proper breakin of new rings

Rambunctious

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Joined
Apr 19, 2004
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371
Location
Holland, Michigan
new rings installed

I wire tied the oil pump to full and added a little oil to the gas tank too

how should i properly "seat" the new rings
and for how long ( 10 minute idle at x rpm, or 150 miles a WOT...... etc)

thanks

Ramb
 
My .02

Be very careful with too much oil, you'll create a lean condition & seize that new engine...just mix a little with a 1/2 tank of fresh fuel, leave the pump alone...pull plugs often & keep an eye on your heat, steady pulls up till full throttle, shut down let it cool off completely & start all over again, keep an eye on your plug color & piston wash...two cycles should be good, then drive it like you stole it...Do a search, run into any problems just ask...cheers
 
go read mototune.com .

hard accelleration followed by coasting followed by hard accelleration. accelleration causes rings to jam against the cylinders and use the hone marks to cut them to the shape of the cylinder.
 
thanks guys

Betehviper,
that process sounds a lot like ( take the new engine on the circle track and race it ;)! I like it


I got it started and ran for about 2 minutes with heavy oil, no belt, no load, some full rpm revs and then I shut her down.
I will pull the cable tie on the oiler now and wait for snow for some full pulls


Ramb
 
Opinions vary

Definately read the mototune articles. I believe you'd be better off by doing the hard pulls under load (like on the frosty grass on a cool morning) than by doing it with the belt off. On the oil thing it can be argued that non-synthetic will help the rings wear in better but is can also be argued that the lack of lubrication can produce excess heat. (enter NOSBOY) I definately disagree with the extra oil......just run your regular mix...there is plenty of lube with that mixture in my opinion. I believe in regular oil, good gas, HARD relatively short pulls followed by COMPLETE cool down in between. Don't overheat it.


Madmatt
 
Use mineral oil. Synthetic oil will take a hell of alot of miles to seat the rings, if they even seat properly at all. Run it like betheviper suggested, and don't use extra oil.

Brake it in hard, and it will run hard. :)
 
Yamalube is semisyn, and still really good in my opinion (not looking for an oil argument here!!) Personally I would probably just run whatever you use all the time, but thats me. I don't really buy into the whole mineral for break in thing, just run it hard varying RPM a lot for a few heat cycles.
 
It's almost all opinion

I see Valin agrees with me on everything but the synthetic oil thing. My experience this summer with my son's motocross bike (KX85)is that whether it is broken in with synthetic or mineral oil makes absolutely no difference (visually) with quality of ring seal on tear down. I put new piston and rings in his race bike every month (4-5 races or 8-10 moto's) and I check this stuff out pretty carefully. That makes seven times this summer.....the first two were broken in with mineral oil and the last five were run with Amsoil Dominator at 40-1 the entire time......awesome ring seal in both cases. :dunno:

Madmatt
 
Madmatt said:
I see Valin agrees with me on everything but the synthetic oil thing. My experience this summer with my son's motocross bike (KX85)is that whether it is broken in with synthetic or mineral oil makes absolutely no difference (visually) with quality of ring seal on tear down. I put new piston and rings in his race bike every month (4-5 races or 8-10 moto's) and I check this stuff out pretty carefully. That makes seven times this summer.....the first two were broken in with mineral oil and the last five were run with Amsoil Dominator at 40-1 the entire time......awesome ring seal in both cases. :dunno:

Madmatt
Did you do a leak-down test on the engine after both synthetic break-in as well as the Dinosaur oil break-in?
 
Equalizer said:
Did you do a leak-down test on the engine after both synthetic break-in as well as the Dinosaur oil break-in?

A leak down test wouldnt be necessary, looking below the piston ringland area will show if your rings sealed properly or not. If they didnt seal properly you would show signs of blow-by.
 
All your gonna find is opinions on this subject, everyone has thier own method they prefer. I will tell you this much the rings have a moly coating to help them seal to the cylinder, so they will pretty much adhere/seal to the cylinder with no extra effort by yourself. When you buy a sled new, they dont wire open the oilpump, etc, thats all not really needed.

I put together alot of these engines every year, have always just used plain ol yamalube to coat the rings and install, nothing fancy. Start up the engines and warm them up with varying throttle, let it completely cool down and then run it as usual. Never had had a issue yet, just what works for me :dunno: .
 
An old race engine builder told me once that the most important part about break-in is streching the rods to the point they'll be stretched during they're intented purpose. Think about the stories of buying a mint hot rod from the little old lady that only drove it to church. You get ahold of it and after mulitple WOTs, the rings break because they hit against the worn ring groove. An extreme example that isn't directly associated with break-in, but it was the one he gave me. Now this doesn't apply to hardned cylinders as much as cast iron for obvious reasons but I've always run engines for break-in as hard as I would after break-in but lesson the duration of pinning the loud lever.
 
ExpertXViper said:
A leak down test wouldnt be necessary, looking below the piston ringland area will show if your rings sealed properly or not. If they didnt seal properly you would show signs of blow-by.
This is true. I was just hoping to find some comparable results based on a leak-down test in the off chance of missed signs of blow-by. I too am going to re-ring my 98' SRX and was debating wether I should switch to non-synthetic for awhile.
 
I've always used conventional for BI then syn,but i agree it doesn't really
matter either or would work,people over think things sometimes and i think this is one of those times, breaking period is what's important if ya ask me.

use what ever ya got on the shelf and run 'er!!!!!
 
daman said:
I've always used conventional for BI then syn,but i agree it doesn't really
matter either or would work,people over think things sometimes and i think this is one of those times, breaking period is what's important if ya ask me.

use what ever ya got on the shelf and run 'er!!!!!

LOL, ya I've read through a lot of the old debates on here and pretty much came to the same conclusion. Thanks daman ;)!
 
Madmatt said:
My experience this summer with my son's motocross bike (KX85)is that whether it is broken in with synthetic or mineral oil makes absolutely no difference (visually) with quality of ring seal on tear down. I put new piston and rings in his race bike every month (4-5 races or 8-10 moto's) and I check this stuff out pretty carefully. That makes seven times this summer.....the first two were broken in with mineral oil and the last five were run with Amsoil Dominator at 40-1 the entire time......awesome ring seal in both cases. :dunno:

Madmatt

i broke in my modded banshee w/amsoil dominator and have had no issues what so ever w/blow by. tore down for some porting and no blow by signs on the pistons. i think its BS about rings not seating w/synthetic oil during break in. whatever oil you are going to use regularly, use that stuff during breakin and forget about it. if you want to add a little oil to the gas tank for breakin, thats fine too. my .02 ;)!
 
I used interceptor to break mine in last season, runs good and hard, pushed some good numbers out of it so I'm happy.... I dont really believe the whole dont use synthetic to break in arguement.... On 2 strokes that is
 
Skidooslayer687 said:
I used interceptor to break mine in last season, runs good and hard, pushed some good numbers out of it so I'm happy.... I dont really believe the whole dont use synthetic to break in arguement.... On 2 strokes that is


And why not a 4 stroke?
 


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