Vmax 600

redsoxrule

redsoxrule

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Mar 1, 2006
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Apologize if this was answered already....any tips on pulling the skid on a 94 vmax 600 ST??? The rear axle seems to be very tight trying to loosen it (move it forward), so I'm having trouble pulling the skid out...is there anything else I can loosen to assist in this, hoping I can fix the rear axle when its out...thanks in advance...
 
Did you loosen the nut on that rear shaft? If you did and it didn't help, you could back the nut out until it is flush with the threads and then hit it with a hammer to break it loose. Sorry if I am off track.. I'm not 100% sure what you have done so far.
 
I will give that a try...any ideas on why this would be so tight...it shouldn't rust so I can't figure out why....thanks.
 
most all the cross shafts in that skid will rust, or "galvanic corrode", two different metals in the same application. long story short, steel inside alloy. spray some pb blast, let it soak, vice grip the aluminum outside sleave and spin the axle bolt with an air wrench or electric impact.
 
Make sure you loosen the nut on the end of the shaft (not just the adjustment nuts)
The Bolt on the otherside has a set screw in it so don't expect to get that out.
I had to loosen the adjustments on my XT and hammer the shaft forward then cut off the spacers once it was out.

When hammering the shaft forward make sure the nuts are still on and at the end so you don't mess up the threads.
 
wierd thing is, I can use the adjusters to tighten the track, but not to loosen it... I managed to get it out to grease it up, but really don't want to pull the whole axle if I can avoid it...I'm hoping to get enough wd40 in it to loosen it. How far should the axle bolt come out?? The nut is tight, but will come off with some elbow grease.....thanks all for your help....
 
Use some pbblaster to try and losen it.
The Nut will come all the way off after your remove the cotterpin. The bolt side with the allen head has a pin in it that you can't remove until you get the spacers off.
It is a good idea to get them off of their and greese them up good so you can get them off when you need to get at the bearings.

Also while you have the skid out check the bearings and bushings as well as the cross shafts
 
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rookie here...i've got the service manual but cannot tell what's what on the axle, do I pull the idle wheel from the l side (nut side) to get at everything..where are the "spacers" at...I try to pull the skid and grease everything once a year, but neglected the rear axle last year cause I couldn't figure how to get it apart....didn't want to screw it up...
 
Starting at nut side, . Bearing = Wheel+Bearing

Nut, Bearing, Spacer, Rail, Washer, Adjuster, spacer, Rail, Bearing, spacer, Adjuster, Washer, Spacer, Bearing, Bolt Head.

May look like a lot but its fairly simple and hard to mess up the only hard thing to remember is that the washer go between the adjustment holes and the rail.
 
Thanks for your help....one other thing, on the sliders, the specs say 10mm is the wear limit...the slide is tapered at the back, the tapered portion is around 10, but if you measure to the actual bottom of the slider its well within the spec...do you measure to to the very bottom of the slider or the edge of the taper. Thanks in advance.
 
There is a line down the side of the slides i always go off of that line to see if they are good not sure on measurments. If they are close your better off spending the 14-20 bucks for a new set of slides as it will tear up your track clips if you wear through. Not to mention tear up the rails.
 
hopefully last question, is there some easy way to pull these idler/bearings without ruining either?? I have a puller, but I know last year I had to buy new bearings...is that just a given when you pull the wheel??
 
On the rear shaft? I got lucky on the DX (putting back together right now actually) and they slid of the rear shaft. Every other bearing on the otherhand was rusted on the shaft and had to be pulled off and replaced most where shot anyway.(actually had one explode when pulling off)

To be more direct the wheels on the rear axle will slide off usually if you haven't replaced these bearing yet and they same iffy at all i would replace them 7.95 ea i believe or cheaper. if they don't try and spray some pb blaster around the axel bearing surface and let it soak it make not take much to break them lose.
 
I need to update that i sold them, as far as loudness they aren't obnouxios but you can hear them. They do a lot for power but require a lot of tuning which the previous owner of the DX did not do hence the reason i sold them. If you look on ebay you can grab a set for 150-500 usualy.
 
the spacers are siezed to the axle tube, looks like I got my work cut out..the bearing was seized on the axle tube as well...
 
got if off finally...had to use a pipe wrench to move the spacer, and was able to take the bolt off the right side, it appears the allen head nut is toast, but I'm thinking some locktight will work fine...once the one spacer came off, the whole axle just came apart...thanks for your help.
 
Ya i never fixed the set screw pin or whatever it is on my XT when i put it back together just used locktite and it hasn't moved.

Awsome that you where able to get those spacers off without much force i got lucky on the DX when i tore it apart as it just slid off :) the XT was seized all the way down it was kinda impressive actually. I greased them both up Really good before i put them back together.
 
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