help!!! track changin

shavedheadedyamaha

shavedheadedyamaha

New member
Joined
Oct 15, 2007
Messages
261
Age
43
Location
ELKO NV
hey guys i have my sled torn apart... the bearing on the clutch side on the drive shaft should slide off then drop the shaft and slide it out in order to get the track off.... am i missing something... i have the drive shaft loose and the bearing will not slide off that side... there are no set screws in the back side of the bearing... any advise??????
 
I will I could help but I had just the oposite problem when I swapped out longer tracks. The bearing came right out. I know there are posts on this topic. Try the tech pages on this site or due a search. I know I had to take the entire chain case out to get the drive shaft out. Kinda a pain for doing it my first time but I learned alot from doing it.
 
a puller really would not be able to get in there.Remove the bearing cover,the 3 nuts come off and drill the 2 rivets out.This gives you more room to play around and slide the drive shaft out.I had to use a dremel to slowly cut my bearing off cause it wouldn't budge.Why are the setscrews missing or are they.Them damn bearings can be stubburn to remove when they have been on there for a while.It can be really a task and a half,been thru it twice already and the swear words where just flying.#$%&*
 
You should be able to slide the driveshaft towards the clutch side as far as you can, and then put a pry bar in there between the bulkhead and the bearing and pry it off. I've run into a few that were very hard to get off, and that is how I ended up doing it. They took quite a bit of force.
 
word flyin.... if the walls in my shop could talk !! lol... i did the rivet trick and just reriveted it... man when i put the post up i was in a panic... lol but the 151 is in now ive just got to work on the skid.... how much play in the cain case should the cain have if any??? thanks alot guys i would not go to any other site for help on crap
 
cool thanks..... you will not believe this ... after all the crap i went through with the bearing... NOW! the skid has to be put 2 inches foward in the tunnel... some one drilled the suspention back 2 inches... i dont know why???... but i have to drill the rivets and move the tunnel braces foward... back to the stock holes... witch sould not be to much of a problem but for all the people that have pulled and stuffed a skid in to place you know that the srxs supp is heavy!! i dont get why he moved it back and got short extentions when you could just leave it and get the right length rail extentions?? anyone drilled and moved rear skid back like this... and for what reason?
 
Here is some advice use some penetrating oil on the bearing next time and also use some antisieze bore u put the new bearing off so it will not sieze to the shaft.
 
relocating the suspension back is a popular mod. if done properly, it changes the track approach angle to a lesser angle which helps the sled get up on top of the snow. your sig line shows you have a 151 and in post #7, you say that the 151 is in now. are you just swapping tracks or just now stretching to 151? i would highly recommend leaving the skid in the relocated holes. if the previuos owner did his homework, and did the work properly, this makes a night and day difference in deep snow. especially on a nose heavy srx. i have used this method on just about every sled from enticers to vipers and the results have been proof positive.
 
im just now stretching and when i said its in i was refering to the sled back together with the track an all but the skid not in... but hey i just ordered the new extintions 2 inches shorter and now have a set of 136 to 151 for sell because i mounted the ones and it made a mark from the washers... no returns suck..... but yes what you said makes perfect sence and thats why im keeping it moved back and going with shorter extintions.... thanks for the info...
 
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