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bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
different!!!! for sure.Should do the trick.I reinforced all 4 w-arms that I have using 3/4" by 1/8" flat steel instead and used corner brackets in the corners.This is all better then not doing it.
ExpertXViper
New member
I can tell these guessets really werent planned out to well reason that being said.
The plates you have covering the whole W-arm arent not going to work. When the skid is fully compressed(bottom out) the front ski rail tips actually go through the W-arm right where the front W-arm mounting point is. Second was your plan to eliminate the rubber bottoming bumpers???? Cause the set up you have going now in now way are you gunna be able to install the stock bumpers and those are needed to prevent excessive bottoming/damage to W-arm
Sorry but from what Im seeing this gusseted W-arm will cause you more problems then prevent them.
The plates you have covering the whole W-arm arent not going to work. When the skid is fully compressed(bottom out) the front ski rail tips actually go through the W-arm right where the front W-arm mounting point is. Second was your plan to eliminate the rubber bottoming bumpers???? Cause the set up you have going now in now way are you gunna be able to install the stock bumpers and those are needed to prevent excessive bottoming/damage to W-arm
Sorry but from what Im seeing this gusseted W-arm will cause you more problems then prevent them.
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PhatboyC
New member
Couldn't he make holes in the plates to allow the rails to go through?
hummm it had no bumbers on it ,,,,anyone got any pics of how theres is done so i can see what i did wrong ? guess i got more work to do ....
NYsledneck
New member
When i bought my srx the previous owner had welded re-enforcements in the w-arm. Well he too did not think of the tips of the rails going through the w-arm and it just caused more problems than before. You have to be careful on where you put any extra pcs and that it won`t effect how your suspension works.
venture700
New member
the w arm was way to weak for my riding style. so i just got a rx-1 mountain H-ARM for my venture. it bolted on perfect but i just had to move the front belts. and now i can have as many wheels on as i want without that damn W-arm hitting them.
yours was plated like this what did you do punch a hole for tips to go through ? any other problems i am gonna have with this ?NYsledneck said:When i bought my srx the previous owner had welded re-enforcements in the w-arm. Well he too did not think of the tips of the rails going through the w-arm and it just caused more problems than before. You have to be careful on where you put any extra pcs and that it won`t effect how your suspension works.
NYsledneck
New member
Mine was not plated just had bars welded in it. I junked it and bought a new one and strengthened it up. Solved the problem for one year...lol..now it`s got an edge suspension in it so i don`t have to worry about breaking the skid.
marinetech50
New member
the srx was built for high speed groomed trails,lakes and just a awsome drag sled,not snowcross. Beefing up the w-arm just puts the weak- link some place else.Address the problem,stop bottoming out and have some custom progressive valve shocks built for your sled
Ok So If I Take Out Some Of The Plating Like In The Picture Below ...remove Everythin In The Red I Should Be Ok ? Also Anyone See Anything Wrong With What Is In Yellow ? Can A W Arm From A 136 Or The Newer H Arms Be Used Instead Of W Arm ? If So Is It Bolt In Or Will I Have To Drill New Mounting Holes?
Attachments
are the v cuts were the rail tips come through ?
yamaha721sxv
New member
The rails come through about a inch below the top bar.... All you would have to do is plasma cut the extra metal out there and you would be fine.. Or, i take it that your skids out.. just bolt it up with out the shock etc. in and push all the way down and you'll see where the rails etc. come inYA*AM*A*HEAD said:are the v cuts were the rail tips come through ?
When I got my sled the w-arm had an ugly crude plate welded on it so I trimmed it down to open up window more and added 1/8th x 1" plate down the inside of the outer tube and then also across the arms below where rail tips go thru. But yes it is correct the windows must be open.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/jendelmann/IMAG0115.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/jendelmann/IMAG0116.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/jendelmann/IMAG0115.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/jendelmann/IMAG0116.jpg
ExpertXViper said:I can tell these guessets really werent planned out to well reason that being said.
The plates you have covering the whole W-arm arent not going to work. When the skid is fully compressed(bottom out) the front ski rail tips actually go through the W-arm right where the front W-arm mounting point is. Second was your plan to eliminate the rubber bottoming bumpers???? Cause the set up you have going now in now way are you gunna be able to install the stock bumpers and those are needed to prevent excessive bottoming/damage to W-arm
Sorry but from what Im seeing this gusseted W-arm will cause you more problems then prevent them.
I seem to remember a thread about the W arm bumpers contributing to W arm cracking and some guys removing them. IIRC the skid bottoms out on the bumper mounted on top of the rail that contacts the center shaft when bottoming.
I think snowdad4 and super1c where part of the conversation.
For the record I still have them in my Viperized SRX... with reinforced W arm.