87 exciter: hard steering

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kaw550

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Feb 3, 2004
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I have an 87 exciter that has been bear to steer sice I got it (used).
Any ideas on how to make it easier to steer? I have no problems with my 91 exciter.

I went from wear bars to carbides and noticed no difference. I believe the suspension is at the stoock setting.

Last season I replaced most of the bushing on the front suspension/steering. There is still a little play, I am thinking of replacing the tie rod ends this season.

I also put ski skins on on it.
 
MrSled had is, most likely the limiter straps. Another thing you can do, and you mentioned the tie rod ends, is to make sure they are freely moving. Another thing to check is if the front of the wear bars wear quicker than the rear. This can create a harder steering effort than if the skis sit even on a level surface. Good luck!
 
set to stock

I dont have the sled here so I cannot tell you where the straps are set. I did check last year and according to my manual they are in the stock position.

I plan on replacing a few of the tie rod ends this year. I figure if the steering is tighter I wouldn't to turn the bars as much. THe sled only has about 2,600 miles so the wear is not excessive.
Can I replace the inner tie rods with the engine in????
Does anyone sell them cheap?
Could the TSS (or is it TTS) suspension cause it to bind?

In the garage on dolly's it doesn't seem bad but after an hour of riding you can tell.
 
i did'nt see anybody mention swaybars, so i'll toss this in. i used to have an '88 exciter that was a handfull until i put a bigger swaybar on it. helped a lot! also make sure the ski's are aligned properly. if they are toed in, it will fight you every inch of the way!!
 
Swaybar

I dont think I have seen bigger swaybars for that sled. Are this still available? If so, where?


The ski's may actually be toed in a little.

I thought that helped steering!
The sled does have 2600 miles so there is a little play in every linkage including the suspension. I added the shim kit, this year I may do some tie rods.

Not one component is bad but I guess it all adds up,
 
a little toe in is good. not a lot. usual spec is about 1/8"-1/4" toed in. this is so when you are moving the skis are exactly parrallel (straight) when the slack even in new parts is taken up while driving the sled. :beer:
 
it depends on how pressure is applied too. toed out too much causes drag and slows you down or if powder riding causes to diginharder. cars use same rules for alignment unless it is front wheel drive. then it gets toed out because the torque on the wheel to pull the car causes them to run straight. simple principals of alignment. :rocks:
 
i will respectfully have to disagree with Maim about the toe in. i tried it and the sled searched for every rut in the trail. thought somebody else was driving my machine by remote control!! most shop manuals reccomend a little toe out. something to do with the ackerman theory i think. (the inside wheel or ski turning a different radius than the outside wheel or ski.)

kaw550, as i recall the swaybars came from bender racing or maybe maximum performance but its been so long i'm not sure. they may be out of production. you should be able to call and find out. i think they were fairly simple, you may be able to build your own out a piece of chrome moly rod. the shim kit was a good idea. helps fill all the gaps in the ole TSS suspension.

if you want make to make a major improvement switch to plastic skiis. i used a set off of a 99 mtnmax, built my own mount(used plastic bumpers from a simmons tss ski) and realized what i'd been missing. those old steel skiis were a real drag. literally!! good luck
 
tose numbers where from pre independant sleds. havent had to adj my new ones yet cause dealer set them up bang on and i havent had to touch them yet. :beer:
 
Grease?

This might just be a shot in the dark, but whens the last time you greased the sled?
Im not all that familar with older Yamaha sleds, but I did have a '90 Phazer II.
Mine had grease fittings around the "strut collar" and it also had another on the steering post. If these havent been greased lately, could it be possible that it would take more effort to turn the skis.
I think the others are right though, its most likely related to ski pressure.
Hebi
 
I guess is it "hard" effort wise or is it hard like you turn the skis and it goes straight? The skis should be toed out 1/4" from your rear to your front measurement. This will keep it from darting.

Go back to your 550, it was more fun I had 13 of them.
 
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