ReaperSRX
Member
Holy smokes it been awhile! Any way i am starting think aoubt getting the old SRX ready for this winter and remembered an issue i was having mid to end of last year. At start up the sled did not idle up like it used too and i had to use more choke than normal to get it to idle and keep going to warm up. Also one more thing the before my last big ride i cleaned my PV and could not get the sled to idle under 1000rpm with the idle screw to open up the valve. Any help would be appriciated. Note: i have the carbs cleaned every fall and have never had anything adjusted or changed.
ReaperSRX
Member
I also forgot to mention that i also had a "hanging" high idle. I know with some digging i would need to adjust the air/fuel screws but just not sure what is causing the low idle at cold starts...........
shortstop20
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Sounds like the choke cable has stretched, that would make the sled need more choke to run when it's cold.
Not sure why the sled wouldn't idle under 1000 RPM with the idle screw loosened. Do you clean the pilot jets each year when you clean the carbs?
The hanging high idle could also be from a plugged pilot jet, but make sure the screws are adjusted like they should be.
Not sure why the sled wouldn't idle under 1000 RPM with the idle screw loosened. Do you clean the pilot jets each year when you clean the carbs?
The hanging high idle could also be from a plugged pilot jet, but make sure the screws are adjusted like they should be.
mod-it
Member
Hanging idle, won't idle, choke makes it better, all the signs of plugged pilot jet(s).
mod-it said:Hanging idle, won't idle, choke makes it better, all the signs of plugged pilot jet(s).
DING DING DING We have a winner. Maxdlx
ReaperSRX
Member
Thanks for the reply guys i will make sure all is cleaned out when i take the carbs off and double check the fuel screws. The other thing i forgot to mention was that the choke cable had become really stiff, it's really slow to go back to the off position when i use it.
You need to look at the choke plungers then to make sure they are going all the way closed. If you follow the cable to the carbs you will see the rod it pulls/pushes, and will see the plungers on the carbs. Maxdlx
ReaperSRX
Member
I know i tried to fix the problem with the choke near the end of season. I did not take the carbs off, just spray'd a little lube on the rod on the carbs and check'd the tension and lever but it didn't seem to help. It would very slowly go back to closed position and i would press the lever down to make sure it was fully closed.......anyway i will make sure we go over everything on the carbs when i have them off later this fall making sure they are cleaned, pilots and clean and choke pluger moves freely.............
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Use the choke to get under 1000 rpms, as it starts to stumble and die you should be able to hear the servo move. I believe then you can just shut it off and it will be in the right spot. Not exactly sure though, my viper is an ER with a battery so all I ever do is turn the key on.
shortstop20
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Yes, to get the servo motor to move you can use the choke to get the motor under 1000 RPM's and then shut the motor off.
shortstop20 said:Yes, to get the servo motor to move you can use the choke to get the motor under 1000 RPM's and then shut the motor off.
I thought that was how it worked. But halfway through typing it I realized I've never done it that way before...lol...and didn't want to give out any wrong advice on this great site