cold air kit for srx

Bullit01

Bullit01

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Mar 25, 2007
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Has anyone tried the cold air kit for the srx that Bender makes or mayed there own. Im just wondering because I was thinking of doing it to my sled. Bender is claiming 5 to 6 hp.
 
i had one on my '99 700 srx. it was on there when i bought it. i couldn't tell you the difference of one w/o cold air kit, versus one w/it. i do know there is more engine/carb noise that is heard w/cold air kit installed. plus you have to hack up the hood.
 
Verdict that i have read is NO HP gain at all. Stock airbox has plenty of flow and takes into account the ram air effect once the sled is moving. At any moving speed and cool temps, when you factor in the windchill the motor still gets lots of free flowing cold air from the vents.
 
The Bender Cold air is made to work as a kit, their performace package for the SRX consists of, V-force reeds, jetting, Can (muffler), clutching, cold air intake and i do believe the transfer rods. I believe this kit is around 10 to 12 hp increase. I had it on my 99 srx and i was very happy with the performace compared to a stock SRX. You can check their website i think it's still there.
 
I asked about just puttin an air box on my sled a while back and got a rather "negitive" response about just installing the box alone. As above mentioned, I was told it was ment to work as a kit. With just putting the box on without jetting and adjusting accordingly, it would just be a matter of time before the motor would go boom. I'm by no means an expert, but heres what I know. The air box allows for more air to get into the cylinder and if you dont adjust your fuel mix accordingly to help keep it cool only bad things will happen from there. If you plan to install the kit, I would be curious to hear about any gains you might get.

If you want to read my old thread, it satrted out as a question about a gutting a stock air box - titled "Gutted Airbox???"
 
If you check it out it actually blows air out the cold air kit intake instead of sucking it in.
 
in typical performance automotive applications, each degree F of air temp drop is worth 1 hp. So, in a Mustang/Camaro/Vette/etc, a drop 30 degree F is 30 hp. These cars make 3 times the hp of the typical sled, so we can't assume the same 1 to 1 formula, but we can assume that it works. so, getting cold air to the airbox is the goal we all should be working toward. the bender cold air kit seals off the airbox to the hood on the underside, so it should pull air in. if it is letting air out, then the seal is not working properly. i have always seen great gains by improving the flow of cold air.
 
My question to this mod is where are you pulling this "colder" air from, when its already 30deg outside and your clipping along at 60+mph. Ive had one of these kits in my possesion, note had because the more I looked at it the more it didnt make sense to me cause your not sealing the WHOLE box away from the heat of the engine its still open for engine heat to be sucked into the airbox. If you take a step back and look at the SRX hood design it has 2 decent sized holes in the hood that direct cold air right into the area of where the airbox lays. All in all WASTE OF MONEY!!!!!
 
cacsrx1 said:
Mine works great when powder is over the hood, no bog.
Click to expand...

Buy a Waterproof Outwear Racing Airbox cover you wont have to worry about ice or snow and intalls alot faster, cost $25 vs. the $50+ for a cold air kit that doesnt gain HP.


I know :postwhore :postwhore :postwhore
 
To answer your question ExpertXViper, the cold air is being pulled in from the vent that has to be cut in your cowl in front of your gauges. With the foam supplied in the kit it dose a good job of keeping the warm air out of the air box (not perfect). The top of the air box sits very close to the top of the cowl, the front of the air box is sealed tight to the cowl. If you look at the air scoops, one directs cold air to the brake and the other is blocked off by a peice of plastic, yes you can remove the peice of plastic but the air is directed to the secondary clutch area. Some of this cold air dose get to the top of the air box but not as much as one would like.

I agree with you that it is a waste of money, I get the same results with a gutted air box with a couple of extra slots cut into the top of the airbox and it didn't cost me a penny. There must be gains from getting cold air to the airbox or D&D wouldn't be selling Bullseye's, Ulmer Racing wouldn't be selling mod airbox's and so on.

By adding just one thing, like the airbox mod alone you are not going to add alot of performance, one would get more performance from dialing in the clutching. IMO
 
Either way you go you have to jet accordingly to correct for the denser "cold" air or, in the case of a gutted box the presumed increased air flow rite? Or does it not make that significant of a difference? If so, both ways are looking at a lean mix and thats never a good thing for a any peroid of time
 
ExpertXViper said:
Buy a Waterproof Outwear Racing Airbox cover you wont have to worry about ice or snow and intalls alot faster, cost $25 vs. the $50+ for a cold air kit that doesnt gain HP.


I know :postwhore :postwhore :postwhore
Click to expand...

When the vents in the hood are packed with snow how is the motor supposed to breathe? The cold air kit may be a waste of money for the trail rider, but when the snow is over the hood it does help.
 
Deviant, it matters big time. Any time air movement through the engine is altered jetting should be first on the list.

Cacsrx1, Im' a flatlander forgot about you mountain guys. You would benefit from the cold air kit, it takes clean air from behind the windshield.
 
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cacsrx1 said:
When the vents in the hood are packed with snow how is the motor supposed to breathe? The cold air kit may be a waste of money for the trail rider, but when the snow is over the hood it does help.
Click to expand...


Ill take your word for it as your the one with the long track. :letitsnow
 
Hey thanks for the feed back I think I will hold off on it some more and more tunning before I do it. I was curious to see if it was worth cutting holes in the cab.
 
Just to add to this post, i forgot to mention my airbox was gutted also. Here is my real world experience with this kit, I wish i still had my 1999 with this package to race my 2001 ported because it would be a really close race. Last year i sold it, did not ride it because i bought a 2001 and won the contest from here and MrViper did the work, then i bought a stock 2000 SRX and the race between the 2 of them was no contest the ported motor won, on take off, mid and top end. My 99 beat some big sleds and i know it was faster than my 2000 stock SRX, just wish i could race my old 99 with the 2001 ported.
 
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