viper Clutching

VJ_Mazalin

VJ_Mazalin

New member
Joined
Nov 17, 2007
Messages
27
Age
41
Location
Airdrie Alberta Canada
Iam looking to get this thing to pull hard at about 6-8000ft i don't run pipes just a can and have a holtzman auto. altitude ajustment system on the sled.
it screams at 9100 at 7500- 8000 now and iam looking to get it to 8700 RPM and engage at 4900RPM.
Anyone one have any ideas as far as wieghts and springs?

Is there a kit i could just buy with all the right stuff? and if i go to a set of pipes (SLP's) will i have to change everything again?
 
you will need to change everything if you put SLP pipes on. jetting/clutching. I have a friend out west that SLP'd his viper and ran around 3000-7000 feet. It ran preety darn good. Your mileage is going to go down the toilet when you pipe it though so bring lots of gas with you.
 
think it would be best just to clutch it and run the most i can get out of it without pipes? its ainly mountain riding i do with it.
 
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iam running 44 Grams in each weight right now with a YSY spring for a primary, and its pulling at 4000 maybe a little more i want it 4600+. Green for a Secondary. wrapped 1 and 6. what do i need to do to get it to my goal? would shims work?
 
iam running 44 Grams in each weight right now with a YSY spring for a primary, and its pulling at 4000 maybe a little more i want it 4600+. Green for a Secondary. wrapped 1 and 6. what do i need to do to get it to my goal? would shims work?
 
You need to drop about 500 rpms. Like modsrx said, you need to add rivets to the outer hole of your arms. Someone else may be able to get you closer than my guess, but I would start out with around 2.5g rivets in each arm and then test to see where your at. Why would you want your rpm's around 8800-9000 when your peak hp is made at 8600? 8800-9000 is the exact rpm's that SLP pipes want, with 8900 being peak, have you been going off that? You're simply losing hp by overturning your rpm's as much as you are. As for getting your engaugement to 4900, that also doesn't seem like a good idea in a mountain application. All your going to end up doing is having your track blow a trench when you take off and get you stuck. I would keep it at 3900 like it is suppose to be. Higher engaugement is more for a drag racing set-up.

I'm running SLP pipes, and I love them. You definitely use more gas, I'm getting about 6mpg with the boondocking and climbing that I do. Pipes will make you run with 800's as long as they have close to your same track length.
 
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iam running 8ND10 arms, and iam not sure what they equal in weight but total on each arm is 44 Grams. theres nothing in the top hole just the inner one.

Can u really use a nut and bolt for this..? and a little bit of thread lock?
 
I realized this morning that I accidently said 8ek, which is the short tracks. The mountains came with 8dn-10's. Been talking with my uncle about changing around his short track, must be why the 8ek's were on my mind. I'll edit my previous post so that no one is confused. The 8dn-10's are 39.76 grams, which subtracted from 44 is 4.24 gram rivets. Yamaha doesn't make this size so I'll bet they are the 4.5 gram rivets, which I think is what came in them stock.

Anyway, I would add weight to the outer holes. If your turning around 9100 now, I would throw some 4.5 gram rivets in the outer holes and test from there. Maybe someone else has a better starting point, but with that many rpm's to drop, that's where I would start.
Some people have used bolt and nut for this, you have to weight them to get the desired weight. You also have to pay attention to the bolt and nut not hanging up on anything, I think you have to do a little bit of grinding. Try a search in this forum, the info is out there.
 
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