchman
Member
Simple math. No hi-tech method, just common sense. If the new track is 5" longer, move the holes back 2-1/4" to 2-1/2". Get out a ruler and mark on the inside of the tunnel. Of course there is a limit, because it will screw up the whole geometry of the sled. Example, if you added a 136" track you would have to move the skid 10" back, which is impossible. Then you would have to use extensions.
When lowering the mounting holes, we did the same thing. Simply measured an inch or so and drill a new hole. Remember to do the same for "all" the mounting points.
Also you might want to move or make a new reinforced plate where the suspension will bolt through the tunnel. You are only moving a few inches so the new hole should still be in the original plate. Might be stupid comment, but I have seen people drill a hole through the aluminum tunnel, attach their skid, and wonder why it fell out after 1/2 hr of riding.
When lowering the mounting holes, we did the same thing. Simply measured an inch or so and drill a new hole. Remember to do the same for "all" the mounting points.
Also you might want to move or make a new reinforced plate where the suspension will bolt through the tunnel. You are only moving a few inches so the new hole should still be in the original plate. Might be stupid comment, but I have seen people drill a hole through the aluminum tunnel, attach their skid, and wonder why it fell out after 1/2 hr of riding.