yammyhamer408
New member
i bought some used benders and there in good shape. the jets i got were 167 PTO and 162MEG and CENTER and it says to turn the fule air screw at 1 7/8 is that in or out and how to make sure i get the 1 7/8 turn. should i put the opticool head guaskett in or i was thinking of geting the bender heads what is the best bet. should i turn up the oil ingection for more lubrications. any other tips and set up spec would be great thanks.
NY AttakGT
VIP Member
I can comment on the screw....it usually means you turn the fuel/air screw all the way in...just so it stops..DO NOT TRY TO TIGHTEN IT!....Then turn it out 1 7/8's (just a tad under 2 full turns).
No need to adjust the oil pump...that I know of. It is usually set fat (rich) from the factory anyhow
--Steve (O.C.)
No need to adjust the oil pump...that I know of. It is usually set fat (rich) from the factory anyhow
--Steve (O.C.)
yammyhamer408
New member
thanks man im trying to proov my boss rong and his friend that a piped viper wont blow up. do to the fact that he hade one and blew it up 3 times and titps to keep it from melting down.
viper48
New member
Do the opticool and the rear heat exchanger. I did not adjust my fuel air screw per Benders instructions. I think alot of guys burn theirs down just from leaving it wide open for so long creating a lean condition, I have heard a few people burning them down after a wide open throttle run. IMO. I have not had a problem with mine."Knock on wood"
I have 2002 viper with bender tripples and have had some trouble. I took out a crank and the mag cylinder burned down. I would recomend a temp guage and I would turn up your oil pump to be safe. Make sure your using at least a quart per 100 miles. Definatly put the opticool gasket and rear heat exchanger on.
Also put in a SRX base gasket. It will allow more cooling as well.
Like said above. Put in the rear heat exchanger, opticool head gasket and put the SRX base gasket on.
Did your buddies do any of those things when they burned their sleds down? A viper can be made reliable with pipes. You just have to add a few extras to it besides jetting it properly.
Like said above. Put in the rear heat exchanger, opticool head gasket and put the SRX base gasket on.
Did your buddies do any of those things when they burned their sleds down? A viper can be made reliable with pipes. You just have to add a few extras to it besides jetting it properly.
i have heard that turning up the oil pump to much effectivly causes a lean condition.if you replace to much fuel with oil ,its changing the mix ratio.all that does is clog your power valves with unburnt sout and waste oil.the oil dosnt provide additional cooling,only lubrication, except in the case of methanol in the fuel where its been said to wash away the oil.im no expert but have studied this concept alot.the other variable is to much oil can foul plugs causing incomplete combustion.just my 2 cents 

yammyhamer408
New member
i have a rear heat exchanger but it is off a 97 vmax sx and it doesnt hold lots of colent i want one lin an srx and wich way do i turn my oil pump screw to get more oil and what did u set up your fule/air screw at VIPER48. thanks again for all the help evrylitl bit helps
absolutely correct too much oil actually causes a lean condition and gums everything up.hanker37 said:i have heard that turning up the oil pump to much effectivly causes a lean condition.if you replace to much fuel with oil ,its changing the mix ratio.all that does is clog your power valves with unburnt sout and waste oil.the oil dosnt provide additional cooling,only lubrication, except in the case of methanol in the fuel where its been said to wash away the oil.im no expert but have studied this concept alot.the other variable is to much oil can foul plugs causing incomplete combustion.just my 2 cents![]()
If you run a run synthetic oil, amsoil klotz, you can actually lean out the oil pump cable about 2MM
jabber800
New member
Don't mess with the oil settings, add the extra cooling with the head gasket and extra heat exchanger. Start by checking piston wash with rich jetting and lean the jetting down from there. Be carefull on long runs these pipes build alot of heat in them because of the internal stinger.
I started using amsoil in my SRX after the port work. the engine builder himself leaned out the oil pump because I switched to amsoil. My plug color looks like gold..
hey tomseal im guessing you dont get much snow in missippissi these days?haha

Hanker37.... those kind of comments will get your booted....HA HA...
Be careful!! Maybe you need to reread the site rules!!
Be careful!! Maybe you need to reread the site rules!!
i hope you realize tomseal i meant no disrespect in my question!im truly curious about snow in misissippi.thats all.does it snow at high elevations?
yammyhamer408
New member
i pulled the motor apart tonight and orderd a srx base gaskette and i cheked my pistons and cylenders and they look bran new it looks great for having 21000km on it and the sled has never bean rebilt i will post pics of te prject on the soon on working log
snocrosser
New member
Heres my litttle bit of input on your pipe situation, if you have access to a dyno-jet for a reasonable cost I found thats the best way to tune a viper with pipes to make it reliable, but not everyone has access to one, which is understandable. I did a full build on my 02 viper for an open-mod snocross sled. I went with Speedwerx pipes, case porting, welded crank, Speedwerx head, top-end extreme porting. There was no big bore on this motor, just ported jugs with new Wiseco pistons. What I'm getting at is I never touched the oil pump on this sled and and pounded the hell out of it with no engine failure. I wound run the rear exchanger with the head gasket and only do oil pump adjustments if you absolutely have to. Your jetting is going to be your most important adjustment along with clutch work, thats kinda where the dyno-jet comes in. I believe speedwerx recomended 157.5s for the pipes and I had to go to 160s to play it safe.That just shows how far off you might be to start. Just my two cents. Good luck with your build!
yammyhamer408
New member
thanks snocrosser i think i migh have some one that can hook me up with a dyno-jet for no cost. and i was wondering if the sx rear heat exchanger will work or should i switch to the SRX styler one. i have the sled jeted at 162 meg and center and 167.5 pto seems to be fine but im 17 this is the first triple i have played around with. i need this sled to be reliable and fast on the lake to smoke the apex's, srx's and of cros any other sled like the F7 i hate so much. thanks for all the inmut guys realy apreshiat it ans sorry for the spelling id like the best set up for a 2000 foot run. thanks keep it coming
snocrosser
New member
Don't worry about making errors being your first triple, you won't know unless you try new things and play with clutching and jetting. Just play it safe with your jetting, or it can get costly. As far as the rear heat exchanger I got mine right from Bender, last I checked they make one just for the vipers. Maxximum performance I think offers one too.
yammyhamer408
New member
ok sweet thanks man i will check in to that i have a vmax sx heat exchanger on it now. im aming to beat a non stock f7 that pulls 124 in the 2000 feet any clutch set up tips or gearing tips.